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Published: November 19th 2019
On the Road to Tawang The SUV was newly acquired Mahindra Scorpio S-11, that wife Rina nicknamed "Black Beast". Dear friend PT Bhutia & I decided to embark on a driving trip from Siliguri in Darjeeling foothills to Tawang in West Arunachal Pradesh, North East India. The mission was to drive through high altitude Sela & Bomdilla Passes and to pay obeisance to the guardian deity of Lord Buddha in the 400-year-old Tawang Monastery, the biggest in size and shape, next only to Potala Palace, Lhasa. The first long trip, immediately after taking the delivery of the SUV, was Siliguri-Dharan-Dhankuta in Eastern Nepal in April 2019 with wife Rina wherein the Black Beast clocked 200 km plus. Being a Mahindra SUV fan and having driven white Scorpio and Bolero in the past 10 years it was a decision to go for a black one this time around just for a change but secretly to make my presence felt and dominate the road. A gleaming black Scorpio with shining alloy wheels would just about do the intended job.
The Plan: The best time for us to take the journey was in October, between Dusshera and Diwali celebrations, after the
rains, when the winter was yet to grip North East India. The route chosen was Siliguri- Gosaingaon-Bongaigaon-Rangia-Tenga Valley-Bomdilla Pass-Dirang-Sela Pass-Tawang & back the same way. It involved around 2000 km drive both ways, through the plains of Assam and hills & valleys of West Arunachal Pradesh. There would be a night halt in Rangia, the first acclimatisation of 2 nights in Tenga Valley (6500 feet), cross Bomdilla Pass (8500 feet), second acclimatisation of one night in Dirang (4900 feet) and final drive to cross Sela Pass (13714 feet) onward to Tawang (11000 feet).
Partnership: Dear friend PT Bhutia (PT) from Gangtok, recently retired as Secretary, Agriculture, Govt of Sikkim and a devout Buddhist, had expressed keen desire to take on the trip with me so as to offer his prayers in Tawang Monastery. Besides being a beautiful human being with a wry sense of humor he shares a common passion with me on anything to do with SUVs driving. A proud owner of Pajero Sports, PT is an excellent driver and an awesome travel partner.
Finance: It is always a good idea to be very clear on finances during group travels, as such, we decided to go Dutch.
We pooled in INR 15K each in a joint kitty while PT was unanimously voted as the cashier for the trip.
Logistics: Another a dear friend and fellow Regimental officer, Sanjay in Tenga Valley were, as always, ready to extend a helping hand towards organising accommodations along the way in officer’s messes/transit camps wherever available for a veteran. As for food, we decided to stick to vegetarian hot food in military transit camps/roadside eateries/dhabas.
D
ay minus 1 (21 Oct 2019): Preparation: The Black Beast was serviced; tyre nitrogen level checked and topped up, tools checked and packed along with first aid kit and medicines, drinking water and emergency rations including dark chocolate. My traveling backpack, a kind of grab bag, besides a pair of undergarments, extra shocks, waterproof poncho, phone charger, high neck pullover, and woolen balaclava, also contains a small Murphy water boiler with tea, sugar, coffee and milk sachets. A Swiss knife, Khukuri, a discarded golf putter are must carry items for utility and self-defense purposes, just in case. Most importantly, a hip thermos full of brandy is all time, must carry cargo. Friend PT fetched up from Gangtok and we spent the evening discussing
the routes and halts over pegs of brandy. After light continental dinner of Shepherd pie, Russian Salad and dinner role from Rina’s oven we slept early after setting the alarm at 4 am.
Day 1 (22 Oct 2019-Siliguri to Rangia-428 kms/10 Hours): As planned we drove out of the garage at sharp 5.30 am after tea and cookies while Rina had packed sandwiches for breakfast. I took the wheels and sailed through the silent road across Siliguri town as the sun rose in the Eastern horizon casting shafts of illumination cross the hills & plains of North East India. After topping up the fuel tank at Sevoke we crossed the 200-year-old British era Coronation Bridge over azure blue Teesta River by 6.30 am. I pushed the beast to average 80 km per hour and we wheezed past Damdim, Malda, Nagarkata and Binaguri. At about 8.30 am it was time for breakfast and we stopped at a roadside eatery/Dhaba at Telipara, a few kilometers after Binaguri. The pleasant boy manning the eatery served us hot omelet and masala tea to complete our sandwich breakfast. Soon after I continued driving and felt the rhythm of the road through the
On the Road to Tawang
Colourful Chorten in Chillipam Monastery in Ruparolling tyres of the beast over not so even blacktop road. It was a regular feature of passing through miles of golden paddy fields followed by small villages dotting the green carpet of Assam tea gardens thereafter stretches of forest lands as the road, now getting narrower, knifed through the land. We crossed Alipurduar and took left from Gosaingaon towards Rangia. Lunch break was another Dhaba beyond Gosaingaon that had a unique name, “Dragon Dream Dhaba” perhaps signifying geographic closeness to Eastern Bhutan. Daal fry and mixed vegetables were nice and hot to go with chapattis. I had been driving over 200 km since 5.30 am, as such, after lunch; PT took over the wheels and pressed on at convenient 80 km per hour while eased the co-driver’s seat at a convenient reclining position and closed my eyes towards semi-conscious power nap. Nonstop driving except for a couple of 2 mins breaks to empty senior citizen’s bladder, we hit Rangia, our destination of the day by 3.30 pm. We had driven about 420 km in 10 hours plus. It was easy to locate the imposing gate of Red Horn guest house almost hugging the highway. Both of us having driven
On the Road to Tawang
Diram Boutique Homestay 200 plus km each were tired but happy to down few pegs of brandy before early dinner and crashed by 9 pm towards dreamless sleep.
Day 2 (23 Oct 2019-Rangia to Tenga Valley via Mangaldoi-256 km/8 hrs) Again we took off at 5.40 am after tea and biscuits as I took the wheels and drove along the highway towards Tenga Valley. Speed was slowed down by thick mist of Assam foothills with visibility barely 50 meters; as such I had to drive very slowly with caution while the fog light did its work efficiently. By 8 am we reached a small hamlet Kharupedia and I noticed a signboard of the army transit camp. It was time for breakfast and I drove into the compound after identifying myself at the gate. A typical military cafeteria on the pleasant environment of the first floor with wide French windows offering an excellent view of golden paddy fields stretching as far as the horizon. Out of the limited menu of South Indian breakfast, we ordered a Dosa & Vada that was served piping hot. Incidentally, it has been an unwritten norm in the army to serve South Indian breakfast
On the Road to Tawang
PT Bhutia on suspension Bridge in Diram in most of its transit camps & eateries. To find delicious, sizzling hot Dosa & Vada in a remote area of Assam was happiness. As always, such food is well washed down by great south Indian coffee and that’s what we ordered. Without wasting much time we drove on and picked up speed as the mist started clearing heralding bright and sunny Assam morning. However, by 10.30 am, maybe the result of sumptuous breakfast, I felt sleepy and handed over the wheel to PT who was fresh and drove on steadily. After midday, the ground started rising under the wheels as the road started snaking uphill with gradual turns. The paddy fields and tea gardens gave way to thick insidious forest land while the good road continued penetrating through the land. By 12.30 pm we reached Kalaktang village and I started looking out for the military Transit Camp as informed by Sanjay. By then we were quite up in the hill with an altitude of Kalaktang being 4734 feet. As a welcome sign of nature, a light drizzle turned the jungle foliage into shining fresh greenery. As PT negotiated a sharp bend space opened up and I spotted the olive
On the Road to Tawang
Road to Tawang after Sela Pass green temporary buildings of the military transit camp in the open space either side of the road. PT parked in the small & empty parking area and we walked into a small but cozy officer’s mess dining stretching our cramped bodies and obviously looking for toilets. The mess NCO welcomed us and showed us the dining table while another pleasant surprise awaited us in the form of sizzling hot buffet lunch of paranthas, daal and tangy aloodum. After lunch, we felt cold and pulled out our jackets for the remaining journey uphill. Distance to Tenga Valley from Kalaktang was only 82 km but the hilly road with frequent broadening work slowed down our ascent.
We reached Rupa, a small, congested town along the banks of Tawang Chu by 3 pm. The road through the town was narrow with many vehicles trying to negotiate their way through while a huge military 10 tonner truck almost blocked the road. The beauty of Rupa was a small modern bridge over the river, after crossing which the road broadened and the traffic congestion was over. Driving along another 7 km to Tenga was not as smooth while driving through numerous patches of road
broadening work. The beauty of the road meandering along the river, hugging the mountainside could not be missed. We reached the transit mess in Tenga Valley by 3.45 pm to be welcomed by ever beaming brother officer Sanjay. Enjoying the beautiful lush green lawn of Sanjay’s residence we enjoyed hot tea with hot and crispy mini-samosas over much catching up chit-chat. We were shown our beautiful field rooms with double bed, Sofas, small TV and even a Bajaj mini aircon. Getting out of the traveling clothes we slept under the cozy blankets till 7 pm to ease our driving tiredness. Evening 8 pm was get together at Sanjay’s residence with local friends of Sanjay one of whom, RD Thongdok happened to be a keen farmer. Thongdok grew Kiwi in a planned orchard while his wife brewed kiwi wine on a commercial basis. PT, being a lifelong agriculture officer in Sikkim struck up an interesting conversation with Thongdok. The result of their agricultural conversation was that we were invited to visit his model farm in Rupa and lunch at his home the next day. The conversation steered over the flora & fauna of Western Arunachal and someone brought the topic of
On the Road to Tawang
Multi forms of Tara inside Tawang Monastery The Eaglenest Wild Life Sanctuary that is a treasure trove of biodiversity and bird’s paradise. Such a place obviously triggered deep interest in my bird and jungle loving mind and I thought of the possibilities of visiting the place one day. In the meantime, glasses were getting filled up while Sanjay’s Khansamah, an elderly, about to retire gentleman ensured a continuous flow of delicious snacks on the table.
Day 3 (24 Oct 2019-Exploring Tenga Valley & Rupa) As a test drive of Scorpio for the first time, Sanjay drove the Black Beast across Tenga and entered Rupa, friend, RD Thongdok was waiting for us outside his palatial two storied home. Sanjay appreciated the smooth drive of Black Beast and remarked that it was as smooth as flying a Concord. After tea and introduction to his family, we took off for his village, Thungree. It was a small but well laid out clean village dotted with small cottages, gardens surrounded by green fields of vegetables, corn, and millet while the boundaries were well fenced by bamboo walls. It also boasted of being a defecation free village under the Swatch Bharat program. We had an awesome opportunity to
meet up with an 80-year-old honey gatherer who had helped the Indian Army carry ammunition to their bunkers during 1962 Sino-Indian war. When I asked him if he had seen Chinese soldiers, he laughed and replied, “How could I see them when I hid under a haystack thereafter ran away to save my life”? Further up the hilly terrain, along a narrow road, Thngdok took us to his well-managed model farm and showed us blooming kiwi orchard, cornfield, millet & tomato fields. It was a field day for retired Agriculture Secretary, PT Bhutia who appreciated the model farm and shared his experienced wisdom on its improvement. He suggested channelizing the cow urine into a covered cemented pit so as to use its diluted form as an effective organic pesticide. A few kilometers up the hill Thongdok guided Sanjay driving the Beast to a small village monastery wherein a special open hut an ancient metal dome-like structure was displayed. There was a board describing the strange object which stated it to be a cast-iron container brought by the Govt of India in 1950 for soap making the purpose and abandoned for 50 years in the jungle after using it for 10-15
On the Road to Tawang
The Assam Regiment Church in Baisakhi years. In 2014 under the initiative of local leaders including Thongdok, the container was manually lifted and enshrined in this location for safekeeping and remembrance as an antique. Thereafter Thongdok took us to another beautiful monastery of Rupa named Chillipam, also known as Sang-ngag Choekhor Dargeyling Monastery. This is the most beautiful monastery I have ever seen so far. Most colorfully and artistically structured, the monastery has multicolored and multilayered stupas, chortens, gates, windows and roofs, all surrounded by a beautiful garden and lush green lawn. This stunningly multilayered and multicolored beautiful monastery also offers an awesome panoramic view of Rupa hills & valley beyond. There was a colorful and well-stocked canteen where we were offered delicious buttered and salted tea, Chuja while friend Thongdok presented us with locally made incense stick packets from the canteen. As it started drizzling while the temperature fell, we drove out of the holy place with the last salutation of obeisance. On the way back we followed a different route and visited a very beautiful Nichifu fall.
RD Thongdok introduced us to his unique and small Sherdukpen community of about 5000 who have been living
On the Road to Tawang
Misty Tawang from the Monastery in the West Kameng district of Western Arunachal Pradesh for many centuries. This interesting community’s homeland stretches across 10 villages at an altitude from 1500 to 200 feet very close to Tibet and Bhutan border while Rupa is the biggest and prominent village town. Upon further discussion with our host, it was revealed that the Sherdukpen community is distinct from their own language, religion and autonomous law with the power of jurisdiction within its community. Lunch was a special Sherdukpen meal of rice, chicken, green vegetables and a special Alge’ dish cooked with homemade soft cheese (paneer). Mrs. Thongdok explained that the Alge’ is collected from rocks submerged underwater, dried and cooked. Laced with many herbs and garlic it tasted great. We left after receiving Kiwi packets and walnuts from the Thongdok farm. Another night of drinking and eating nonveg & masala food in excess, kind courtesy, veteran Khansamah, we crashed early so as to start early the next day.
Day-4 (25 Oct 2019 Tenga Valley to Dirang-60 kms/2 hrs): Having done the first acclimation exploring the countryside of Rupa & Tenga Valley, it was time to move forward to destination Tawang. However, in the morning I
On the Road to Tawang
Somewhere between Arunachal & Assam felt uneasy and tired and checked the BP with the digital machine that indicated high of 185/110. At not so advanced age of 74, I was obviously cautious and visited the nearby military hospital to get myself examined albeit after taking the daily BP tablet. The kind lady doctor examined my BP as also took ECG. The BP was down to 170/95 and ECG was normal. Nevertheless, for safety, I was referred to the medical specialist who checked and certified me fit to continue the journey. He explained that 170/95 is perfectly ok for 70 plus males. I was relieved and decided to hit the road again. Considering our age factors Sanjay had advised us to cross Bomdilla pass and enjoy a night a halt in Dirang instead of driving straight to high altitude Tawang. After a hearty breakfast, we drove off at 10 am with PT at the wheels. He drove steadily through congested traffic, narrow road and road broadening work of Tenga & Rupa and started climbing the remaining 14 km to Bomdilla pass. The national highway passes through Bomdilla town before Bomdilla Pass along a narrow road and we were stuck in a traffic jam for about
On the Road to Tawang
At Kiwi Orchard with owner Thongdok half an hour with army convoy rumbling down from the opposite direction. After clearing the town we crossed Bomdilla Pass (8400 feet) uneventfully and the road spiraled downhill towards Dirang. We reached Dirang at 3.30 pm and called up Pema of Dirang Boutique Cottages where our accommodation was arranged. The location was in Dirang village by the side of Dirang-chu (river). We had to get off the road and drive a short distance on a kuccha road and get to a narrow suspension bridge. As we stopped by the side of the bridge and parked at the designated place next to the pier, the cottage staff guided us and carried our bags across the narrow shaking suspension bridge. A row of beautiful stone cottages alongside the main cottage greeted us, surrounded as it was by a riot of the colourful blooming garden of marigold, fruit trees, and orchids. The property was beautifully and imaginatively constructed on the banks of the river Dirang-chu.
The room was small, tidy with one stone wall that had well-crafted ledges for ethnic decor. It had 2 single beds and an attached bath while broad window ledge served as a bedside table. I
On the Road to Tawang
A part of Rupa Monastery found it cozy and comfortable. The welcome beverage was delicious buttered & salted tea; Chuja served hot after we occupied the rooms and moved out in the garden opposite the cottage. Sipping Chuja we moved around appreciating the garden and the layout of the cottages and the surrounding landscape while shooting numerous photos. After the usual evening nap we were invited to dinner in the main house dining hall. PT opted for rice, daal, and vegetables with a huge omelet while I opted for soft rice (Khichadi). The room tariff was reasonable INR 2400 with complimentary breakfast. If one had a driver, both accommodation and food would be free for him/her. Not a bad deal in such a beautiful ethnic dwelling. Over dinner, the owner, a forty-something petite lady in her traditional bakkhu gave us a brief background of her place. She had a 28-year-old son, who, upon returning from Delhi, post finishing his hospitality graduation, had initiated the boutique cottage concept. Accordingly, the mother-son duo had acquired this plot on 40 years lease and constructed the boutique homestay. I was pleasantly surprised to find dozen-plus novels and travel books on the shelves of the lounge cum dining
hall. It is always good to find book reading people in these times of unlimited electronic gadgetry dominated environment.
Day 5 (26 Oct 2019-Dhirang to Tawang) After a good night rest without the usual alcohol we got up fresh in the morning and ate organic breakfast of Chapatti, vegetables, and omelet with tea/coffee. PT again took the wheels for the final drive to Tawang. Distance from Dhirang village to Tawang is 143 km and the approximate time would be around 5 hours. It was uphill long winding road in good, bad and at places ugly condition due to road broadening work. But first, we had to drive through the famous Sela Pass. The final lap to the pass was gradual climb with a narrow road snaking up in many turns like an anaconda. Only a few stretches had protection rails and crossing the incoming vehicles had to be cautious at such stretched. Mercifully there were well planned broad patches meant for the purpose of sidings the vehicle while letting long convoys pass. It had snowed the previous night, as such; we could observe with delight the beautiful snow-covered peaks all along the way while I took many shots
On the Road to Tawang
80 years old Honey Gatherer from Sherdukpen Tribe of West Arunachal from the moving SUV. The incoming traffic over the narrow road without guard rails and sidings were nail-biting, knuckle-whitening experience to say the least. Finally, as we approached the Sela Pass gusts of strong cold wind greeted us through the open windows and I felt the chill in the old bones. The pass itself was marked by a huge, larger than life monastic designed gate. Passing through the gate and looking out, I noticed with delight that the entire area of the pass was covered with fresh snow while only the road was clear of the snow due to moving vehicles. Finally, we crossed the Sela pass at 13700 feet with great satisfaction while I clicked away as many pictures from the moving vehicle. Almost adjacent to the Pass, Sela Lake is a small water body located on the north side of the pass at an altitude of 13,650 feet, slightly lower than the pass. Although there were snowflakes around the lake, its placid surface was slightly disturbed by the cold wind of the pass creating small but visible ripples that traveled to touch its frozen shores. The lake freezes during the winter while its water trickles down to the
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Antique soap making pot n Rupa Village monastery Nuranang River that joins the Tawang River in the valley below. The lake was surrounded by multifarious and multicolored prayer flags fluttering in the strong cold wind. We drove further down along the winding wet road flanked by snow-covered hills on either side. After about 45 minutes of driving downhill, we reached a small village, Jaswant Garh, named after Sepoy Jaswant Singh of Garhwal Rifles who had valiantly fought the marauding People’s Liberation Army of China and laid down his life during 1962 Chinese aggression. In fact the entire area from the border, Tawang right up to the planes of Assam, Chinese Army had steamrolled and had stopped only short of capturing Tezpur. We stopped by the broad roadside parking and visited the monument of the hero, Sepoy Jaswant Singh of Garhwal Rifles. Moving around the sacred monument slowly and taking camera shots I remembered the days of 1962 Chinese aggression when I was a schoolboy in Kalimpong. The entire monument was spread over a hilly slope while a small board with arrow marks indicated a Chinese graveyard. We walked into the sanctum santorum where a bronze bust of hero martyr Jaswant Singh was kept in a glass case and
On the Road to Tawang
Nichifu Fall in Rupa Village mounted on a pedestal that was adorned by marigold garland. I stood at attention and bowed my head in front of the bust of late sepoy Jaswant as a mark of respect to the fallen hero. After more photos, we stepped down to the army cafeteria for coffee & snacks. We were served with yet another delicious South Indian dish of Vada & Idly with chatni along with hot coffee. This snack was as good as lunch and we drove off towards Tawang without wasting much time. We reached Bomdir, 11 km short of Tawang by 2.30 pm. This is where our guest room was reserved. After checking in and a cup of tea we had plenty of daylight, as such, decided to visit the famous Tawang Monastery straight away. Although a short distance but the road to the monastery passed through the main town and thereafter through many twists & turns so much that we had to frequently ask for directions. Finally, we reached the holy Monastery and stepped into the sanctum santorum to pay our respect to the great Lord Buddha & Guru Padmasambhava. It was humbling to be inside the second most holy monastery after Potala Palace
On the Road to Tawang
Corn stacked up for wind to dry in Diram in Lhasa that gave us a feeling of divine connects with the celestial souls. A monolithic structure of massive fortified complex Tawang Monastery was built-in 17
th Circa by Mera Lama, a contemporary of His Holiness the 5
th Dalai Lama. It belongs to the Gelugpa sect which is a branch of Mahayana Buddhist sect. It was a surreal experience to be face to face with 28 feet high gold plated bronze statue of Lord Buddha and those of Guru Padmasambhava & many forms of Tara. It is said that the monastery also holds many priceless artifacts, original writings and rare books on Buddhism. The library was closed due to renovation work that I would have loved to visit. A great and holy Buddhist site, Tawang Monastery is one of the most important must-visit religious places of Buddhists all over the world. No wonder friend PT Bhutia was delighted to pay his deep respect and pray in the monastery. An important festival called, Torgva is celebrated every winter in the months of Dec & Jan by the Monpa tribes of this western Arunachal Pradesh who follow this sect of Buddhism.
Taking advantage of the daylight by 4.30 pm we had a
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Around a bend before Sela Pass great view of Tawang town from the monastery premises. The town was spread over a spur gradually sloping down southward and I could see an imposing, larger than life gold-painted statue of the Buddha presiding over the town amidst the rising mist that would eventually envelope the Buddha along with the entire Tawang.
We drove back to town and asked people for directions for the old market. The traffic as usual like hill towns all over the world was congested. It got dark and in the melee of traffic, we entered a wrong one-way lane until reminded by courteous traffic police to return. Upon inquiry we found that the same place was the old town we were looking for. With the help of the policeman, we found a parking lot and got out to explore the famous old market. Not much to our surprise, the place and the people looked almost like capital city Thimpu of Bhutan. We walked around looking for ethnic shops but all the shops were looking almost the same, selling as they were, Chinese, Taiwanese, Hongkong or Thailand items of clothing, shoes & utility items. Finally finding a shop displaying few locally made ethnic items,
I bought a handwoven sling carry bag and we returned back to Bomdir for the night.
Day 6 (27 Oct 2019-Tawang to Tenga Valley-194 kms/7 hrs): After early breakfast of toast, omelet, and coffee at 7.30 am we started our journey back to Tenga at 08.30 am with PT on the wheels again. It was clear weather, few vehicles on the road and we made a good time reaching Jaswantgarh Cafeteria at about 10 am. After a hot cup of strong coffee, I took the wheel and started the gradual uphill climb to Sela pass. Going was good, breathing cool mountain air and we were lucky not to encounter army convoys on the way. Although there was no snowfall the mountain peaks were still covered with previous day’s snow. I maintained an average speed of 40 km per hour between 3 & 4 gears driving uphill along gradual turns snaking its way towards the pass. As we approached the Sela pass, the cold wind greeted us through the open windows. The beautiful Sela Lake came into view towards our right and I requested PT to take a video of the serene lake from the moving
SUV. Windows open to feel the fresh and rarefied air of the Pass, I drove slowly, almost in slow motion in a surreal scenario of snowflake covered mountain top, the beautiful Sela Lake with rippling surface and unlimited colorful prayer flags around the lake fluttering away to glory. Next in motion came the view of the majestic gate of Sela pass and finally we drove through the gate. Not having enough, I parked the black beast about 100 meters ahead of the gate and got out to walk over the sacred pass while the chill wind of swept through the pass. Resisting the temptation of entering the cafeteria adjacent to the gate, I chose to walk around and take as many shots of the gate and the mountain ranges beyond. The snow was still there but not as much as the previous day. We clicked photographs of the famous pass and the panoramic view of the valley below for remembrance. There were few travelers who were in and out of a cafeteria. We chose not to spend too much time at the pass and I started the downhill drive to Dhirang and onward to Bomdilla & Tenga. It was the
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Colorful Sang-ngag Choekhor Dargeyling Monastery in Rupa day of Diwali but the cold pass at 13700 feet was another world. On the way down we had to pass through Baisakhi Cantonment wherein I had to find the church built by 4
th Battalion the Assam regiment in 1976 and renovated by 7
th Battalion in later years. Soldiers have a lifelong emotional attachment to one's regiment and battalions; hence, we make it a point to visit old institutions whenever possible. The church was bang on the road adjacent to the canteen and I was able to locate it easily. I stepped into the holy place where many battalions of the Assam Regiment would have prayed and celebrated Christmas & New Year. I walked up to the Alter and said a quick prayer for my Regiment and moved on after clicking photos.
After Baisakhi Camp, further down the road, we stopped by at Nyukmadong where officers and men of 62 Infantry Brigade of the Indian Army had fought a bitter and bloody battle against the advancing Chinese army in 1962 Sino-Indian war. There had been many casualties on both sides. This Chorten style memorial is built in memory of those brave officers and jawans who laid down their lives in this battle. We walked up the holy Memorial and bowed our heads in respect to the long-ago battlefield heroes. By now, mid-day hunger pang had started rumbling our stomachs and we were looking for Shengi Transit Camp on the way. After many turns that seemed like ages, we finally spotted the transit camp along the road by 12.30 pm. It was a Diwali Day, the festival of lights in India in honor of return home to Ayodhya by brave & benevolent King Rama after 14 years of exile in the jungles of South India during the Puranic age. Perhaps in celebration of Diwali, hot chicken biryani lunch was waiting for us at a buffet table. Hungry as we were after early breakfast and a long drive, we wolfed down the delicious biryani with more and more helpings. It is only after finishing delicious chicken biryani lunch that I realised that I was supposed to be vegetarian on the day of Diwali as we worship Mother Laxmi, the Goddess of wealth in the evening. Anyway, it was done in all innocence and hunger so we moved on. Warmed with great lunch I drove on, first downhill towards Dirang thereafter uphill to Bomdilla Pass which we crossed at about 3.30 pm. Once again we were lucky to find an almost empty road and finally reached Transit Camp, Tenga Valley at 4.30 pm. Beaming mess staff greeted us with hot crispy samosas and tea before our well earned power nap. Sanjay had organised a quiet Diwali dinner for the three of us and we gathered at his place for well-earned drinks followed by Diwali dinner. It was the celebrations of Diwali 2019 as well as for the accomplishment of our Mission Tawang.
Day 7 (28 Oct 2019-Back to Rangia): After leisurely breakfast at 8 am we started off for Rangia after a thankful goodbye to Sanjay. PT drove downhill with ease and the going was good with limited traffic. Unlike the onward journey, we did not stop at Kalaktang, instead, we ate simple but hot vegetarian lunch in a simple dhaba with a grand name, Hotel Palzor. After lunch, I took the wheel and drove down to meet the plains at Orang. Having received a message from a friend, Ibnul in Guwahati about the specialty of Orang town being famous for Rasgulla and tea, we stopped by to find a suitable sweet shop. A kind and smiling policeman pointed at a nearby sweet cum tea shop where we enjoyed the delicious sweets and topped it up with freshly panned Jalebi. Both of us love sweet dishes and it is always good to be eating something fresh and hot after every few hours of driving as such an exercise keeps drivers fresh and journey interesting. After Orang, I drove non-stop till Rangia where we checked into the guest house rooms to spend the last night before reaching home the next day.
Day 8 (29 Oct 2019-Tamalpur & back to Siliguri): A blast from the past-0n 1 Jan 1976, as a young Captain, I was part of a motley team of officers and men that had gathered in a remote Assam village, Tamalpur, 21 km East of Rangia. The mission of the team was to raise a new infantry battalion of the Assam Regiment. Our Commanding Officer was Lt Col P Shivpuri, now retired as Brigadier and settled in his home town Jaipur. When I shared my Tawang mission plan with our Veteran’s group I received express instructions from my ex Commanding Officer to visit Tamalpur along the way and post pictures of the place for remembrance of the surviving team members. Accordingly, we drove down to Tamalpur, just 21 km from Rangia and lo and behold I could recognise the place even after 44 years. We drove in through the gate after identifying myself at the sentry gate, parked the beast under an old banyan tree next to the officer’s mess which was there in our time too and roamed around the premises. To my surprise, everything, the layout, the ground, the lawns, and the trees were the same. The buildings too were the same but completely renovated from those bamboo walled, asbestos roofed temporary huts to modern cemented buildings. I walked into the officer’s mess area and was promptly received by a young officer of the unit occupying the place now. When I narrated my mission more officers came out and invited us to breakfast in the mess. I took photos and videos as I also spoke to Brig Shivpuri giving him a visual of the place. Needless to say that he was thrilled and the entire team of 1976 were happily stunned to see the photos & video of well maintained Tamalpur after 44 years. After a hearty breakfast of paranthas, vegetable curry, egg, and coffee we drove back to Rangia and continued the long drive back home to Siliguri. On the way back we followed Falakata-Jalpaiguri Road as suggested by Black Beast Navigation GPS. Although the route was short compared with the Alipurduar-Sevoke axis, we were caught up in major traffic jams near Jalpaiguri due to road broadening and flyover constructions. We missed the last turn towards Eastern Bypass and landed up near New Jalpaiguri Railway Station and had to take the city route to my home. Nevertheless, all is well that ends well. We reached home to Rina’s grand dinner.
Lesson Learnt: It was a great, fulfilling road trip that saw us through our doubts of passing through high altitude passes of Sela & Bomdilla as also surviving Tawang at 60 plus for PT and 70 plus for me. However, the lesson learned was that it was too tiring & taxing for the old bones to drive 400 km plus at a stretch, as such, we have now decided to take it easy and drive only 200-250 km per day. The tiredness crept in slowly in the next few days, stayed on for another 2-3 days and now we are good to go again, anywhere.
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