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Published: March 12th 2007
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After Varkala, anything we did was bound to be somewhat of a disappointment. Unfortunately, we decided to do the most expensive activity scheduled on the whole trip: House Boating. In all the guide books and on all the websites, house boating in Kerala’s backwaters are toted as the “chose a fair” while in Kerala. It is the one must see in the whole state, and floating peacefully along on a barge, through meandering canals sounded like an excellent way to spend a day and an evening. So, we headed from Varkala (sadly) on Thursday, on route to Kollam which was the less crowded of backwater tourist places. Upon arrival however, we were persuaded that Allapey, the more active backwater departure point, was the only place where a punting boat (man powered, not stinky or loud or polluting) could be had. So we reserved a boat for the next day and, after getting in writing exactly what was included on the trip, headed by bump buss to Allapey. We stayed at a nice hotel there for cheap and enjoyed some television care of the National Geographic Channel. We were both entranced and learnt all about how the Farrari Factory hand makes the
beautiful new Fiorano 599 (wow that is a gorgeous car and if was a multi millionaire……) and how to stay safe when snowed in on mountain tops. Overall it was very educational viewing.
The next day we headed to our boat to check it out before we paid, and to double check what was included. We met our cook and two punters (three lovely Keralan’s) and set sail. We did, in truth, have a very enjoyable experience, and despite the fact that the thirty minute lunch break turned into two hours, and the many house boats with noisy motor’s going by, and the “all you can drink tea” actually only being two pots due to lack of milk, and the docking right next to a construction yard…..despite all of that we did have a very peaceful trip. So I am going to talk about the good bits as that is how we wish to remember it.
The boats themselves are basic, with a front deck area covered with, what else, palm leaves, and a small bedroom and bathroom off of this. The kitchen is in the back and the two punters steer the boat from both fore
and aft positions. As you can see in the pictures, the canals were very beautiful and looked like lovely places to live, away from the hustle and bustle of Allapey. The punting was a good choice and meant that we simple sat, or lounged, and watched the water go bye and listened to the rustle of the trees. At docking that night we went for a walk and then sat down for supper. The meals were very good and the fish that Carlie got (I said only veg for me) was also delicious (I am becoming more open to fish on this trip). Then, as the hammers stopped for the night (fewwwfff) I beat Carlie at Crib, though not as soundly as before, it was very close, down to two points at the end. We then crawled into our tents to let the lapping water and night crickets lull us to sleep.
Breakfast was basic and we took the ABS (Allapey Backwater Superhighway) returning to port, then onto the train station and to Kochi, the capitol of Kerala. Kochi was nice, as far a cities go, though I am becoming less and less of a city lover in India.
The hotel was nice and clean, and very cheap at only 375Rp’s a night. We found a place that had Keralan traditional theatre, Kathakali, and on the way I went on a mission to find a HDFC Bank, the only kind that gives me money on my TD Debit Card. Unfortunately I was apparently having a dumb dumb day and got there to find out I had left my card bat the hotel. Duuuhhhh! The dance was good though, their facial expressions were amazing and the makeup and costumes were incredibly colorful. The narrator was also very good and helped to explain what all the hand gestured and facial moments meant and also why they never open their mouths on stage (so as not to let the energy out) and why they only wear the long metal finger nails on the left hand (hmmm…can’t remember why that is now).
The next day we took a very long, very hot and very bumpy bus ride through the mountains to Kumily and the Pariyar Wildlife Sanctuary. We arrived very shaken (not stirred) at the bus stand, and with an invitation for lunch on Tuesday with a local family. Our hotel unfortunately
Pop Quiz #2
The last one got a lot of response.....so what are these? hadn’t actually reserved us a room like they had said, so we had to wander down the street, but in the end found a nice hut with bathroom for 300Rp’s, not bad. Today we headed out in a rickshaw to tour the tea and spice plantation, and for an unexpected elephant ride.
The tea plantation was very interesting, and our rickshaw driver/guide-for-the-day walked us around and answered lots of questions, like why they plant the Silver trees with the tea bushes (so that in the rainy season the tea plants don’t get too much rain) and that the women work in the fields and the men in the factory. Then we took a factory tour were we found out all about processing tea. It smelled amazing and there was a new batch of tea leaves (only the tips) starting the Withering Stage (where they lose 20% of their moisture) for the next 24 hours. Then the aptly named Crushing Machines (use your imagination), and the Fermenting Tubes were the tea gets rolled and rolled for two hours. Then it is off to the Firing ovens, where they use the roots of old tea plants to heat the furnace that
bakes the tea leaves, very efficient. Then more crushing machines and finally you have two grades of tea: one fine grain for milk tea, and one course grained for lighter, milk-less tea. “Can I have a milk tea without the milk please?” Sorry, inside joke.
It was all very interesting and heavily scented, and at the end we bought 1.5 Kg’s each to take home (guess what you are all getting for Christmas!). On the way home I got to try driving the rickshaw (don’t worry dad, the driver was next to me the whole time) and got a tour through a local spice garden, speaking of scented places. It was beautiful and full of interesting plants. We saw, smelt and sometimes tasted the following: pepper, cardamom, cloves, vanilla, nutmeg, all spice (which incidentally is not a combination of five spices mixed, but a single plant and seed), rose apples (which, incidentally, don’t look like roses or apples, nor do they taste like them), turmeric, cinnamon, coffee trees, red bananas, cocoa, tamarind, candlestick flowers, foxtails, amaryllis, bird of paradise, bitter gourd, orchids (my favorite), hot peppers and custard apples. Fewffff.
Amazing day already right? Well, to top it
all off, on the way home we were offered the chance to try an elephant ride. We said we wanted to see the place first, to make sure it was a place where the animals were treated well but we didn’t realize that in order to get there and simply ‘see’ the place would be another bone jarring 20 minute ride into the jungle. Once there we liked the place and the workers, plus one of them was playing soccer with a two month old baby elephant, so we signed up. Our ride for the trip was Maria, a 25 year old (yes, same as me) Indian Elephant who was very friendly and loved ear scratches (just like you Lucy!). She took us, along with her trainer, up the jungle path to see coffee plants, pepper plants and lovely views. When we got back we gave her some fruit and more trunk rubs, took some pictures and said a teary goodbye. Maria will always be my first real live elephant and I will always remember her and judge all future elephants against her.
More jarring rickshaw roads later and here I am, typing away and anticipating dinner. Speaking of
Maria
Gram: I heard you wanted a picture of an elephant with a person on it, so I found an elephant and sat on it for you. which…………………………………
xoxo
Sarah
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A. Karen
non-member comment
What a wonderful read!!!!! Pictures are great and I like the fact that they can be viewed while reading your blog. Had a chuckle over your "shaken not stirred" comment. The elephant is a cutie and how lucky are you to have been able to ride it. I have no idea what those little green things are. I am sure someone out there knows. Take care.