Goa - at last!!

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Terry has been to South Goa before when he last came to India 5 years ago and loved it. The guide books say’s the best beaches are in the South and quieter so we decided the South it was. As Smithy only had 8 days left she was happy with the best beaches rather than the more rave party scene and package holiday crowds that pile onto North Goa beaches. Terry and I are here for 3 weeks so after Smithy goes we would be checking out North Goa as my brother comes out for 2 weeks on the

18^th November.

We arrived at Margoa train station at 10.45am. The skies were blue, the weather was hot, all we could think about was jumping into the sea. Margoa train station is in South Goa but still a long way from Pallolem beach. The pre paid taxi booth quoted us 750rps plus extra for bags so all in all around 850rps to get to Pallolem beach (around £12). We did try to get a bus first but none came and we were just dying to get there so we managed to haggle a taxi driver to take us all the way for 650rps. The journey took about 40 minutes. Pallolem beach is stunning, beautiful sandy beach, warm sea (murky though not translucent so useless for snorkelling) and lined with beach huts and restaurants. Our man aim was to stay in a beach hut, not necessarily with a sea view but short walking distance to the beach, must be cheapish but secure. We left Smithy reading her book at Big Bamboo bar which is right in the middle of Pallolem beach whilst Terry and I looked for somewhere to stay. Best huts within our budget we found were the ones at the back of Big Bamboo set amongst the Palm Trees. They are run by one of the owners of Big Bamboo and are called Manfreddies beach huts. There are 10 huts all in an gated area with somebody on the door 24/7. At only £5 a night we had found a great place. No hot water, but majority of the huts do not have heated water but as it was so hot the cold water shower at the end of the day was refreshing as it is not freezing water. It is only a short 10 second walk to the beach so was perfect for our lazy break in Goa.

After being a strict vegetarian for 6 weeks in India (besides the odd visit to McDonalds for a chicken burger) I decided to be brave and have a prawn curry from Big Bamboo on our first night here. It tasted alright but was a little salty, however that same evening I was sick every hour until the next morning and could not leave the hut all the next day. I was able to eat the following days but took me least 4 days to get my appetite fully back and be able to have a beer again. Since then I have eaten chicken which is really succulent and lovely here but I would never go near shellfish again. Every night the beach front restaurants set out their table and chairs on the beach, lit only by candlelight to create a very romantic setting. It is lovely to look up and down the beach at night with the candles flickering. The best places we have eaten are Cieran’s, Smuggles Cove, Casa de Fiesta, Cheeky Chappattis and Magic Italy. Not sure if it is because 4 out of these 5 are owned by foreigners but food is tasty and within a great setting. You can also see the kitchens which are very clean. A lot of the portion sizes are huge so Terry and I been sharing dishes to keep costs down and our weight!!

One of the days Terry, Smithy and I decided to visit Agonda beach which is another beautiful beach which you can get to via two short bus trips. Did not take long to get there and the beach was deserted, maybe dozen or so people at the most sunbathing along the beach front. There are only a handful of restaurants on the beach with more being situated in Agonda town. Very idyllic but maybe bit too quiet for the 3 of us. Great place to go in the daytime though. We had a nightmare bus journey back though. After 3pm the bus no longer comes into Agonda village so you have to walk 1km up to the main road. We waited nearly an hour and the queue of people waiting got bigger. Once the bus pulled up everyone charged onto the bus, whilst we stood back and squeezed in at the end, they only just managed to shut the doors with us all in. At least it was only a 15 minutes ride back.

Most of the days we spent sunbathing during the day and going out for meals in the evening. It was great to relax in one place for 8 days especially for Terry and I after travelling through India for 6 weeks. Was very sad to see Smithy leave and felt really quiet for the next couple of days.

Saturday 26^th November 2011

On Tuesday the 22^nd we decided to leave Pallolem beach and head up to North Goa. The guide book talks about the Wednesday market in Anjuna being the largest in Goa so we thought we would head there, look for accommodation for at least a couple of days and arrange to meet up with my brother Richie and his girlfriend Karen. They were staying in Aupora with Karen friends who have an apartment there which is only a 5 minute taxi ride from Anjuna.

Being budget travellers we decided to catch the 4 buses up to Agonda which cost us approx 100rps each (£1.30) rather than a taxi which would of cost us approx £20. All in all took us 4 hours to get up there. Bus from Pollolem to Margoa, Margoa to Panjim, Panjim to Mapusa, then finally Mapusa to Agonda beach. Every time we got off one bus the next bus was waiting so was not a bad journey and as the buses are so regular, people were not squeezed on like sardines, so we always had a seat.

Found a cheap apartment to stay for 400rps a night (£5) and that evening popped to see Richie. Rich has never been to India before and was ver spoilt with where they were staying as was nothing like India accommodation, we could of been back in England once we stepped inside. Their friend’s apartment was beautiful. All mod cons, beautifully decorated and air con, Terry and I were very jealous. Unfortunately Rich had eaten prawns the night before and was not too good so Terry and I got an overpriced taxi back to Anjuna. Maybe shellfish and India is not a good mix!!

Next day we went to the market but were really disappointed. Some of the stalls were run by hippies which was a shock to see and there stuff was nice but definitely no bargains to be made here. It was huge but the market stalls all had the same stuff for sale and more expensive than other markets we have been to. Karen and Richie really wanted to head to Pallolem beach the next day, we had only spent two days in the north but did not really like it. We only went to Anjuna beach but it was full of tourists, very busy, constant trance music being played. We were constantly offered drugs day and night and just really missed the more peaceful and beautiful south Goa so decided to head back with Rich and Karen the next day.

30/11/11

Pallolem Beach – again

So Thursday 24^th November Terry and I jumped back on the bus back down to South Goa. Rich and Karen were going to experience the train down but you do have to get taxi to and from the stations and the tuk tuk charges are huge here compared to the rest of India, so we said we would head back down South in the morning and be there before they arrived in the afternoon so we could show them some possible beach huts we had seen for them. In the end they could not be bothered with the train and caught a taxi down.

They decided on a lovely sea view hut at the end of Pallolem beach as it is quieter and the huts are bit more luxurious. We showed them Patnem beach which is the next beach along from Pallolem but they decided it was just a bit too long a walk to get to and not as much choice as Pallolem beach especially with restaurants.

The government want to protect Pallolem beach and the rest of the Southern beaches from turning into concrete jungles and becoming too commercial like in North Goa. Every year all the beach huts, shacks, restaurants have to be taken down that are put up in South Goa partly due to the Monsoon season but also no permanent buildings are aloud on the beaches and everything has to be built around the palm trees, no cutting down of anything is aloud. The buildings are taken down end of season around May time and rebuilt again September time. Loud music is not allowed here and bars must turn their tunes down by 11pm. However some bright spark came up with the idea of a silent disco. There are 3 DJs playing a selection of house, trance and RnB, you each get a head set and choose which channel, or which DJ you want to listen to and party the night away. Was a good night but the music was a bit more trance then cheese so we got a bit bored but was funny to see everyone with their head sets on dancing around and singing out loud.

One day having spent the afternoon chatting with Rich and Karen on the beach outside their huts we decided to head off to get ready for the evening. As we said goodbye and started walking off we heard a huge crash. Terry and I ran back to where we were sat and a huge palm tree had just fallen onto the beach about a foot away from where we had just been sat. I saw Rich and Karen and was so glad they were not hurt. We often joke about coconuts falling on our heads, which of course would not be funny, and the waiter at our place who is a Roman Catholic would say that no one gets hit as only if you do something bad in your life would a coconut hit you, so for us four to nearly be crushed by a whole palm tree made me just a little bit jumpy after that...

Nearing our last day we all hired mopeds to check out the surrounding area. We paid 200rps per moped for the whole day which is only £2.60 – cheaper the taxis. We drove to the deserted turtle beach, and the beautiful Agonda beach. Karen and Rich found a great deal on a beach front hut there that they decided to move to Agonda for their last 3 days.

We are now on our last day here in Pallolem beach. Met some great locals including the waiters from Big Bamboo, the people that run Manfreddies huts and a great shop keeper called Sanjay who is up on the main road. Really sad to leave but cannot wait to be in Thailand on the 2^nd December!!

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