Storming the castle


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Asia » India » Rajasthan » Jaipur
March 21st 2007
Published: March 21st 2007
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So, this morning I got up at the crack of dawn to storm a castle...on an elephant. That's right folks...after weeks of trailing after elephants, watching them take baths, hunting them down in reserves, and flagging them down in parades...I got to ride on my very own elephant. The price of this elephant ride was the same price of the room I slept for the night (550 rupees). Now, I basically decided to chock this one up to the experience...and it was slightly overrated, but fun. So, once we arrived, we thought it would be nice to look around. Thus, the next 2 hours were spent meandering the castle...roaming through hallways, climbing the towers overlooking spectacular scenery...and dodging the MANY tourists who are now readily apparent all over this particular territory.

And this is what I found interesting. Apparently, while there are many things to see in northern India, I like Southern India much better. However, most tourists know, and come to see North India...because this is where most of the famous stuff is (the Taj Mahal, palaces, etc.) And here they are...French, British, Japanese, etc...but still predominantly very few Americans.

But I got lucky. Staying at my hotel were a couple of US college kids living in Varanasi who are studying Hindi...and so I joined them for this day of storming. As we weaved through the fort and castle, I couldn't help but notice that this was an entirely different experience than the past few weeks. While in the south, I basically don't remember "seeing" anything. And this primarily means that I don't identify the places, as much as the experiences and people. Here, I feel like my itinerary is much more set by the places I need to see before I leave India.

And so, off we went. Our next stop turned into a short but intense hike up the mountain to the next fort where we apparently saw the world's largest cannon. Now, quite admittedly, I don't really have anything in my arsenal of weapon memory to compare it to, but it was QUITE large. Once out of the castle we took a rickshaw back into town and had lunch.

Now, while I may not have discussed many of my meals to date, this one was special. It ended with an ice cream sundae...

Just when I thought the end of my day had come...at 4 PM...I was sitting in my hotel trying to waste time. My lovely guest house host informed me that in 12 minutes there would be the town's "world famous"...guess...just try...I dare you...

That's right...today was the town's world famous PARADE celebrating yet another important holiday! But this time, it apparently was not some rinky dink parade. This time the Maharaja of the city was sponsoring it...and they even reserved a special viewing spot for tourists (apparently so that they either aren't trampled or pickpocketed). So, off I went...literally running to hail a rickshaw...urging him to go faster so that I didn't miss my one and only chance (today) to see a parade honoring the godess. Now, just to keep you updated, and according to my host, there are apparently not so many holidays especially for the goddess...and since this was a rare occurance, I could not possibly miss it. And miss it I did not! As I was dropped off at the gate of the old city, I sped walked the kilometer to the place for tourists...pushing my way through the throngs of indians who were crowded onto the sides of the street. Up a rather dubious looking staircase I found the balcony where the "westerners" had gathered...and, not finding the perfect viewing vantage point, I climbed on top of a concrete wedge to hoist myself over the balcony. (At this point, even I marveled at my determination to see yet another parade.)

And yet, there I was. Perfect spot. And here it came...the bands...the elephants...the horses...the camels...and today there were even OXEN in full regalia. Now in all fairness, this parade WAS different than yesterday's. There were at least 5 bands, 20 elephants, 8 camels, 12 oxen, and dancers. And, right at the end, there was the float of the goddess, which is basically the only way I knew it was over.

So, I found my way out...and off I went in a bike rickshaw to the train station...and here is the thing. Many of you know that I'm hard of hearing...and trying to understand the english here is hard enough...but really..I have NO IDEA what they said. So, here is how the next 12 hours might play out. Either 12 hours from now I will be happily situated in a lovely guesthouse in Jodpur...OR, in 18 hours from now I will be nicely situated in a lovely guest house in Jaiselmeer. Tough call...primarily because there seemed to be a dispute between several men behind the counter as to whether I could or could not extend my ticket from its original destination. But, either way, it is sure to be a fabulous next stop. Sort of like a choose your own adventure.

Sending much love from the North of India...

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21st March 2007

A note
What visions I have of you racing to the parades, sitting atop elephants, and finding yourself upon unmarked trains. Glorious. As are you, my sister.
22nd March 2007

very funny I just met a girl who have been yesterday at the parade (she took the night train) I saw the elephant pictures .....

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