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For our final flirt as a four, to the swirling sands of the desert we have wondered. Four days remained before Bristol2Bombay faded from the sun... Having taken the bus from Xinning, with perhaps a day trip in mind, we arrived in the Atomic City - Xi Hai. We had to obtain a special permit to enter into this region as it is both where China tests and researches its nuclear weapons and launches its space program. Xi Hai itself is a strange looking place, we learned later that this is because it was actually built by the Soviets back in the day.
Before any officials had the chance to accost us, we were whisked off by a much tanned Chinese looking man kitted in biker gear and boots, sunnies and hair fresh out of Wayne's World. May I introduce Dino the Don.
Within a flash we were in the desert and with the eye of the day falling fast in the sky we rocked up at our destined oasis - Golden Bay. Pitched on a perch overlooking China's biggest lake, this humble palace, surrounded by mighty dunes became our home within moments. We
slept in Tibetan tents and ate either on the vast wooden veranda or in a humble Black Tent.
Golden Bay principally serves Chinese tourists who pass through on coach tours of the Wild West, stopping for a few hours to eat and take the same photo in front of the lake, droves of them. After a brief midday humm the place is left to us and Dino's crew.
After a throw-away comment from Jona, Dino actually put us to work and it turned out that in return for the odd-job which always turned out to be a laugh, we got free accommodation and board! Various jobs included, fetching water from the river(alla Jungle Book), fetching bricks from somewhere and the occasional translation of Chinglish. See, we're not just spending our gap year joy riding this bliss of youth, we're working. Out-reach programs man... and all that Jazz.
In between dreams we managed to sample several of the attractions at Golden Bay including the Quad Bikes and the Horses.
Ripping up the Dunes with an ATV between your thighs, spinning 180 skids and feeling the frozen desert air on your cheeks beats any
But For the Sky, there are no Fences Facing
Theses two maidens we came accross were completing a pilgrimage of prostration around the lake. lunch break imaginable.
As soon as the sun goes down the temperatures plummet. We got friendly with the (other) staff. Everyone would gather on the veranda at sunset to play with the puppies, relax and perhaps spin a prayer wheel. We would sit round in the evening writing and musing, normally over a beer or four. Then off to the tent and quickly into bed before your balls break off.
One day, as a reward fro fetching some water, Dino took us into Atomic City with the promise of a shower. We rolled up at hair dressers who make half their income renting a shower room. People here don't wash very much, we fit right in! (When in Rome darling, when in Rome..) After warming our cockles and a Tibetan hair cut for me we were ready to dine. Dino took us to his usual, a restaurant in which all the patrons have their own private room. Every one of us had a private steam boat circling a revolving table. The waitresses brought out droves of goodies prepared and ready to be cooked fresh. Dino told us many a story of his exciting life and answered
all our remaining questions on Chinese and Tibetan cultures and customs.
Dunc awoke on our final day together with food poisoning and the Jay man said he 'felt a bit dodge'. We honorably left Duncan to sleep it off and went off on the Quads again. This time opting for more powerful machines with the result of each returning home with a near-death experience under the belt.
Tick..! Dino is a man of ideas. In the early afternoon we were off again up the mountain to the proposed site of his idea. He is awaiting planning permission to build a Potala inspired palace to serve as both a luxury hotel and abode for his retirement. Dino talks of zip wires and a little harbor on the lake. He tells us three years, and I wouldn’t put it past him. If it comes off like he envisages it will be jaw dropping given the setting.
On our final evening together we headed off, literally into the sunset, on horse back. Now, the Horse-Man asked us, all be it with body language, weather we had ever ridden a horse before. Technically, we all had and alas
we all mounted with confident little cheeky grins on our faces. We soon realised that riding a horse is not like riding a Quad Bike. This may sound obvious, I think we kind of knew it as well, but just ignored it. So, initially we were doing alright, just a gentle walk and we felt like pros. I don't really know what happened next but it was something like this. I was being hot headed once again when I gave my
Silver a little kick to the hind and fuck me did I regret that. My horse dashed off at a flat out gallop, Alec's horse gave chase and within moments our guide was no more than a pin prick on the horizon. We hung on for dear, dear life. My feet came free in the stirrups. My life flashed before my watered eyes as my horses leapt from dune to dune. Pulling on the reins I started him spinning in a furious circle. These thing have no brake!!! I don't know how but eventually he got tired and with sweat seeping form his beautiful back
young Silver stopped. Alec was no where to be seen. The Horse-Man soon came
Candle Light, Camera and Action
The charming Jade,"like the stone". galloping up and calmed ye silver, much to my relief, and then went off after Alec. Jona then came trotting up on his old tart of a horse, all smiles and hysterics and told me what had happened.
We continued our evening at a gentler pace, the Horse-Man firmly holding our second rein. Jona and old fogie horse was allowed to roam free as the old girl could only hack a trot.
Duncan valiantly rose for the final sunset and last supper. In the end it was only Alec and I who ate, accompanied by the jelly-bellies. After the food we have eaten here, we feel like regular princes. Duncan was obliged to keep down some Chinese medicine vegetable preserve a la soy sauce. Poor Skinny, it looked disgusting.
For one final surprise, a Taiwanese film crew turned up to interview Mr. Dino B. the Don, and then us! The lovely Jade fired us with, honestly, rather banal questions about our travels in China. However, she was so wondrfully charming and feminine we were more than happy to oblige. With the camera lens focused on the B2B team, skinning teeth we beamed
"Hello Asia!" Mr. Dino Bee the Don
Our friend, host and guide to Quinghai. Dude extrordinaire, what a geeze. out to billions of little giggles. Over our complimentary beer we reminisced over our time together and in a reflective mood headed off to yet more lands, this time, of nod ZZzzz......
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Charlie Rawlings
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Was laughing out load by myself for far too long when I read your bit about the horse sam!!! Wish I could have been there to just see your face. Brilliant x x x love you lots, charlie