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Published: April 19th 2009
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The early morning sun filters gently through the trees, casting crisp shadows that dance on the ground in the gentle breeze. The colors are rich, brilliant - as only the early morning sun can do. A bicycle clatters by, its stack of eggs cartons, stacked two feet high, poised perilously over the rear wheel. A rickshaw driver offers me a ride. But I prefer my own two feet this morning - 'exercise' I say as I indicate my legs. Even though English is probably his third language, after Hindi and Punjabi, he nods in understanding.
A pilgrimage. That's what I'm on. Sort of. For I'm walking from my guesthouse on the northwest side of Amritsar, India, to the famed Golden Temple, holiest site of the Sikh religion. To hear the sounds and see the sights of this bustling city awakening and paying homage in its holy temple.
The Sikh religion was founded by Guru Nanak who lived from 1469 to 1583. He was a monotheist who did not believe in the caste system that was so pervasive in the Punjab region of what today is India and Pakistan. His rebellion against this cultural norm led him on a spiritual
search that covered many miles. That search led him to the belief that no religion or sect or holy book had a monopoly on truth. That the Ultimate Truth is latent in every person. And that through a sincere, selfless, life long Sadhana (practice), Ultimate Truth can be brought to the fore - and lived.
The traffic thickens, the crowds intensify - and everyone is going in the same direction. There can be no mistaking our common intent as we move as a mass toward the heart of the city, where the Sri Harmandar Sahib rests - the Golden Temple and its complex. With the others, I leave my shoes at the shoe check. No shoes, no sandals are permitted into the Temple complex. My feet now tread directly upon the white marble stone as we push forward, toward the entrance. I take an orange bandana as my head covering - a requisite for entry. I wade through the foot bath, cleansing my feet of the city's filth - of all things worldly - and enter the hallowed ground. With the crowd I find my way down the entry stairs and burst upon an absolutely captivating and nearly blinding
scene.
Floating, almost as if by a miracle, the Golden Temple, the Sanctum Sanctorum, rests in the center of the Sarowar, a massive pool - the 'Pool of Nectar'. It's ethereal reflection rests in the water right below it, seeming to support it somehow even as that reflection shifts and shimmers in the pool as the water gently ripples in the morning breeze. The gorgeous gold dome of the Temple rests on the third floor of the marble masterpiece. A narrow causeway, already crowded with the faithful, connects it to the Parkarma, the pillared walkway that surrounds the Pool of Nectar. All around me, those who have just walked in are kneeling before the stunning scene. While even more people pass by, right to left. A prayerful walking meditation along that pillared walkway, around the Pool of Nectar and the Golden Temple. I join in with the clockwise circumambulations. Always clockwise - so the clean hand, the right hand, will always be toward the sacred temple.
The Sikhs are an open minded and open hearted people. I see the Guru Ka Langer, the home away from home for any pilgrim or tourist, no matter their own religious beliefs,
their own heritage, their caste. There, free food is prepared by volunteers who daily feed thousands in shifts in an incredible picture of efficiency and caring. And I see a Niwas where free sleeping space is provided for those same pilgrims . . . and tourists. On a typical weekend there are 100,000 visitors each day, and any who seek food or shelter will be taken care of!
I pass by work crews doing maintenance work and recognize that these are not the usual construction workers one sees so often in India. These also are volunteers. Pilgrims who've come here for a spiritual renewal, then find that renewal not just in meditation and in the splendor and awe of this place, but in serving. Serving food. In working. Working construction. I accept the invitation of a work crew to join them as the take a tea break. And while we share no common language, the smiles exchanged over hot tea - masala chai to be exact - are all the communication that is needed.
I continue on my circumambulation passing holy site after holy site. Watching as the faithful take sacred dips in the Pool of Nectar as
Sikh Guards in full uniform and turban stand by, keeping watch over the piles of clothing and valuables that lie on the walkway by the bathing pilgrims.
As I continue my walk I hear Akhand Path, the non stop recitation of the sacred Sikh text called the Sri Guru Granth Sahab Ji. I pass by a total of twelve chanters all around the walk, each with his following of faithful listeners.
I join the line on the causeway and begin my approach to the Temple. It grows more and more massive with each approaching step. I pass through the entry arch, the Darshni Darwaza, and enter a celestial world of splendor, balance, proportion. And respect. The city's pushing throng has become a reverent gathering of awestruck pilgrims. We slowly move from one space to another in the temple, eye's turned up, wide open, trying to soak up the intricate details that surround us. At the center of the temple we find the Akal Takhat, the Divine Throne, on which lies the sacred scripture of Sikhism, the Sri Guru Granth Sahab Ji. Each day this text is carried to the Temple on a golden palanquin long before the sun
rises. And its reading begins - by the Ragis, the temple musicians, who sing hymns from the holy text. Late at night, again by the golden palanquin, it returns to its safe spot for overnight storage.
I find that there is no set way of worship. No ritual to be followed. No formal procedure. Instead, people kneel to pray when and where they want. To meditate when and where they feel so moved. Some bring offerings, flowers being the most common.
I climb the steep stairs to the next floor and find my quiet corner to listen to the hymns and soak up the emotion of the moment. Then I once again cross the causeway and continue my circumambulations.
I returned to the temple several times over the next few days. For me, sunset was the most impressive time to be there. The shimmering Temple and its golden reflection in the deepening hues of the late day. The gentle lights of the complex illuminating and inspiring. The crowd thinning out as I sit beside the Pool of Nectar and listen again as the musicians of the Temple play, the hymns floating gently across the pool and setting
the mood for this holy place. As I sit listening . . . .
Usually that sentence would be completed with something about how 'my thoughts were carried far away to a peaceful time and place'. But not this time. No, the next sentence is that 'my thoughts moved deeper and deeper within me, searching and seeking. Seeking that intrinsic good that the Sikhs believe each of us has. And embracing it.
Peace.
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Gurinder johal
non-member comment
hari mandir (the temple of god
The Golden temple was established by froth master Guru Ramdass in 1577,It is a place where almost 24hr singing of the hyms is taking place,and 24hr the community kitchen is opened to every one,once you enterd the main gate you are mesmerisd by the stunnig beauty of the temple.There is devine something which makes us mesmerised not the architecture design. Gurinder johal tourist guide 9815643953