Advertisement
Published: August 20th 2023
Edit Blog Post
Dalhousie - Dharamshala / Mcleodganj - Amritsar
Amritsar
Day-5: Dharamshala to Amritsar.
Goodbye to Himalayan Heavens and back to hustle, bustle and heat of plains!
Fortunately it was only February and it was not so hot. I call it mid-season and it is the best time to go to the Himalayas. In winters, cold is a bit too much in the mountains, in summer, temperature is certainly enjoyable in hills, but when you come back, you pay back with interest! We had experienced it during the Sikkim tour.
Started from Dharamshala after breakfast and reached Amritsar for late lunch. Again via Pathankot.
Day-5: Evening: Visit to Gobindgadh Fort
Day-6: Morning: Shopping; Afternoon/Evening: Attari Border; Dinner: Sadda Pind
Day-7: Morning: Free; Afternoon: Jalianwala baug; Evening: Golden Temple
Day-8: Early morning: Departure (as per schedule).
It appears from the above that the Amritsar itinerary was not most time-effective. One entire morning was kept for shopping and another morning was totally free. But, there is a reason why it has to be
that way. In Gobindgadh fort, there is a light and sound show - possible only in the evening - although not very khaas. Visit to Attari border is possible only after 4.00 pm. And Golden Temple must be visited in day-light as well as after dark - for lighting effects.
Day-5: Gobindgadh Fort:
In fact it is not a fort in its true sense. Although its construction is like a fort, it was not constructed to protect any city/settlement or for war purposes. It was used as an armory. For storage of arms and ammunition. Light and sound show included typical bhangra dance.
There is a ‘Pagdi Museum’ which has on display many different types of Sikh Pagdi (Turban). I have tried to take photos of all pagdis on display, however, due to space and lighting constraints, I was not able to capture the names of all the types of turbans (they were not displayed in the right place). It was certainly interesting. Didn’t know of so many varieties! The visit was included in the tour plan.
Day-6:
Morning: SHOPPING!!!
The whole group was starved of shopping for the last five days. Aaje Jeevan Dhanya Thayu! Life was blessed today!!
To and from the marketplace was possible only by auto rickshaw. Rickshaws were arranged by the tour manager - on payment basis. Everybody reached the market at 9.00 on the dot! One can be late for sightseeing but not for shopping!! Very few shops had opened at that hour!!! Early birds (shopkeepers) did the business. Embroidery works (fulkari) - dresses, showls, jackets, woolens and leather chappals / sandals are the specialty items of Amritsar. Aam Paapad (candy-like thing) and masalas are also popular. We also contributed to the economy of Amritsar.
Afternoon, start for Attari (aka Wagah) border for ‘Beating the Retreat Ceremony’. Attari is the village on the Indian side and Wagah is on the Pakistan side. The border is about 25 Km (45 min drive) from the city. It is 17 Km from Lahore. Entry to the show is free and although the show starts at 5 pm (varies with season), it is advisable to take a seat by 4 o’clock as sitting is on a
first-come-first-served basis. There is a huge double storied parking space and hundreds of bus-loads of tourists visit every day. The stadium on the Indian side is much bigger - capacity of 50,000 - than on the other side. And fills up almost every day.
Watching the whole show, lasting for about an hour and a half is a once in a lifetime experience. During the entire parade, a motivator develops tempo in the crowd to shout slogans and towards the end he invites the ladies in the crowd to come to the center and participate. I tried to find videos of this event but could not find any that truly shows the electric atmosphere in the stadium. You have to be there to feel for yourself.
After the Attari border ceremony we went for dinner at a garden restaurant - Sadda Pind (cost Rs. 800/- per person paid by the Kesari). Food was average but the overall experience was good. The night was cold in Amritsar in the open.
Day-7: Jalianwala bagh and Golden Temple
Morning was kept free for those who had not
reached their luggage quota and wanted to contribute further to Amritsar. 2/3rd of the group went for further shopping. Some went for the remaining places not covered in the schedule. We rested.
Jalianwala bagh:
Possible by rickshaw only - not even mini-bus (cars can go but parking is a huge huge problem), arranged by Kesari.
If Britishers deserve eternal hatred, it is for this one place only - the Jalianwala Baug.
Whatever we have read or heard about the incident that took place on 13th April, 1919, we could almost experience still hanging in the air. We had seen the Hindi film,
Sardar Udham - and re-lived the massacre.
The narrow entrance - no possibility of escape - is preserved as it is. The spot from where people were fired upon, the well in which more than a hundred jumped and died and the walls in the nearby houses bearing bullet holes…. Everything is well preserved. Only a small modification, an exit gate is made on one side of the baug.
Golden Temple:
Until you
have visited the Golden Temple, the highest seat of the Sikhs, you may not think of any other monument - other than the Taj Mahal - as the most magnificent structure in India. After visiting Golden Temple, you may have to re-think.
You must visit Golden Temple in day-light (preferably morning) and after dark. In our schedule, it was afternoon - up to late evening. During day-time for its natural colors and under lights for its golden looks.
Most significant was the security arrangement at the temple - totally ABSENT. Photography is allowed - except inside the sanctum sanctorum.
Usually the waiting time in the queue is anywhere between one and four hours on any day. We could reach the site of Granth Sahib in about an hour and a half.
Had tea at the Langar.
For why we must visit Golden Temple after dark, please see the photos.
Day-8: Return Journey
For those traveling ex-Mumbai, departure was at 6 in the morning (end of the tour!).
We
had our flight for 9 pm and so had almost the whole extra day in Amritsar. Checked out of the hotel at 10.
Visited Durgiana Temple and Bada Hanuman (both are close by).
Durgiana Temple is a replica of Golden temple.
And then the Partition museum. Very effective display of the events that took place during partition.
We used auto rickshaws 5 times in Amritsar. Everytime we boarded one, the driver would advise us, without fail, to take care of our purse and mobile. Localities themselves don’t consider Amritsar as a safe place.
Back to Gandhinagar.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.138s; Tpl: 0.012s; cc: 8; qc: 24; dbt: 0.0745s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.1mb