Cochin - India

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Cochin, India
26th March 2009

Despite the Commodore sailing the ship at full tilt, we were running late and arrived one and a half hours late into Cochin port. This meant however, that we did not have to get up at the crack of dawn. We enjoyed our leisurely breakfast and found a quiet spot on deck to enjoy the sail in. I never know what to expect when we arrive into a new country, but then I say that what I see is not what I expected! Work that one out if you will. Anyway, we are always pleasantly surprised by the experience.
Cochin was no exception. It was made up of several islands, it is situated at the southern tip of India. It had an old island, an industrial one and a spanking brand new one. Each island was covered in palm trees for as far as the eye could see. A pod of dolphins frolicked around us as we came in. Big birds flew over, which looked like sea eagles. The families of the crew who were getting off or were just in for the day crowded the quayside and were shouting loudly towards their loved ones. For some it had been many months since they had been home. The weather was extremely hot and humid; we were soaking before we set foot on land. We were eager to get our teeth into exploring the area.
Poor Murdo had not been feeling great yesterday. The passengers were oozing with viruses and he was busy fighting them off. We stand no chance on our table as they all have bad chest infections, sore throats and on antibiotics!!! I suppose it will be my turn next-oooh. So we decided to take the easy option and see land by Tuk-Tuk, which meant we could mainly sit down. It was more appealing than their taxi, as it was open air which meant we would enjoy the Indian wind blowing through our hair.
There were set touristy routes, we opted for the tour of the old parts of Fort Cochin. We weren’t interested in the shopping in the new town. Off we set on our bumpy ride. It was fantastic. Somehow we had become desensitised to the death defying driving. Seeing Lorries, busses and a sea of motor bikes heading right for you while being driven on the wrong side of the road and swerving at the last moment seemed to have lost its scary factor. Yet again there appeared to be no right and wrong side of the road. We just took it in our stride, but made sure our arms stayed within the bars of the Tuk Tuk. We didn’t even worry that there were no seatbelts. We found out the next day that these little feisty machines had the right of way! Now we understand how we didn’t end up in hospital, for a change the buses had to give way to us!!!
Our driver was great, friendly, informative and undemanding. He did however insist on taking us to the 7 government tourist shops. After shop no 6 I was sick of looking at carpets and telling them we don’t want one!!!!! We did find a few bits and bobs to buy. The best place, and the one to which we spent the most, was a small co-operative spice company. This was run by 6 Indian housewives who had had a dream of running their own business. They prepared all their products in their houses and were very modest in their approaches to us. Our little basket of goods overflowed and the bill was only $18, we gave them more and they were so appreciative. They invited me for a photo shoot. They have a web site or was it an email address - we will find out when we get the receipt out later. - so if their spices, home made soap,
healing tea or coconut oil is good they will be getting more business from us.
We were taken to several religious institutes of varying denominations, some of which were closed, whist the open ones we explored. There were mini temples along side the roads, about the size of a garage or smaller. The most interesting was the sugar temple because outside it was a huge pile of sugar that stood 3 foot high. Each evening it was cleared ready for the next days offerings. Couldn’t quite understand the significance of offering sugar to the gods, obviously very important to their belifs. Very interesting and quite moving.
We visited a Dutch Palace, which is now a museum,and is full of Indian mythological murals and portraits of former Rajas. A visit to a wooden cathedral built in 1503 was lovely with its highly decorated interior. We were offered to light a candle for our departed loved ones. This we did.
A unique sight was the Chinese fishing nets which were huge constructions of big flat nets lowered and raised by the mechanics of big levers and rocks. They took several men to operate and whether it was just the wrong time of the day or not, but their efforts only produced one or two small fish at a time. They seemed to enjoy their work though.
Our guide was particularly proud of the very old bridge that was still remaining and used only by Tuk-Tuks and motorbikes. Four times we were to traverse it that day. Each time holding our breaths as we crossed the shuggly bridge wondering if it was time for the last straw to break its back!! Apparently it was built by the British which seemed to instil some confidence in the guide that it was indestructible. We weren’t that sure!!! Some day the poor old tired bridge with its pot holes, melted tar and wooden slatted sections will just give up.
As our tour neared ending, I was allowed to drive the contraption, had a wee go which was great fun! till a gun toting policeman started shouting at the driver!!! We went back to the ship to drop off our purchases, freshen up a little and catch our breath. We had only 2 hours left and decided we could not come to India and not let Murdo taste an Indian curry- his favourite food. So off we set again, this time wanting to walk, this was not permitted by the insistent Tuk-Tuk drivers at the gates, who to be fair, only charged a pittance for their services. This morning our tour was 3 hours for $5….nothing to us, we actually had 4½ hours, so gave him $10. This new driver said he would take us to a good restaurant for $1. Despite trying to explain we quite fancied a walk to stretch our legs, we were bundled into his vessel. Well….when we arrived at the restaurant me and Murdo just looked at each other…is this the place we would pick up the dreaded Deli belly tummy bug!! Not because we thought they were dirty people, its just that our tummies weren’t used to their tap water etc. anyway we were convinced that the food was good and authentic, which was what we had asked for, so we decided to go for it. We ordered a veg curry for Murdo and a chicken korma for me and all the usual trimmings. The place itself was basic, red formica chairs and weary mottled tables and tired looking walls. The people were very friendly and eager to please. Our food arrived, which turned out to be the same sauce for each of us, just that mine had chicken and Murdo had mushrooms. To Murdo’s delight it was all delicious, he was thrilled at his experience of sitting with the local people eating his beloved Indian food, lapping up each morsel with his chapattis. I was glad, this meant a lot to him and he showed it by skipping home…that is once we got off the bone shaking Tuk-Tuk!! We did a detour before going back to the ship with this driver, as he took us around other olde worlde regions including a local (non touristy) village, passing a lake this time, the seaside and their cricket club. He was good and well rewarded with the odd bits of local currency we had left - amounting to $1 for the trip to the curry house, $10 for the tour and about a fiver in local notes. A cheaper Conducted tour/Taxi we have never encountered.
Once back in the ship we flaked out on our deck to watch sail away. We were entertained by little fish flying out of the water being pursued by bigger fish being hunted by herons and sea eagles. Fab. Tooo tired to dress up for posh dinner, so went to the buffet for yet another Indian curry…European style this time, a little under spiced, and rubbery chapattis…still it was good. We loved India, bright, colourful, with ladies in bright saris, an abundance of smells, jasmine, spices and a general indescribable ambience. Definitely one place to come back to if we ever came back to this part of the world.

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