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Published: November 28th 2008
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If you have ever wondered where one of India’s most welcoming places might be, I am willing to make a safe bet that Punjab would be close to the top of the list. While traveling in an auto rickshaw our driver assured us that Punjab is India’s friendliest state and so far he’s not been proved wrong. Only a few weeks ago we were in Chandigarh (Punjab’s capital) and our time there was also very warm and friendly and the same if not more can certainly be said of Amritsar. It seems people (and the local government) really care, its nice to see civic pride still exists and especially when it is warranted. Some words I can think of from what we have seen of Punjab include ordered, clean and as mentioned, friendly which are three words that up till now I have not been able to use in the same sentence to describe other parts of India - Punjab has certainly won us over.
Our main reason for visiting Amritsar was to see its famous Golden temple and see for ourselves if the stories of Sikh hospitality were really true. They are. Sikhism’s history in India is bloody to
say the least with the assassination of Indira Gandhi being the most recent example but it seems that the hardships the Sikhs have endured have only made them more determined to prove their all embracing philosophy. The religion was founded by Guru Nanak who among other things strongly believed in equality, and not only within religion but also amongst men and women. However, since its beginnings in the 15h century Sikhism has faced opposition and as noted has resulted in bloodshed as recently as 1984 when Sikh - Hindu riots caused the deaths of nearly 3000 Indians (mostly Sikhs). The riots resulted after Sikh demands for an independent state were quashed and heavily (unnecessarily some would argue) quelled when the then prime minister Indira Gandhi sent in the Army. Although she clearly hadn’t thought it through because her body guards were Sikh and in retaliation assassinated her but not before many had died and Hindu/Sikh relations in the region were so bad that many wives wouldn’t allow their Sikh husbands to leave the house for fear of becoming widows. And yet Sikhs remain tolerant and welcoming and though they don’t have their own independent state they can stand proud with
the knowledge that India’s current prime minister is himself, a Sikh. Not bad when Sikhism only accounts for less than 2% of India’s population (according to Lonely Planet).
Today, relations amongst the regions myriad religions are much more amicable, though its clear from various publications that I have seen that Sikhs are unwilling to forget their past. History as always, dies hard. Thankfully though there doesn’t appear to be any obvious animosity and its lack is most apparent at the Golden temple. The temple is to Sikhs as Mecca is to Muslims, however the Golden temple unlike some other holy places has a very very open-door policy. When we arrived we were welcomed with beaming smiles and our only requirement was to cover our heads (head scarves were provided - at no cost!), to remove our shoes and wash our hands and feet. Not too much to ask, especially when in return, if we wanted, we could eat and sleep at the temple for free. As it was we decided to take lunch at the temple, which for a free feed was surprisingly good and wholesome. Apparently the practice of feeding ones guests is universal throughout Sikh temples and
is regarded as a symbol of the religions inclusive beliefs. It is said that nearly 40,000 pilgrims are fed each day at the Golden temple alone. It was incredible watching them prepare the food and serve it with such precision and speed - its was a production line of incredible efficiency that has made me inclined to write to the government and ask that they adopt similar procedures within the rail ticketing and postal offices. India would be a much better place if they did.
As for the temple. Well, it is certainly deserving of every compliment it receives and is true to its name. If you have ever wondered where the most golden building in India is,.. you get the Idea. Although covering a temple in gold might appear decadent and gawdy it really doesn’t feel like it, maybe its because the atmosphere within the temples grounds are so peaceful and humbling that any sense of decadence or over-the-top showiness doesn’t even seem a consideration? Or maybe its just because it really does look beautiful? It really is spectacular and well worth both day and night-time visits and why not when it’s all free? There also aren’t that
many other major attractions in Amritsar apart from the border closing ceremony with Pakistan which is so bizarrely unique it can’t be missed. This too is free although we did have to pay to get there.
The border at Attari is the only one between India and Pakistan, it is closed at sun down each day with such spectacle that seating has been built especially for viewing audiences from both nations. The closing ceremony has been so well documented on TV and in books that we had to see it for ourselves. We arrived at about 4pm and the place was already packed and not just with a few tourists and patriotic Indians and Pakistan's but with literaly hundreds of people. It was noticeable how many more Indians there were when we arrived but by the time things kicked off the Pakistani side was looking healthier although still nowhere near as full and raucous as the Indian side. As it began members of the audience marched up to the borders gate and proudly waved their nations flags at each other before returning to the crowd and stirring up national sentiment. Things then proceeded with national songs and jeering and
cheering from both sides while soldiers marched up to each and performed bizarre rituals including what seemed like staring each other out and seeing who could kick the highest - at one point it looked as if an Indian soldier had clipped his Pakistani counterpart. I thought we had an international incident on our hands but it seemed to have been taken in humour and the stern looks on each soldiers face softened as they returned to their positions. Both audiences by this point were in full flow and battling to drown the other out with chants of ‘Pakistan’ rivaling the chants of ‘Hindustan’ that were also being encouraged by loud speaker wielding advocates. Both sides had the same arsenals, soldiers, passionate audiences, flags and loud speakers, by half way it seemed like a stand off between the two nations in this bizarre ceremony, that is, until the wailing contest. Both sides began by wailing into a microphone with the loser being decided by the one who stopped first after running out of breath. Each time the Pakistan side won, outlasting the Indians by at least 10 or 12 seconds. I thought this would be seen as a national disgrace
but instead it just encouraged the Indian audience to shout and sing louder as if in compensation. It was truly incredible to watch and be a part of, the whole ceremony lasted nearly an hour and was full of the same fervour and vigor at its end as there was when it began, it rivaled almost any music concert I have ever been to in terms of energy and passion.
And then the sun set and the gate separating the two countries was locked and everyone went home and that was it. The end. Until the next day. It left me wondering why can’t wars be fought like this? There would be a hell of lot less bloodshed and borders and religious disputes could be just decided by who could raise the highest decibels. Maybe we could pitch George Bush against Osama, It would be a tight match I reckon. If things were only that simple? Why the Indians and Pakistani’s do this or who’s idea it was I don’t know but in a way it seems like a good thing. Somehow it seemed to soften the tension between the two countries albeit in a strange and perhaps a
little confusing and bizarre way and at least it’s better than throwing nukes at each other. I say keep it up. Anyone who can turn a seemingly ordinary and mundane daily process into a huge event can’t be bad and if nothing else it gives everyone something to do for a few hours.
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