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Published: October 23rd 2009
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m back for a few days!! 😊
and fortunately had two nice weekends to spend...
Made a 2-day trip to these rustic ruins in Gujarat, and covered this spectacular heritage site....The Sun Temple of Modhera
MODHERA:
99 kms from Ahmedabad, the 11th century Sun temple of Modhera is easily one of the finest examples of devotional in western India. Built by the Solanki Rajput kings, the aid of donations from the people, the temple features carved torana arches mounted on kirti stambhas (pillars of victory) as the entrances, a large rectangular stepped with 108 smaller shrines, an exquisite 52 pillared portico, beautiful domed central portion and a sanctum sanctoruim designed so that the sun light fell on the bejewelled statue of the God, specially at sunrise during the equinox. The exterior of temple is carved with traditional erotic scenes, rivalling at Konark and Khajurao, and depictions of various Gods and, while inside are friezes of the Mahabharata and portrayed on the pillars. The temple is framed by a well garden, and sits on the banks of river Pushpawati.
Surya Kund
Surya Kund is a deep stepped tank in the front of the temple. The tank was named after
the Lord Surya (Sun God). In the earlier times, this 100 sq meter rectangular tank was used to store pure water. The devotees used to take a halt here for ceremonial ablutions before moving towards the temple. Not less than 108 shrines mark the steps of this tank including the shrines dedicated to Lord Ganesha, Lord Shiva, Sheetala Mata and many others. In front of this tank, a huge 'torana' (archway) leads to the Sabha Mandap.
Sabha Mandap
Literally, Sabha Mandap refers to an assembly hall where religious gatherings and conferences are conducted. This hall is open from all the four sides and has 52 delicately carved pillars. The intricate carvings depict scenes from the Ramayana, Mahabharata (Indian Epics) and scenes from the life of Lord Krishna. In order to get into the Sanctum Sanctorum, one has to cross the passage with pillars and arches.
Goodha Mandap
Goodha Mandap is the sanctum sanctorum that is supported by a lotus-base plinth. Once, this hall used to house the idol of the Sun God. The designing of the hall was done in a way, so that the idol gets the first glimpse of the Sun at equinoxes. However, the idol
was plundered by Mahmud Ghazni yet the walls represent the Sun God in his 12 different facets of each month. The carved walls also depict the aspects of human life like the vicious circle of birth and death. The façade of this hall was renovated in the recent years, despite the fact that the roof over the Goodha Mandap had already been shattered.
Things to do:
Modhera is an ideal destination for being away from the hustle-bustle of city life for a day. The unruffled peaceful landscape and the majestically welcoming temple complex will ensure to take you away from the mundane routines of daily life to the glorious times back in the Golden Age.
• As you enter the historical complex, you first come across the magnificent kund known as the Ramakund, built in rectangular shape containing 108 shrines to various gods and demi-gods. Check out the three main shrines positioned on the three sides of the kund, dedicated to Ganesh and Vishnu and an image of Lord Shiva dancing the ‘tandav’ facing the temple of the sun which covers the fourth side. Various shrines showcasing different mudras are arrayed along the staggered configuration of steps leading
down to the base of the ‘Kund’.Try following the rhythmic ups and downs of the steps
• Walk up the steps to the ‘Sabha Mandap’ or the assembly and convene with sculpted renderings of twelve ‘Adityas’ (another name for the sun god). The twelve representations carved on the pillars represent the sun according to the
• twelve months. It is believed that these ‘Adityas’ are the base myth to the temple of sun, the legend imparts Aditya’s to be sons of ‘Aditi’, the goddess of Infinity and the constant within the inter-connectedness of the universe.
• If you love listening to stories, make sure you find the purohit or priest who has been taking care of the temple, and stays close to the vicinity. Request him to narrate or explain the tales and sequences from epics and legends which
• are carved on the 52 pillars adding grace and poise to the temple section. Even if you do not find him around, do go through the carved murals which serve as a virtual encyclopedia of history of communities, lessons in mortality, descriptions of fairs and festivals and rituals of the golden era. If time permits may be you can examine
each panel in turn and witness the intricate details encompassing the panels speaking and sharing about their costumes, jewelry, performing arts, erotica and the intensely enigmatic art of making love, medicinal plants, and the pharmacopoeia etched in stone.
• After witnessing and traveling across time with the raconteur figurines, a visit to the Garbagruha will definitely feel as a spiritual experience. The statue of the sun god no longer exists and the Suryavanshi Solanki’s have been scattered into the dust of history since a thousand years but still on the day of the Equinox, one can almost hear the chanting of the prayers, the aroma of incense, the tinkling of bells as the sharp, linear rays of the sun illuminate the inner core of life and light.
If you are keen on temple architecture or are around Ahmedabad for work, dont miss this !
bye
Anu
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