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Published: April 14th 2007
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Saturday, 14 April, 19.00: As I write, I’m sitting in my 4-person soft sleeper compartment in Beijing, having successfully negotiated bike, taxi, train and now another train today.
As I wrote last night, my plan was to bike around West Lake today. In order to do that, I had to get up bright and early (not my favorite thing to do), have breakfast (also not my favorite thing to do) to provide fuel to pedal heaven knew how far around the lake.
The hotel is pretty strictly a business hotel. The breakfast room on the 18th floor was filled to overflowing with Chinese businessmen . . . and I emphasize men. There were a couple of families, but I was the only Westerner there. I had heard of Chinese breakfast before, but this was my first experience of it. I can’t tell you how many different kinds of things there were because I don’t know the names of them all, but there was soup, dumplings, noodles, rice, and much, much more. There was also Western breakfast and good strong coffee. After breakfast of ham, eggs, a dumpling, fruit, juice, and some of that good strong coffee, I was
ready to tackle bike riding in China. No problem, I thought. I’ve lived in Amsterdam for eight years now. And, believe it or not, it was actually no problem!
I picked a cute pink bike (no snide comments, please) and set off. I started on the city side and found a bike route around the Northern shore. Because I was off early . . . it was 8.45 when the bike rental man wrote my ticket, it was relatively calm. There were people but not too many. I enjoyed watching several people at Tai Chi. It’s such a beautiful form of exercise, more like ballet than exercise to me. Suddenly I found myself at the first of the bridges, the Bai Causeway, named for the 9th century poet-governor Bai Juyi. It leads to a small island first landscaped during the Tang dynasty (618-907).
Sidenote: The train is underway! On the way to Beijing at last! Then by plane tomorrow to Qingdao.
Anyway, back to the gardens. Beautiful. Old. In harmony. And possessing a small stand where they will dress you in oriental garb and take your photo for about 1 Euro. Needless to say, I couldn’t resist.
Too bad it’s not digital, but suffice it to say it’s funny, even to me! They do a nice job by sealing it in plastic so you don’t damage it in transit. What fun.
I completed the ride to the mainland again and set off on the second transit across the lake, the Su Causeway. Riots of fuschia azaleas competed with the gentle pink of cherry blossoms and weeping willows for my attention. By this time, it was not quite so peaceful. Hordes of tourists with flag-waving guides were descending on the tranquil causeway. Several people wanted their picture taken with me. I had understood this would be the case, especially with those who may have never, or rarely, seen a Westerner in person. Without exception they were sweet, gentle, and lovely people. Interesting too is that in the pictures I saw taken yesterday, many people would hold up what I call the peace sign, index and middle finger forming a V. When I asked Danielle yesterday she said it stood for victory. I didn’t ask victory over what . . . she said it was very popular to do. So today, I also make the peace/victory sign with
those who wanted a picture with me.
I left my bike parked and locked outside the Pagoda pavilion. I had seen the pagoda from a distance across the lake and wanted to see it up close. But by this time, the two cups of coffee and two glasses of juice I had for breakfast were making themselves known. “OK,” I thought. “I’ve put it off long enough and I’m sure there are no Western toilets here. Time to go native with squatting toilets. Gotta tell you, it was really no problem at all. The stall was small enough to reach out to the sides for balance and I was prepared with tissue. All that worry for nothing!
Refreshed, I headed up the escalator to the Pagoda. It sits atop a hill with views over the lake. Again, it was hazy, so my photos will be a bit bland, I’m afraid, but it was a great view.
After my trip to the Pagoda, I knew it was time to be heading back to the hotel. I had already checked out and put my luggage (and my perfectly, newly cleaned white jacket - done courtesy of the hotel) in
storage. I found my bike guy, paid him the equivalent of 3 Euro for the time I had spent on the bike, and sat myself down in the lobby café for tea and a snack. I asked the waiter what his favorite desert was and he pointed to something that looked like pecan pie. It wasn’t pecan, but delicious nonetheless!
The taxi to the train station was uneventful and quick. In fact, I could have enjoyed West Lake a bit longer, but the front desk manager thought it best that I get to the station early.
A note about the trains. I realized that I have now experienced all but one type of train travel here. Hard seat - my trip to Hangzhou. Soft seat - Hangzhou to Shanghai. And now Soft sleeper - Shanghai to Beijing. So far, Soft sleeper wins hands down. Should be interesting sleeping. There is one woman and two men in the four bed compartment. I had read that there were also 2-person sleepers with bathroom, but was unable to book one.
At the Shanghai train station I bought some chips, muffins, green tea iced (not really iced anymore) tea, and a
cute little bottle that may contain some of that strong stuff I talked about yesterday. It will be a surprise. I just liked the bottle. You believe me, don’t you?
OK, so we’re up to date so far. Perhaps more stories of my train trip from Beijing to Shanghai later.
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Tammie
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Hanging in Hangzhou
RIDE SALLY RIDE! I am so proud of you for renting the precious pink bike for a tour around West Lake. Hangzhou was one of my favorite places and your pictures have brought back some fond memories. THANKS:) I've read on another page that you have been treated like royalty, you deserve it and SOOOO happy that you are bathing in the joys of customer service and hospitality. Bring us some weird, delicious food back!