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Published: September 9th 2015
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After a few hours of burning the road down from Manali, we made our way through the popular tourist attraction Rohtang Pass (surprisingly, this time around it had a lot of snow). That was followed with a quick stop for a light breakfast at a dhaba. Soon thereafter, we continued driving through the lush green mountains and as we drove deeper into the valley, these mountains transformed into a barren and rocky landscape. The roads got narrower and dirtier with water streams meandering through. Up until now, my friend and I were busy tripping on music, clicking photographs here and there, making conversations with our driver and sitting as comfortably as it could get when we were caught off-guard. Our senses came alive and we peeped our heads out of the window and stared at the barrenness of the valley with our gazes fixated on the snow capped mountains touching the blue skies. I found myself torn between nostalgia for the familiar (Ladakh) and an urge for the foreign and the unexplored. The photographer in me went on an overdrive instantaneously. As we continued driving into the desolate, murkier, bald valley, we approached the Kunzum Pass at 14,931 feet which separates
As we drove further, the green began to fade and gave way to a rugged terrain.Lahaul from Spiti on either side. Luckily, we were wearing just the right number of clothes to beat the cold since it tends to get very chilly at the Passes (although, we were carrying separate jackets, the weather in such regions is unpredictable). After a brief halt at the Pass, we had officially entered the Spiti valley. Our excitement knew no bounds. The expanse just kept growing bigger and bigger, the valley broader and rugged with every kilometre. Driving up and down the dirt tracks in the desert mountains amidst the huge mountain rise on each side was surreal. The mountains were cloaked in the shadows of the clouds above, simultaneously lit up by the sun.
It was almost four in the afternoon and we hadn't had anything to eat apart from tucking into happy edibles. After a lot of pestering, our driver drove a little faster (we knew there is no way one can drive faster on such terrible roads but the guy did give it a try, sigh!) and finally paid some heed to our mutual cries of hunger. We descended into Losar village, the first in Spiti for 'lunch'. Yay! We quickly satiated our ravenous hunger,
warmed ourselves with a chai and continued our final stretch of the fascinating journey to our hotel (Hotel Spiti Sarai) in Rangrik. Before I proceed further, let me give you a sneak peek into these postcard-perfect villages scattered away in the valley to give you all a better understanding of the pulse of Spiti. These high altitude villages of Spiti Valley are clusters of white washed, mud brick homes huddled together amid green barley fields that arrive like mirages. The best part is when you are meandering through the jagged mountain roads and you suddenly discover a quaint village in the valley below or on the other side of the mountains and wonder if its for real. It's one of the most amazing experiences and almost illusionary.
Rangrik (where we stayed for the night), is the largest village situated right on the bank of the river Spiti and is nine kilometres from the administrative capital, Kaza. Our hotel was very aptly situated in a secluded place far away from all the hoopla with enormous mountains surrounding it in every direction and you could very easily catch a glimpse of the river. We reached our hotel around eight in the
We stared at the barrenness of the valley.night and were given a very warm reception. The staff was very friendly, there was good food and extremely decent accommodation (what more can one ask for after a long demanding journey).
The next morning after a sumptuous breakfast, we started off around ten in the morning to see the
Tabo Monastery which was a drive of roughly about 65 kms from Kaza. These ancient monasteries located atop high mountains are a reminiscent of pre-historic era and form the backbone of Spiti and define its character. Another reason why you should visit Spiti on this account alone. Spiti possesses a very distinctive Buddhist culture similar to that found in the nearby Tibet region. While driving through the picturesque trails and rolling-meadows en route Tabo, we were baffled by some of the most beautiful canyons and the most unusual clay and rock formations along the river bed and in the mountains. The scene was so visually charming and strikingly vivid that it resembled an oil painting. It was outrageously beautiful so much so that I had to pinch myself. The ever changing river Spiti was a close companion, whose gurgling sounds will soothe you in the night and ferocity will
Snow-capped mountains that touch the clear blue skies.awe you in the day time.The continuity of the landscape is only broken by numerous waterfalls and glaciers.
It was around one in the afternoon when we got to the Tabo Monastery which is situated at village Tabo, at an altitude of 3280 metres near the Tibet border. Founded in 996 AD, it is one of the oldest continuously functioning Buddhist monument in India and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Also known as the 'Ajanta and Ellora of the Himalayas', Tabo Monastery is famous for its wall paintings, murals, statue and sculptures. After spending some time at the Gompa and a quick lunch thereafter, we continued our drive for
Dhankar (erstwhile capital of Spiti), a tiny hamlet situated on a steep cliff at an altitude of 3870 metres (12,800 feet), perched high above the confluence of the Spiti and Pin river. The landscape around Dhankar is grandiose and unlike anything that I ever saw before. It was four in the afternoon when we finally parked ourselves a little further off from our homestay, our guide's home. His wife and him (not to forget their tiny little daughter) were our hosts for the night.
Now this is the part
that I had been most looking forward to. Traditional homestays provide a unique opportunity to get acquainted with Spitian customs, art forms, cuisine and their way of life. It is perhaps one of the best ways to get an insight and to delve into the lives of these hard-working people who have made these desolate mountains their home for decades and the intimate relationship they share with their land. Here, most accommodations are run by locals who not only let out rooms to tourists at affordable prices but also open up their hearts and lives to you. These homestays are definitely not like your deluxe hotel rooms but they come with hygienic bedding and traditional Spitian dry eco toilets (so since I hadn't a clue, my bubble burst when I saw the toilet for the first time. There was no toilet per se. There was just a small pit dug out of the mud but to my utter relief, there was a separate bath area which was pretty decent. Having said this, I must add here that the hospitality and the warmth of the families more than makes up for any deficiencies in the facilities). Also, homestays allow you to
experiment with some authentic local food and even their alcohol or
Arak (in their local language). That depends on how well a camaraderie you develop with the locals :D.
Due to paucity of time, we decided that we do the Dhankar Lake before the sun went down. It took us a little more than an hour of trekking to reach the placid, azure blue lake of Dhankar conspicuously hidden in the middle of the hills. The way up the narrow trail wasn't that difficult but perhaps the thin air made it arduous. I caught my first chill here. Plus, there were pebbles scattered all around and it was very risky walking on those loose pebbles. I remember more than half the way through, I was on the verge of giving up but the desire to see the lake was so overpowering that I made it through. Besides, we had come this far and there was no way we were going to go back. The moment we caught the first glimpse of the lake from afar, all that weariness and fatigue evaporated like there was none whatsoever. We ran towards the lake like someone had brought us back alive from
our grave. The lake was a kaleidoscope of colour, blue and green surrounded by the barren hills from all sides forming their reflection into the clear waters of the lake. It was a perfect site for some idyllic camping. Beyond the river valley, the snow-capped peaks of Himalayas were clearly visible painting a beautiful picture.
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