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Published: November 9th 2005
Varkala Beach at Sunrise
So sometimes it does pay to get up at 5 a.m.From Diu to Mumbai to Goa to Karnataka, that has been the story of my past few weeks. I worked some sweet dance moves as an extra in a Bollywood movie (for 14 hours!), I experienced the roughly tantalizing effects of a 'famous' head massage on Chowpatty beach in Mumbai, and have been working on doing some uber-relaxation at some Indian beaches. Unfortunately, the weather hasn't exactly been cooperating: the relaxation part is working out but it's been pretty tough to stay dry. A couple of days ago I moved from the idyllic but Westernized Palolem Beach into the small town of Gokarna in Karnataka.
I've been traveling with a few new 'mates', a couple of Aussies and Kiwis. And a couple of days ago we decided we'd had enough of Palolem. So we hopped a train that was so crowded we were crammed up against two doors in the aisle that said Indian Style. So, in other words the only place for us to stand was right by the fragrant train squat toilets. Fortunately, it was only for about an hour. By the time we had stepped off the train, the sky had begun to spit a little bit
The Chowpatty Head Massage?
So Bombay is supposed to be famous for their head massages that you can get on the beach. For me, I walked away a little bit dizzy with a feeling that my head had been rather violated--memorable indeed. of rain. Our next move was to jam into a local bus to take us the 9 km into town. And then we got to switch yet again to an autorickshaw to take us to a place called Kudle Beach. Little did we know we were in for a hair-raising ride on a rather precarious red dirt and slightly washed out road. By this time the rain was beginning to get quite heavy and even under the cover of the rickshaw, rain was seeping in. As we were looking up ahead we saw that the road quickly disentegrated into a jumble of stones and ruts. Francis, the Kiwi guy I was riding with, looked over at me with one of those 'Uh-oh' looks as we approached. No worries though because the rickshaw driver knew his limits, came to a stop, pointed ahead and informed us, "Two minute." What that meant for us however was that we got to strap on our packs and do a little wet and wild hiking in flip-flops. Ah, and I guess I should mention that 'two minutes' in Indian time usually means 5-15 minutes, something like this. So, a 'short time' later we arrived on
The (British) India Gate
Mumbai harbor boasts this Imperial relic that commemorates a visit by King George V in 1911. an deserted beach save the fishermen that were hauling in their catch. Even in the gray flatness of the evening the beach looked quite enchanting.
Next step, a place to sleep, but as we looked around we didn't see much of anything; and the first place we approached looked only like it formerly served as some sort of accomodation but no longer. Eventually though, at the far end of the beach we sloshed upon a nice little place with rooms available. And if you wanna talk about amenities, they've got them! Indian style, flush it yourself by pouring water down it toilets, luxurious bucket showers, and a guarantee of some critterly friends in the evening. But you know what, it is managable, and I don't have any complaints. You'd be surprised how clean you can get with one bucket of water. And when you use the Indian style squat toilets, you not only get bowel relief but also a nice stretch in the process. But you know what the greatest irony is? There may not be any running water, but I don't have to walk more that 100 yards to have 2 places to check my e-mail.
Figure
Purple Haze
The monsoon had a dramatically colorful effect on one of the sunsets we saw at Palolem Beach in Goa. that one out.
Besides with a few sacrifices you get the spectacular benefit of a deserted and noncommercialized beach where you can wake up in the morning and go for a swim all by yourself. Oh, and that means that the weather has gotten better as well--today, hot and sunny, so life is pretty good.
(Update: About 4 days ago I arrived in Mysore where I plan on to set my pack down, grow some roots for more than 5 days, and study some yoga for the next month. More of that and the protestations of my body a little later.)
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kas
non-member comment
I think I might throw up
I just knew you were probably missing me and my famous phrase....so I thought I might throw you a bone! Everything seems to be so breathtaking...you fit in just perfect,huh? I miss you. Your in my prayers. Love you.