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After arriving in Amritsar early in the morning, we made our way to the Golden Temple and were quickly hurried into a side door for the accommodation here. The Golden Temple gives free accommodation to all, irrespective of colour, religion, etc. It’s a huge accommodation block that sleeps many every evening. It’s incredibly charitable. They obviously have one specific room just for tourists and it consists of many beds all pushed together. It’s like one giant bed. It reminds me of the children’s song that goes along the lines of ‘there were ten in the bed and the little one said “roll over, roll over”’. I’m glad I’m somewhere in the middle as I imagine I’d be pushed overboard if I wasn’t! Last night the room was so full that virtually every supposed section for one person was filled with at least two and the floor was like a sea of bodies. A tight fisted traveller looking for free board tucked into every nook and cranny. It’s been a good experience though, staying here, as instantly I met people that yet again, I can move onto the next step with and many people to face the crowds of the free dinner
hall with and the harassment in the temple.
Speaking of the harassment in the temple, every step we take we get children coming up wanting to shake our hands, people wanting to know our names, where we’re from, what we’re doing. Obviously this is often in bizarre English like ‘from which country do you belong?’ or ‘what age do you have?’. At first it’s quite charming, but after a while you get sick of having an entourage of Indians, following your every step. I know as a foreigner you get it everywhere in India, but here it seems especially relentless. Even with the headscarf wrapped around my head and clothes that make me slightly blend in, I’m still spotted from afar. It’s like they have a radar! At one point we were joined whilst sitting at the waters edge in the temple and the numbers slowly went up and up of Indians gathering around to listen to the conversation or ask for photos. Late at night I tried to escape it by going by myself and avoiding eye contact and even then they spotted me, but I was a little naughty and pretended I didn’t speak English and just
carried on walking! A little white lie doesn’t count, right?
Luckily we’re barely noticed in the food hall as the food is clearly more of a priority than trying to get in a conversation with a foreigner! I’ve been blown away by the efficiency of this place when it comes to the food. They take in everyone that comes along and feed them a real hearty and delicious meal for free. It’s like a school canteen, you get your plate from one guy, bowl from another and spoon from yet another. You then file into a hall where you all sit on the floor in rows, hundreds of people at a time and guys come around slapping endless amounts of dhal, chapattis, rice pudding, curry sauce and rice onto your plate. I’ve seen where they cook it and it’s in giant pots that look more like bathtubs than cooking utensils. This is all done like clockwork and served 24/7. Quick in, quick out.
At the busiest times it’s pretty funny how they deal with the washing up. You give you spoon to one of the delegated guys, then your plate to one of the tens of others. They
literally throw them at each other down a line then pelt them into this giant pot, often missing and hitting the guy that stands behind, specifically for this reason, trying to catch the strays and arrange them neatly. The poor guy must leave with so many bruises each night. These pots full of arranged plates then gets carried to the wash station which are washed by an army of volunteers, and I mean an army. There must have been over a hundred at the wash stations at lunchtime today. It’s insane but so incredibly inspiring. Despite this countries appeared lack of organisation and efficiency, it seems that in some places it is possible. Even if you’re not that interested in seeing the beautiful Golden Temple (which you’d be insane to not want to see), at least come for this unique culinary experience.
Speaking of the Golden Temple, I’ve been saving the best until last. It really is a temple to blow you away. It’s particularly crowded, even for India and it’s billions of inhabitants, but totally worth the visit, even if you’re a crowdophobe like me. I strolled in at different times of the day to really absorb it
and see it at different times to witness how it changes with the movement of the direction of the light. At night it’s particularly stunning as it’s lit up by lights and the reflection with it’s golden hues on the pool surrounding it is just so beautiful. The floor is entirely made from white and black marble (which scorches the soles of your feet during the day) and then there’s the beautiful temple in the middle in all its golden glory. It’s such a contrast and eye catching that it’s hard for you to not be captured by it and fall in love with the sight. All day long there is music playing and streams of Sikh pilgrims relaxing at the waters edge, giving their offerings, praying, etc. Yet again, a place of spiritual magnificence where you can feel it in the air.
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neeraj
non-member comment
Welcom to Asr
hi jessica! m frm Amritsar nw moved 2 other part of punjab thou! however , its very nicely drafted piece on GT. what a lovely pics 2 captured! as i gues u wil hail 2 now jalianwala bagh and then wagah border! if its not in you initiatory add it up! Jalianwala bagh is a stone's though your GT accommodation and has very significant importance in India's struggle for freedom and on the same theme you wl visit wagah border which is international zero line between India & Pak. I don't know you read the comments or not but I hope when u wl ever review you previous columns you will find my comments on each of your blog. 1 little request:- i did nt find nything (or probably i overlooked) the transport you took for reaching amritsar. (as u took bus for haridwar and car for rishikesh) ok.. c ya and happy blogging!