Goa in the rain

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Went a bit crazy in Jaipur buying jewels! Made a huge and slightly risky purchase of a custom designed ring, yip I am now a ring designer. It is white gold with an oval sapphire in the center, on both sides two tiny diamonds and then a small square emerald; all in a clasp setting. Luckily when I picked it up the next day it was exactly as expected, now I am praying that they are actually real precious stones, tehehe. I’ll get it appraised once I get to Sydney. After making the purchased I raced put to Tiger Fort, which looks out over Jaipur, I missed sunset but was told it was a bit average any way. There was a great view of the city below; it is a lot bigger and more sprawling than I thought.

The next day I did a solo mission to Pushkar, a Hindu pilgrimage town with a pearl shaped lake in the middle, ghats surrounding for bathing. And also famous for the camel fair in October. Since I had already spent time in Jaipur I thought it was a good way to spend my time and keep me out of jewelry stores. I set out in an old school white car, which reminded me of my granddads car. It was a 2.5hr journey on some of the best highways I have seen in this country. But it was a bit spooky because there were hardly any cars or trucks, but course plenty of people and cows strolling along. I got dropped at the bottom of a steep hill, sitting on top was Savitri Temple; built for one of Brahma’s wives. There were people streaming up and down all yelling out friendly greetings. Lots of people trying to shake hands, taking photos and of course the usual amount of staring; but it was all very friendly. The Temple was not very spectacular but the view down to Pushkar was. Some women sitting in the temple wanted their photo taken, I obliged… they then walked me all the way down to the bottom of the hill! One of the ladies was carrying a small child, she held my hand until half way down, I was a little concerned she may slip and lose grip on her baby. At the bottom I was accosted by a group of children who came screaming up to me and were hanging off my arms like Christmas decorations; all in the aid of getting some money of course. I then walked to the Brahma Temple; lots of hubbub around there, markets, beggars, worshippers. I got some flowers to take as an offering, the temple was painted in pinks and blues and the spire was red (I think this shows it is Brahma), to be honest I could have done with a guide. After that visit I went on my way to the lake following some chanting and dancing people. The view down to the lake from a rooftop restaurant was excellent, you get a feeling it is a very spiritual place… of course lots of travellers smoking weed as well. I visited the Gandhi Ghat, where his ashes are sprinkled, there was an annoying ‘priest’ (i.e. they try and scam money out of you), so I put my flowers in the lake made a wish and was on my way. I made my way around to the pick up point through the main market selling the usual touristy stuff, and past a Genish parade with boys covered in coloured paint powered, then I was on my way back to Jaipur.

The next stop was at Bharatpur, we stayed at a excellent hotel, the pool was divine so I spent the afternoon splashing about. The reason we were here was to visit the Keoladeo Ghana Bird Sanctuary. We got a rickshaw from the hotel to the bird park late afternoon, since there was a poor monsoon in the area there was no much of a lake. Although we saw some birds, the promised storks and the park was very tranquil at dusk, but there weren’t as many birds as I had expected.

The next day started with a giant breakfast at our posh hotel, then we set out in some glamorous people movers for Agra via Fatehpur Sikri. It was a huge red stone complex, including palaces and a mosque. The best thing there was a monument for the elephant that use to handout justice; it was tall pole with spikes coming out of it. Back in the day if it was undecided if a person was guilty or not he was placed under the elephants foot, he was either stomped to death or not, guilty or not guilty. The Mosque was a fantastic structure; only annoying thing was they allowed touting inside which I don’t think it a great thing to do in a place of worship. I tell you by that stage the red stone had started to heat up, I nearly burnt the bottom of my feet… leaping from foot to foot, looking slightly deranged.

Our hotel in Agra was a good 20min walk away from the Taj, getting hassles all the way from rickshaw drivers who don’t understand the concept of westerns walking. We went across the river by boat to watch the sunset over the Taj, which was quite lovely. I had dinner at Shanti Lodge, which I reckon has the best view and the silhouette of the Taj in the dark was beautiful. Our last day of the trip didn’t get off to a cracking start, a long story, but in summary the group completely missed sunrise. Tensions were a little high after that and I got a snide comment regarding my decision to have dinner at Shanti Lodge and not the crap over priced place the rest of the group went to. The light around 6.30am was still lovely and it was great being at the Taj that early, there were less people and it was way more still and peaceful. After breakfast we headed for Agra Fort, yet another huge complex. I thought this fort was rather interesting; it was a working fort so there was many palaces and stories to go with it. The detailed carvings in the Kings bedroom with views to the river was my favorite section. I spent the rest of the day chilling at Shanti Lodge gazing at the Taj Mahal. And then I went and picked up my TORCH, yippy. I left it there 3 weeks ago and they still had it, although it did cost me 100Rps to get back I was pretty stoked. The train ride back to Delhi was painfully slow, it took more than an hour more and just crawled. I ate no food on the train.

After a lazy morning and a few good-byes I set off for Goa, I arrived at the airport WAY too early. Finding I could not take the 2l of water I had just purchased through the gate I sat and drunk it all. The flight was good, nothing but good things to say about Spice Jet the planes were very new and there was an on time departure. My one issue was with the crazies on board who kept turning their cell phones on … I proceeded to tell the hostess as I didn’t want to die. Idiots. I got my backpack all right and my pick up was there, so I whizzed down to where I was staying; Bhakti Kutir, Palolem, Goa. My room was great all in dark brown wood, very rustic feel to it, a huge bed in the middle with a mosquito net. There is an outside toilet and shower, which is a bucket job. There is a big blue rubbish bin filled of water for refilling the loo and showering. After my first use of the toilet I turned to flush and there was a little frog staring back at me. When I woke the next morning the place was way prettier than I realized; it is nestled in a coconut grove with flowers and plants everywhere. The food at the place is great as well, all home cooking and whatever is available that day. I have been doing yoga every morning on my little decked area, next to my day bed… love the day bed! I have only had one sunny day so far, the rest have been hammering relentlessly down with rain. So I have spent much of my time reading and eating and doing nothing. I did get down to the beach on the sunny day, (after being attacked by some red ants on the way!) it is a lovely moon shape, although it is not looking so good at present. A NZ guy a met at dinner, who is currently trying to set up a kayaking business, told me the council has introduced a new rule regarding no structures closer than 200m from the shoreline. A good idea, a bit late. It has caused much concern just as the seasons is kicking off; there are brick / concert structures and blue tarpaulin everywhere, bit of an eye sore. Also on the sunny day I took a brief dip in the Indian Ocean, very refreshing. Like everywhere else in India, the beach had strolling cows and many women in saris's, even swimming in them! I also had my first Ayurveda massage; I didn’t enjoy it at all. I was absolutely dripping in oil, like a little eel, it was gross. I wont be going back for another one of those. Due to all the rain all my clothes and everything in my room (including bedding) is very damp, one evening when it was really coming down I was getting drips land on my head! Of course every time I went to use the toilet (outside) I got drenched, so it has been an experience indeedie. Maybe it will clear up tomorrow, on my last day…here’s hoping.

I head back up to Delhi late tomorrow to met up with my next trip - I will start to make my way to Nepal

Photos

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