Hong Kong

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As I decended through the cool mist that hangs like a shroud over Hong Kong harbour to land at the space age airport, I thought to myself that these few days can go one of two ways...

The first option, I clarified to myself as I stepped aboard the super sleek airport express train, was to fully immerse myself in the unique culture of this amazing city - this imperial bastion and gateway to China. I could sample snakes blood and chicken feet and get lost in the maze of the street markets - I could stay in the dirt cheap hostels containing poor migrant workers from every corner of the globe, I could sample the chinese love of gambling at the horse racing at Sha Tin,
I could explore the ancient temples in the peaceful parks of the remote New Territories, sample the wonderful chinese seafood cooking at the small fishing villages on the south of Hong Kong island, and I could emerge a better, more rounded, and wider travelled individual as a result.

Alternatively, I mused, as I took a taxi to my friends stunning modern appartment... "sod it - I'll hang out with old mates, get drunk, and watch rugby". Well they do say travel broadens the mind.

And so the week went on. With Rachael searching in vain for wild elephants in the Bornean rainforests, I was here in Hong Kong, and gazing at the stunning harbour view from my friend's tastefully decorated pad. I was staying with Rowley Aird, an old pal from uni, who became one of my proteges during my time at Bloomberg. He still works for everyone's favourite financial information vendor, and lives in Hong Kong with his charming fiance, Dorcas.
Rowley's impressive collection of good suits, designer gadgets and his ego boosting massive plasma tv reminded me of my comfortable life I left behind - and I must admit, I was slightly envious. But he and Dorcas' hospitality were fantastic, for which I'm very grateful.

Having made my decision to enjoy the week in the ex-pat lifestyle, I settled down to a couple of relatively quiet evenings - running with Rowley, using the amazing gym facilities at his sports club, and settling down to home cooked food in front of the tv - simple relaxing pursuits that I have really missed since being away! I did do some sightseeing - the obligitary tram trip to the peak, and the Star Ferry to Kowloon - which both afford amazing views of the skyline, and of course the window shopping around the mega-malls they have here, with every designer name under the sun, including loads that were too trendy for me to have heard of them.

But my real reason for me coming here early was to try and get some playing time in the Hong Kong 10s. This tournament is a pre-event to the international 7s of the weekend (which this year happen to be the World Cup 7s). Now I played in the 10s last year, with some moderate success, and it was a top notch tournament - and despite my team from last year not being here, I was keen to see just how unfit I had become - so I basically blagged a few games with the host club - Hong Kong Football Club. Now, I'd like to say that I was a massive success, and the old magic was still there, but unfortunately, after popping over for an early try on the artificial grass surface (actually quite good to play on), I managed to sprain my neck, and only lasted 10 minutes. Still, that was enough rugby for a year...
Without me, HKFC of course then lost their next 2 games and made an early exit - but as I watched the later rounds, and the massive Maoris and Samoans smashing lumps out of each other, I was quite glad I was in the stands with a cold beer.

And so onto the weekend. This started badly for me. Whilst lunching with a load of Rowley's friends, both from Hong Kong and over from the UK; I was, budget wise, way out of my league. The collection of lawyers and bankers gleamed with rolex's and omegas, and all the trappings of being well paid young professionals. Their understated but undisguisably expensive designer shirts, in finest egyptian cotton, contrasted with me in my unwashed backpacking Che Guevara t-shirt. The beer and food in this city arent cheap either, so I was ordering the cheapest stuff on the menu - still, "it's a blow out for a few days", I thought, and enjoyed my lunch... but then I was offered the chance to spoof for the lunch bill. Although I'd only had a coke and a sandwich some of the other boys had tucked into a few beers and steaks early doors.. still,
I thought I'd take the chance to avoid paying for it, so I entered the game...
you can work out what happened next.
yes - 110 quid for a sandwich and a coke. ouch.

To be fair, the bankers and lawyers all offered to let me off, but as a man of honour (?), I felt duty bound to "die by the sword" and my visa card was summoned, complaining from my wallet.
To their eternal credit, most of these guys saw me right for beer over the next few nights, so I really didnt do too badly overall.

The other dodgy start to the weekend was the accomodation. With Rowley's spare bed having been booked up months in advance, and with Rachael arrriving on Friday evening, I had the duty of finding a clean, comfortable and affordable place to stay. Late on Thursday afternoon, I found that such a place doesnt exist in Hong Kong. With the 7s, all the major hotels were full, all the recommended youth hostels and backpacker places were full, and the only place for less than 60 quid a night was the notorious Chungking Mansions in Kowloon. This looked like a 20 storey deathtrap - the ground floor of pushy indian fake watch salesmen lead to a feeble looking lift with a large queue of poor migrant workers who use the 10 pound a night rooms here. The low ceilings, the asbestos walls, the wild eyed west african men who stalk the hallways, the windowless rooms with sponge mattresses, the complete lack of fire escapes and the fact that a german backpacker was found murdered here last month all conspired to put the Chungking Mansions off the list.
Which meant I was stuck..
Until I saw a sign for a guesthouse in the central shopping area of Causeway Bay. This smart area of shops, bars and restaurants is 2 minutes from the rugby stadium, 2 minutes from the gym and pool at the HKFC, and 5 minutes on a metro train to the centre of town. The guesthouse rooms were small, but had en suites, were very clean. I thought I'd stumbled upon a gem..

"how much are you rooms?"
"how long you wanna stay"
"3 nights"

Photos

Hong Kong 10s in the spectacular setting of HK Football Club, Happy Valley.
(un?)fortunately, my participation in this tournament was limited to 10 minutes..

Comments

[Amy Carlisle]

Sounds like you had a great time in Hong Kong, im studying here for 5 months, and came across your website bye chance. Any recommendations down the notorious Lan Kwai Fong? Im studying here for 5 months, and need a decent local [e-mail]