Baishuitai

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Baishuitai (bai-schway-tai) - meaning, "White Water Terraces"

Before the Tiger Leaping Gorge hike, Richard (hiking guide) recommended that I take a bus to visit the "white water terraces" at Baishuitai. "It's very beautiful, and my family came from that same village many many years ago", he said. The place gets it's name from the natural terrace mantles which formed over many years by gradual precipitation of the calcium carbonate mineral found naturally in the spring's groundwater. From a distance, it looks like a massive paint spill. Up close, they look exactly like white rice terraces filled with sapphire blue spring water.

The park itself was very clean and had a very relaxed feel. The view from above looking down into the valley was beautiful! The sunlight shining from the West made the green wheat fields come alive against the pristine blue sky.The terraces covered the entire hillside and many small streams zig-zagged through shaded picnic areas. Large groups of local boys were sitting around under the oak trees drinking beer and talking loudly. As I maneuvered around another group's enormous pile of empty bottles, one of them shouted "HEYYY BOY!!". I laughed so hard. They were all guys, spending the afternoon drinking and smoking while their wives worked the fields or sat by the roadside waiting to greet tourists. Bizarre culture, the Naxi people. Nah-shee.

I stayed in a local woman's guesthouse that evening. She ran a very clean property but when I was looking through my room I found a cabinet littered with dark, tiny, round pellets...."Uhh, laojia! Wo xiang lai yige fanjian qing. Wo juede wode fanjian you haozi!" Excuse me! I would like another room please. I think my room has mice! The innkeeper claimed they had no mice but I insisted she come look. When I showed her the cabinet she reached in and grabbed a few (AHH yuck!!) and exclaimed, "bu shi! zhe chi!" Not so! It's food! The mice turds were actually small seeds left behind by a previous guest. She demonstrated to me by snacking on one of them. Oh lawd. My stomach cringed after she had done this. Only moments earlier I was convince that they were Naxi mouse shits. (performing at Coachella maybe?)

This place was very special. I would recommend Baishuitai to anyone traveling to the Tiger Leaping Gorge and who are willing to budget an extra day to enjoy some quiet scenery. It's on the way to Shangri-La too! I'd also recommend it to anyone who wants to find a quiet refuge away from the tourist madness of places like Lijiang and Tiger Leaping Gorge. Next time, I'm bringing my own tent and some ganja to share with the locals.

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