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Preface
Kolkata
Life has come to a standstill on return to Kolkata, my hometown. People,city still cherishing for the golden days of the past and unable to switch gear to fast paced present world. The laid back life of people, 70s looking automobiles crawling on the road, old damped buildings, dirty polluted humid air and heat was enough to put me to sleep like Rip Van Winkle. Lack of good cosmopliton culture and growth is still the primary cause behind drawing good investors to the city and hence the quality of life didnot improve much yet.
Yet the city is surviving with its mamoth slow paced population inspite of all the drawbacks. Still, I cannot help but be nostalgic. Still remember the times I used to drop the paper boats as the city gets flooded during monsoon, the narrow lanes where I broken a number of window glasses playing football. The city is pasionate about football and bitter rivalry between Mohun Bagan and Easter Bengal football clubs, innumerable festivals and 70's-80's songs.
I started to lose much of the creativity and passion and got addicted to the slow tempo, going to office and dozing off
after consuming volume of rice and fish curry. Then one fine lazy and sweaty summer afternoon, I was called for a duty and asked to head to country capital, Delhi for business meetings with client. The plan to head North to Himalayan mountains looked feasible which I had in mind since I move to Kolkata from South India. But I have to act clever,agile and graceful in squeezing out the time to head to hills in the middle bypassing the watchful eyes and security of the associates.
Business Plan of Wicked Traveller, the implentation begins
23rd April 2008 I was awake like Phantom in the night and giving final touches to my imaginary painting of travel plan till 3 am as I watched Chelsea FC thrash Liverpool FC and knocked them over Champions League. As dawn broke my yellow cab headed to Kolkata Airport, I am a lot relieved that I do not have to see the sleeping city for a couple of weeks atleast. The flight service was excellent at Kingfisher Airlines and as I closed to landing at Delhi airport I had a good view of the distant Himalayan mountain range which
seemed to invite me for a big welcome hug with open arms. I smiled to myself and remained in that state for a while but engrossed state was interrupted abruptly as one of the fellow passenger with an attendant brushed passed me with luggage to move out. It didnot take much time to recognise who the celebrity was. It was Kumar Shanu,the big top Bollywood singer. As he marched out of the airport he gave a villanous smile and disappeared before the fans could catch him there.
Gurgaon Take 1 Delhi Gurgaon highway has changed a lot. The unfinished bridges and overbridges with 3 by 3 roads are now in action and one can see absolute urban 24 storyed multiplex and office places and futuristic corporate buildings on either sides of the road. Felt like we have entered in science fiction movie. The temperature outside was around 45 degree celcius. It was dry heat and dusty much different from the weather at Kolkata where it was more humid. The strong dry hot breeze whispered in my ears an idea and that established the missing the connections of how to implement the trip to hills.
I reached my guestroom
for my company which was located at posh location at Gurgaon. It was on one of the 3 bedroom penthouse appartment room in a tower inside a big housing complex. The rooms were well furnished with all modern facilities and 5 star service. The view from my balcony was awsome as appartment was located exaclty across the newly constructed Shopping Mall, Gurgaon Center.
Delhi Metro Railways is laying the tracks on the main road in between my place and the shopping mall. Life has changed overnight!
Soon my client called me and I had to head to workspace and got engaged with project activity for rest of the day.In the night I just roamed around the shopping malls DT and Metropoliton before retiring for the day.
24th April 2008
Hit hard by dose of inflation Office as usual nothing special.Early morning US calls and again the same in the evening and associates are pacy and quick worker and this posed a possible threat to travel plans. I was looking for an opportunity to escape. The workspace was state of art and food at office had all the varieties. It was amazing place to work but
it was not the reason I had come to Delhi.
Friday, evening I caught up with Bhaskar, my Gurgaon link(remember him from my Golden Triangle trip) but disappointed that we had our dinner with Dosa( 65 rupees), the most disgusting and most expensive I ever had! I guess I better trust McDonalds in future rather than the this piece of shit.
25th April 2008 Friday
bus to Shimla missed! disappointed!!
Friday, I returned from office so tired at 6pm that I head straight to TGI Friday and consumed a big lump of Mexican Lamb Rib Chops and just chilled in there. I wanted to head to hillstation of Shimla for weekend but I managed to spend some more time at the bar and head to room instead.
So Shimla trip got cancelled much to my dislikings.
26th April 2008 Saturday
Delhi By Night
Practically slept the whole day.
Bhaskar had planned to book car to drive round the city of Delhi but he turned out to tired of the past one week at office. I guess besides the office duties the family responsibilities also taking a toll in his roaming spirits. Lucky
for me Saurav turned up in the evening.
We shared a nice Italian Pizza at Sbarro and then decided to book tickets for Manali for next weekend. Last time I travelled round Delhi was during the daytime and visited the tourist spots. I wanted to experience the city during the night. Saurav and I cruised pass on an highway leading to Delhi in search of Himachal Bhavan to book bus tickets but we reached wrong location with lot many locals giving wrong directions. We ended up making rounds around the Connaught Place and central 5 star hotels in New Delhi but didnot manage to find Himachal Bhawan.There were some interesting sites as we drove like we noticed two sardars at around 12 in the night sitting on break down car which was excorted by mobilising truck! We halted for a break and walked down the pavements and relaxed a bit by Taj Palace Hotel,Delhi. We continued with our random roam and managed to head towards South X before Defence Colony. It was on way we met up with some hot looking girls on car who taunted us for a night race. But we decided not to as our bike was
not powerful enough so we just ignored them and halted at Moti Mahal Deluxe restaurant.
Oh! Wah! Paneer Butter Massala! It was 10:30 in the night and not much people around but when we entered Moti Mahal Deluxe restaurant there we were in for surprise!
The place was packed. Saturday live gazzal(slow melodious songs in urdu/hindi) was going on and the ambiance was fantastic reminded me of Delhi of the past. I ordered Paneer Butter Massala and Roti while Saurav opted for north indian chicken dish. It was undoubtedly the best paneer butter massala I ever tasted my whole life. It was soft,juicy,tangy and mouth watering. I make the dish at home but I can never match this taste!
Jhoom! Jhoom! Delhi Metro and Paratha at Chandni Chowk Sunday, afternoon I got in a shared Safari from Ifkko Chawk,Gurgaon till Karol Bagh. From where I boarded the Metro Rail. It was an experience. People in Kolkata were prowd of the metro rail service since it was the only one present in the nation before this but with the quality of the metro service in delhi and network it will make great Kolkata metro
bow down its prestige in shame. I boarded the train for Indraprastha and got down at Rajeev Chawk near CP and changed train for Vishwavidyalaya(University) and got down at Kashmere Gate. The Inter State bus terminal was exactly opposite the metro station. Most of the tickets for the AC Volvo were booked. Just two seats were remaining at back for the coming Thursday. I was overjoyed. At Delhi, I came to know that on my return day to Kolkata i.e on Friday there is going to be bandh so can reschedule my flight back to Sunday and make trip to Manali easily if I leave Thursday evening from delhi. I boarded the metro again and got down at Chandni Chowk station. After passing by the messy and dirty small lanes by Red Fort and Gurdwara I got in to the Paratha Wali galli to taste the world famous parathas(Indian fried breads) there. The parathas had so many varieties like stuffed peas,mixed vegetable,paneer,bananas!!... each tasted unique in each way. I called up my Croatian travel buddy and local Delhi mate Gunish Sukhija thought of potential meet but he was on different part of city I couldnot catch him up.
As sun set on distant horizon I hit back to Gurgaon. I was thrilled to find there was a live DJ show and fire juggling and magic show going on at Gurgaon shopping mall. But this time around I bought Nokia N series mobile with 5 mp camera for Manali, as I need something handy and easy to use other than the heavy and bulky camera.
May 1,2008 Thursday
Switch to Plan B...instinctive traveller's dark side
I was siting at pizza joint near Inter State Bus Terminal (ISBT) and having a pepporoni pizza at Dominos Pizza waiting for the bus to Manali and was recalling all that happend last week.The week was really troubling for me as I faced a major hurdle to travel. Firstly, I am yet to book a return ticket to Delhi from Manali and checked over internet there were no tickets available for AC Volvo. I managed to book in a deluxe non ac bus instead after lot of struggle and surfing the internet. But the major challenges was firstly, with daily projects calls and meetings with client and associated persons at US from early morning to night with me not able
to follow or grasp the work at office I was at fix as how to squeeze the time out. There was another reason for my worry. I had expected I will get an off for May 1,2008 on occasion of labour day and also Friday May 2,2008 being return day and since there is a bandh on Kolkata that day I can easily reschedule the flight for next Monday. But there was no holiday for me on 1st and I got to know that I have to stay next week as well at Gurgaon with Friday also, so I cannot skip office any day.
Last wednesday, I acted realy quick and started to work on getting the holiday for Friday. On thursday, I felt a little ill with some blood coming out of my nose and I followed it up and emphasized that I am seriously ill and chocking. So, I left early from office and picked up my bags and quickly change of clothes got hold of the office cab and head to bus terminal. It was now or never for me and I know I am a nasty and desperate traveller.
The Actual journey begins...
Karnal,Panipat The bus was awsome flocked by honeymooners and I got a sit at the end row with a middle aged person who was working for a Hydro electric plant as an employement engagememt manage near Manali. He suggested some good hotels and also places to visit around Manali. The bus sped past Sonipat, and halted for dinner buffet on highway just crossing Panipat. The other buses going towards Dharmsala and filled with Chinese tourists. Panipat city, the legedary battlefield where three epic battles were fought was believed to be built by Pandavas ( as in mentioned in Hindu epic of Mahabharata). The the most significant was the first battle of Panipat which was fought between Ibrahim Lodi,the Afghan Sultan of Delhi and Babur, the first Mughal ruler of India which Babur won leading to the foundation of Mughal rule in India.
After crossing Karnal, we reached Kurukhestra. It was another epic battleground mentioned in Mahabharata fought between kauravas and pandavas where during the battle Arjun was taught by Lord Krishna the teachings of Bhagabat Geeta, the most sacred text of Hiduism.
May 2,Friday
Manali, Hadimba Temple, Vaishist, Solang Nullah
Manali I peeped through the
bus as early morning sunlight broke my sleep and I could see the view of distant mountains round the corner of the small old buildings of Kullu town of Himachal Pradesh. It was around 11:00 am I finally reached Manali bus station. The bus driver introduced me to a local auto rickshaw who took a hotel just off the main mall road of Manali. The room was small but sweet with lot of wooden furniture. One european backpacking couple just checkout so that I had opportunity to check in.
The city was significantly influenced by bandh and practically the marketplace was shut down. The major restaurants also were closed. Luckily I found an Internet Cafe up road from mall with an attached german bakery. I got the map downloaded for all possible destinations around. They also helped me with the possible bike rent shops. As I walked down off the mall rood past by my hotel down towards private bus stand I noticed the town is full of restaurants and one can possibly find absolute all variety of cuisine of India Gujrati,Jain,Bengali and even Andhra! Finally I found the Raju mechanic's shop who was busy attending one Israeli hippie and
repairing his speed meter of modified Royal Enfield bike. I had a look of all the bikes around but all looked in pretty thrashed condition.I even tried hands on with the monster bikes but I somehow felt uncomfortable driving them up the mountains. If I drive someday and go for Leh-Manali trip it will be one of my own heavy powered ones not one of these as those cannot be trusted. I chose a superlight weight Yamaha RX100. It made sound and moved at snail pace but who cares as anyways it is difficult to drive in high speed around the mountain. But it had many other problems like the kick didnot have cushion it hits ur leg and hurts most, it gears are hard to shift and most importantly didnot have headlights! I didnot check them at start and realised when it was all too late to replace them.
Hadimba Temple I drove back up the mall road checking if any restaurant is open on bandh struck day. To my agony, there was none. On one of the corners of the winding turns up the road to Hadimba Temple just before Club House I noticed one secluded
restaurant off road. I just dropped in to find its a Italian open air cafe. It is run by Indian lady despite the name Johnson's Cafe. Two white dirty hippies and an American family were only present at a rather well decorated open air cafe. Food was really good and the sliced baked lamb with Mojito was enough to refresh me.
I drove up and paid a visit to Hadimba temple amidst wooden forest of deodar. It was a pyramidal temple rather than the tipical other Hindu temples found in the country. It has four-tiered Pagoda shaped roof and the doorway is carved with legendary figures and symbols.
Vashist The sky was clear. Weather was cool 20 degrees, crystal water flowing down the stream as I gazed at the beauty of nature each turn down the hill driving. I took a turn just before Manali and crossed a narrow bridge over the river to reach the other side of mountain where I started ascended up and halted at junction of road to Vashist and Rohtang just after the numerous bike lend cum repair shops. It was late in afternoon so I deicided not to take risk trying for
long Rohtang route today but instead visit Vashist village and may try out taking a bath at hot water springs. It didnot take much time to reach Vashist. At the footsteps up the Vashist village, I could see the flee market up the hill. Wait a minute! the place looked so similar to somewhere I have been in past. Oh! how can I forget. It was a carbon copy of Fort Cochin,Kerala and Anjuna Flea market of goa. The same kind of shops on either side of the road selling all Indian ornaments,handicrafts and colored clothes. Well there was minor difference of course! There were more shops dedicated for Israelis than
other touristers. I reached the temple and found again this to be again a pyramidal one and is dedicated to Vashist Muni. There is another temple of Lord Rama adjacent to it for which one has to climb up a few steps. The temples always have a white skinned "sadhu" (allegdly fake and stonned) sitting at the corner uninterested with the people around. I met with one german hippie-couple from south Germany bordering Switzerland. I got a feel they came in search of some cannabis rather than travel. I
got inside the temple the bathing complex of Vashist. It was nice to find there were two seperate bathing complex for gents and ladies for hot sulphur water bath and also three taps running outside open in public for washing purpose also. The water was very hot and once can actually boil rice in it.
I just cleaned up my face and sponged my body. It gave me much relaxing and comfortable feeling. So relaxed that I spend some more time in there and help taking picture for Indian honeymooner touristers and wasting time around studying them. But I felt realy disappointed when I tried to talk to one european salesman there enquiring about the skiiing zone and equipements if can be taken for rent. I bought one local Himachali cap and took some snap with snake charmer with a python round his shoulder before deciding it was
enough and I should move on.
overhead cable river crossing I reached down the hill and took the diversion towards Rohtang this time. The road virtually was not existant as it almost reached the banks of the Beas river virtually covered white rocks and pebbles. I went down for some
adventure sports by the beas river. It was really exciting as I did an overhead cable extension river crossing. The local conductor actually made me hang in the middle of river and jump. As my toes touched the gust of swirling white water it chilled my spine and sparked my senses. I am alive!
It was late afternoon and I tried to speed the vehicle to my speeding best but as phrase says - "you cannot make a donkey run like a horse" I was helpless as poor little thing crawled like an alligator on land! On way I picked up a kid not more than 8 years old who was asking for lift on way back from school. He gave directions and guided me towards Solang valley. The road not to mention at some turns up Solang Nullah, a few kilometers before on the hills didnot exist at all and I had to ask the passers by whether I am going in right direction.
Solang Nullah Paragliding, Rock Climbing and Horse Riding Solang Nullah was amazing! Lush green plain land where the horse was grazing. Some paragliders were coming down from the top of the
hill at the alpine background where the setting sun rays were fading away. On the other side lies the snow clad cliffs where sun just started to hide behind the colors were changing with passing moments. As I galloped my way up the hill like a knight on the a white horse(which I borrowed for a while) I watched the snow covered cliffs change colors from white to pink to orange as if some painting them from pallette full of colors. On the top I found a lot many people young and old, men and women were waiting for their turn to take off as the ground men were readying the parachutes on ground. I saw lot many people were waiting and not taking. I saw one successful take off and three unsuccessful ones. Most were no ready to take the risk of a possible false start and accident. The last three before were horrible take offs. One Indian lady a bit on plumb in late 40 s were hurried by the groundmen for take off. Much to our horror trhe parachute didnot open properly for her and she couldnot run in full speed and she fell crumbling to the
ground. The wind was blowing from the top of the hill through the alpine forest instead of one coming down from bottom so wind direction was not right for take off. For me it was now or never belief and I will do it no matter anyone tries to stop me. One young,slim,fair and short himachali paragliding trainer turned up and provided me with guidance,help regarding flight and lifted my moral boost. Lot many people started to head back even without trying. I was waiting patiently and when my turn came I just ran,ran and ran....like a free bird and took off. The moment of my life has arrived and I am flying. Truly I am flying! just attached strings and there is nothing between me and sweet little air. I went on making rounds the hills on top of the valley down. I looked at the hills,at streams, at the clouds at the trees, at the microscopic people down and galloping horses. I wanted the moment to last forever and it was such an lifetime experience I cannot explain to anyone. I landed a few minutes later. I again got back to my obedient horse and went for an
excursion round the valley. The backside of the Solang Nullah was rocky and there were all white colored pebbles and rocks around and small narrow non existant stream flowed with lot of pressure. The place was a popular location for Bollywood movies where movies like "Krissh", "Sahibaan" was sought. There was a crossing on the rugged terrain where heard of sheeps and lambs had blocked the way. I got down to clear the sheeps to proceed further. I noticed a waterfall and got down to have a close to at the place. I crossed one a suspension bridge and climbed up the stone steps which lie admist the stone chunks on either side. On reaching the top I found out that the water is from the water fall was striking head of an isolated rock(which was auspicious one to Hindus as they consider it to be allias of great Lord Shiva) called Anjali Mahadev. There were was a series of idols semicircling the place where climbing was prohibitted.
Ride back to Manali in dark When I reached back Solang it was dark and I didnot want to risk driving back alone in dark. Luckily, the Ravi,the paragliding guide
helped me as he will drive my bike back to Manali. Before Palchan bridge, it was completely dark and our bike was following a scooter driven by one of his co worker which showed us light. But alas! the scooter ran out of fuel in middle! Ravi, like an expert switched on his mobile and with that little mobile light drove our motor bike of 100cc and without headlight in the hills to his village. There he found enough petrol to get the scooter started for his friend. The villagers were boozing bottoms up and they even offered me their special rice beer. On way back we hit the shortcut route to Manali in dark where he drove past the apple orchards.
Manali by night Take 1 It was 8 pm when we finally arrived at Mall Road, Manali. It was packed by tourists and backpackers almost at every corner. Great! bandh was lifted! Some American tout I found trying to approach and lure every foreign tourist he could possibly see at mall to his club assuring of good music and drinks! Just imagine! Well, my newly found friends were enough for party and I was in real
good mood after the paragliding so we decided to go out to chill out. Firstly, we entered one Punjabi restaurant serving freshly prepared tandoori chicked but he didnot allow drinking for an incident a few days back we decided to go for another one. Being localite Ravi took us to one chinese restaurant through the confusing winding alleys inside. We ordered for two chinese chicken dishes, some noodles,tibetan noodle soups and local made Godfather beer. noodle soups was descent but the beer was realy nice. It had a fruity flavor and tasted realy nice. The himachalis I noticed are realy helpful and kind at their heart. Without any personal motive, they helped me with lot of insight about life in Manali, siting examples of glorious life behind, how still Manali lags behind in tourism, how the people and guides donot get enough credit of the effort.
It was around 11 in the night I finally collapsed in my head in motel room senseless.
May 3,Saturday
Kothi,Gulaba,Marhi,Vyash Nullah,Rohtang
I got up late in the morning and realised I am running out of time. I had to change my bike to more powerful one. Yamaha one wont
suffice or survive till Rohtang today. Besides, I had swells on my right leg on frequent hits by metal rod for kick start and I need one bike with working headlights and better gears.
Sadly, when I reached Raju's shop I didnot find the Pulsar bike I had booked in advance and the other alernate bikes standing didnot exite me. Unwillingly, I had to go searching for one. Luckily on Vashist road from Manali I found one repair shop who had Pulsar bike left and I deposited my id card and returned the yamaha bike back to Raju.
My bike roared as I zoomed up the hills and head straight towards Rohtang. On way, I passed by the familiar sites of day before Vashist junction, Beas river crossing and took another turn which seperates road to Solang and Rohtang. At some scissor turn up, I halted a little for renting attractive snow jacket,trouser and boots for the road. The shopkeeper tied the clothes at the back of my bike and took some snaps as I bid goodbye and drove ahead.
The road was much better than I expected. The gentle breeze was blowing and weather was crisp and
sunny like day before. Every turn the nature had its own offering for me to observe. Some places it was barren hills and dirty slanted slopes, with rocky and rugged looks while some places in the hills were absolutely green with its various shades from light green to dark ones. Various mountainous trees standing in full volume of leaves and waving as I moved forward. There were some isolated views of small wooden huts and villagers cutting woods and carrying the same on their backs. It just looked magical. I reached Kothi which was a very picturous village and has a thrilling view of the deep gorge through which the beas swiftly races. It is an an idyllic village, which boasts of a superb view of the deep gorge, and the Beas river rushing through it.
Gulaba I passed by Gulaba where some North Indian tourists were enjoying the picnic. It was just after crossing Gulaba I realized that the snow garments which I had borrowed were no longer tied to back of my bike. I went back 2 kms back and forth but gave up finding the same. I wondered how much I have to pay
for the lost property. I moved on and tried to get the loss of my mind. I crossed Marhi and Rani Nullah which were equally beautiful and with stunning landscape and hills and halted at Rahalla water Falls. Gush of white water was flowing the hills and ran cross our road so basically I had to drive my bike on top of the flowing stream water on hard pebbles. I had to drive carefully else one wrong turn and I am going down the hill and die. But immediately after that I faced one major traffic jam. The cars were virtually stand still and the road had turned narrow. No vehicles were able to move on either side of the mountain and it was like a major blockage created by mindless tourist vehicles. Luckily, I was able to cut through the queue but was greeted by earth and pebbled way up and sharp climbing slope up. I crossed Marhi and on a sharp turn I was greeted with view of fully snow covered mountain right at my footsteps. The depth of snow was so much that at first sight I got an impression it was artificial. I had reached Vaishnu
Nullah. All the tourist cars were parked in here and had created a mess. The narrow road was been shared by snow boards of tourist driven by humans,parked cars,vans and bikes and walking people. In the middle of the road I was waiting for the traffic to move when suddenly I was hit by the freaky, mindless car from front who was trying to back his car. The senseless driver continued to bump and hit my bike from front inspite of repeated shouts and banging on car window! I was about to get down and slap that oldie but lucky for him that he was able to move in right way and escape from my rage. I drove past the spot and crossed the bridge where small temporary restaurant was set up by the river stream flowing down the valley. On crossing the river, the scattered snow was not much visible. I drove the barren mountains again and halted at checkpost where I got to know that road to Rohtang was closed and only traders from Manali to Lahaul were allowed to cross the place.
Rohtang La - Snow Skii, Yak Skii and the road to Sanghrila I
place myself at the corner of the road as I watched the people skii down the mountain pretty dejected that I am not allowed to go to the strategic and mystical Rohtang La. I guess Mountain God heard my prayers and I was blessed with a jeep who arrived in front of me and was asking whether I am interested in going there. He managed to get the permission from the police patrol and rattled up the mountain to Rohtang. I realized that it was virtually impossible to drive bike here through this pavement. Road were very narrow,turns were very sharp and dangerous. There was mud,rocks and ice melt water everywhere. The air was thin and there was lack of enough oxygen to breathe. I realized why going to this place is so dangerous and why it is still not allowed to common people. There was deep layers of snow all around and no sight of human till far end. It was a combination of white and blue and in the midst of these runs the passage to... unknown land of Sanghrila? heaven or hell? Pakistan or Russia or China? Standing on the top of the cliff I realised the
what the mountains were trying to whisper! I belong to no one! On way back, I found much of tourists have left for the day, once I found ideal time and opportunity to try my amateur normal skiing skills and some yak skiing!! On way back, I found that some car got struck at waterfall crossing and tire was dug deep in rocks and knee deep water was flowing on top. Luckily, as I didnot find my trouble while going down the hills. I clocked a smooth and constant 60km/hr speed. On way, I expressed my apology to the owner of the shop for losing his snow garments and paid a fine of 500 rs. I halted a hile just around Kothi as I watched the horse grooming there. Luckily, I reached Manali just as it was nearing dark. I wanted to visit the Jugni waterfall just after Rohtang-Vaishit juntion(at Bahan Chota Nullah) where to reach that beautiful waterfall I had to trek the road through the narrow alley by Army camp but I dropped it on advice of the locals. I went to mall after cleaning up and got in to Tibetan Chinese restaurnant, Chopsticks which was suggested by
many people. Place looked realy nice and cosy but very few seating arrangements. I was surprised by the variety of food served. I ordered for Tuna sushi, some mixed vegetable noodles and fried chicken. The food was nice as expected and I even bought chinese bowls which I had difficulty in finding anywhere. I walked up the mall road and realised number of people in Manali has increased drastically from the day before. I also bought one local made famous "Waterfall" apple wine from the bar at the corner of the street. At the park I found out a group of funtoosh Punjabis playing songs and doing bhangra on their own out of some unknown excitement. I went back to my room soon early and retired for the day.
May 4,Sunday
Kullu,Manikaran,Parvati Valley, Malana,Old Manali,Naggar Kullu I had the bus back to Delhi at 4:20 pm so I am yet to decide whether to go towards Manalikaran in the morning which is bit far off or spend time here and Kullu. I decided to give a shot and head towards Manalikaran as far as possible. I filled up the tank and zoomed down the Manali
towards Kullu. On way, I just passed by the numerous White Water Rafting camps and decided to try one for some rafting experience. I got dressed with the jackets and tried to get in the boat. But when our boat went in the water the flow was not enough for us to work on. Hence, I decided to quit the idea of rafting further and decided to proceed further. I headed further down and noticed there were numerous shops on either sides of the road for Kullu shawls(woolen over garment). Remembering the horrible experience of losing the snow garments day before, I decided to buy them on way back only. I took the overbridge just before Kullu and crossed the river below and bypassed Kullu and went to other side of the bank. The road was absolutely gorgeous. It was a flat mountainous track overlooking Kullu and Beas river on other side. I sped past the place. But I was not able to find the crossing which was lead to Manikaran. After driving further for half an hour finally I was able to find an uniquely arch shaped bridge and took the road to the left. The road shortened and
started to wind up the hills like a cork screw. The deep gorges below were sharpely cut by the stiff mountain cliffs. I had difficulty in driving through the road. The rocks were just above my head and were protuding out and any time one can expect a landslide to take place. There were some glimpses of small scattered village houses made of wood in distinct Himachali style. The places are less touristy and some what different from rest of the Himachal Pradesh. People were shorter, off tanned complexion and were greenish-brownish eyes and wearing Himachali tribal dresses. There were some stonned looking Europeans in Enfield bikes on way who looked more like aliens from Nazi era.
Parvati Valley and Malana I heard a lot about Parvati Valley and Malana from Ravi and his friends at Manali on the party and how the place is mysterious and unique where people do not follow Indian government and people follow their own rules. I heard it used to take 4 days of trekking and camping to reach Malana before but now there an alternate route has come up to reach the place from Jhori a joint on way to Manalikaran.
But still I was not sure how to reach there. I also felt occassional traffic on way where in one of those traffic one guy I gave a lift who works for Malana Everready power plant. So luckily, he guided me all the way from the road and passed Jhori and let me pass past the Power Plant gate and bridges inside. I passed through a series of production units of machinery and head up towards Malana village. The people and smell of air is very different as well. I crossed two mountains but still I was not able to find the Malana village. I reached a large damn construction site and asked the security guard about directions. They informed they I had to pass through another dam to other side of mountain and then park my bike down. As I reached there finally. I realized I had to climb all the way up the hill. It was a difficult road but I somehow managed to trek and reach Malana village in two hours time. On way , there was lot many greeneries and there a smell which was making me dizzy. Soon, I realised I was passing by cannabis
plantation and the weed was growing absolutely everywhere from cracks in rocks to normal fields. The village consisted of mideaval aged village houses with dirty looking people. There were lots of foreigners with majority of Israeli,Italian people and looked very strange. I was not allowed to touch any villagers or house walls as we according to them belong to impure class of people. There is one temple which I got to know that if we open unless at on a specific date and time we will die. The residents of Malana believed they were descendants of Alexander's army who took refuge instead of retreating back. They held same prestiguous status as Rajputs of India. But I doubt that seeing the dirty looks and shabby tribal dress they wear. Ask any person there they will provide you with Charas! They are so rich with the deals but still they live in poor conditions which I believe they were compelled to as part of custom or may be prohibition to lead a different life style by Jamblu Devta or the community lords. I descended the hill faster than I anticipated and even the drive down to Jhori was faster than I expected despite the dizzy state of mind.
Manikaran I drove up and went to Manikaran which I reached in another half hour drive. Manikaran is an interesting place and name was derived from "Manu",who was believed to have created human life after flood. It has since been converted to religious pilgrimage site for both Hindus and Sikhs. According to legend, when Lord Shiva and his consort Parvati were walking in the valley, Parvati dropped one of her earrings. The jewel was seized by Shesha, the serpent deity, who then disappeared into the earth with it. Shesha only surrendered the jewel when Shiva performed the cosmic dance, the Tandava and shot the jewel up through the water. Apparently, jewels continued to be thrown up in the waters at Manikaran until the earthquake of 1905. There are nice temples and Gurudwara and is by rivers Vyaas and Parvati. I didnot have much time to explore the place as I was running short of time. After about 2 hours of continuous focused drive back I finally reached Kullu.
Naggar and Old Manali I decided not take the over bridge but take the road below and take the road straight towards Nagger. I wanted to visit Bijli Mahadev temple where legend says, that shivling was been hit by lightning and later was togethered and is considered very auspicious.. I had to trek a little but since I was getting late so I drove along. The other side of the river is more green than Kullu - Manali highway and I the traditional houses of Himachal were very interesting and unique. I halted at a fine Buddhist Monastery, Doh and paid a visit to inside of the Monastery. It looked like a smaller version of Rumtek with lot many lamas. I spoke two couple of them and they guided me inside. I go to know from them they were actually from Tawang in Arunachal Pradesh. I quenched my thirst with water and rushed back to my bike so that I can make the final stop to Naggar Castle on way. Naggar was located a bit on top of hill. So I had to go winding up slowly in my first gear in a long arduous journey. It was converted into a hotel and reluctantly I had to pay a entrance fee of 10 rupees as well. There was not much inside except a couple of temples and a commercial restaurant. One thing that was noteworthy was the view from the wooden balcony of the Kullu valley from top. The castle was distinct from others it looked like a wooden castle and typical of the region.
Way back to Manali When I got down and enquired how far is Manali .From the locals I got the response it will take another half hour. I started to rush back in panic. Soon, I realised that there is a dark cloud cover ahead in sky and no sun. In about ten minutes time the rain started pour down heavily making it almost impossible to drive and then the most dreaded thing happend. I slipped on a pot hole just after crossing a thin metal bridge. My hope of catching the bus was all gone. I got the bike to order but realised I am in a complete mess now. Anyways with little hope of survival I drove by and reached Manali when clock has struck was 4:25 pm. The bus was suppose to leave at 4:20pm! The message I got from the bike owner was that he had misplaced my id card which he had deposited for security of the bike. I was devastated! and was wondering what to do next.
Journey back to Delhi The owner luckily helped me reach hotel and clear the dues. I gathered by bags and head back to bus terminal. I was lucky that the service person at the counter for the route was a realy helpful person. He called up the driver and asked him to wait for me at Kullu bus terminal. In mean time, I received my id card and waved off the bike owner and thanked him for all his help. I got a cab from bus termincal to Kullu who sped toward Kullu in the violent turbulent weather. Rain has stopped just before we reached Kullu but we caught up with a traffic jam bottle neck. The driver of the bus to Delhi screamed at me when he found out I was the one who missed the bus. The bus was stuffed and half filled with hippies and of course one can easily smell a distinct of cannabis! I got a seat next to a very kind Himachali lady who shared her snacks with me and I got to know she was heading to meet her her sister at Delhi. There was a massive tunnel of 2.75 km stretch which was simply mind blowing. On way back bus halted at two places only in the night one was at border of Himachal pradesh and another at Chandigrah terminal before finally arriving at Delhi bus terminal.
May 5,Monday onwards... Bloody ugly Monday morning and office work! Straight from heaven to hell overnight! Life is hard, very hard! I spent the week just chatting with my colleagues Bibin and Abhishek at office and just hanging around the office place to lift the sour mood.
I contacted Sourav once on wednesday and we went to Sector 14, Gurgaon and had a nice Lassi and sweets at Om Sweets. I just hanged around the market complex and had nice tender and juicy tandooring chicken at a drive in restaurant.
Well, I tried to contact Gunish again at Connaught Place, Delhi on Friday but found he was busy with some work and so I went straight to renowed Karim's restaurant directly from office and a city tour of Delhi. It was difficult to reach highly muslim populated Jama Masjid area specially on friday. The area was further populous because of an ongoing tense cricket match taking place between Delhi Dare Devils and Chennai Super Kings. The entire Jama Masjid looks like is having a meat fest. Every consecutive shop either selling fresh raw meat or is non vegeterian restaurant. There were just so many restaurants there that I was not able to locate Karim's for long time. Well Karim's too was not one isolated restaurnant but a cluster of adjacent restaurants there. I had an hands on Kebab's there. Mutton burra and chicken legs tandoori were the best I have tasted in Delhi. I couldnot find the special dish of Chicken Changezi there suggested by Gunish to my dissapointment but never the less the aromas were excellent. I just headed back to Connaught place in the dazzling streets of the beautifully decorated restaurants and clubs. The market area was really amazing and more of happening place and buzzing with teenagers. I drove from CP and went to Vasant Vihar and tried to catch a late movie at Priya. It was weekend so it was difficult to get tickets for any of the good movies there. The Priya market complex was just amazing place to hangout and one of the best places in the city. The young crowd of Delhi definetely knows about fashion and cosmo life style and the place was packed with people even at 10 in the night.That was probably last place in Delhi I visited during the trip.
Now,the "business trip" concluded. I have to go and pack my bags. Another destination calling.....
Closing Remarks
Hindi:
" Musafir hoon yaaron!!
Rukhnaa naahi!...
Baas chaalte jaa naa!!"
English
"Friends! I am traveller!
I cannot wait!
I have to move along"
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Ollie
non-member comment
Great trip mate and very intresting piece of writing such a great adventure you had , would of loved to of travelied with you , maybe one day . I really need to write up a few more of my trips but sadly have trouble finding the time , once again very intresting writing and amazing trip , take care mate