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Published: April 30th 2008
It is really hard for me to come up with adequate adjectives to describe what this experience in Tibet has been like. I really don't think my writing skills or my photos could really do it justice. It is a place that has left a profound impression on me, unlike anything I have experienced before.
Though before I began gushing about the wonders of Tibet I should preface this by saying that I was on a tour. Ouch, I wince hearing those words. I'm not talking about a massive bus, wearing matching jackets and following a flag or plastic flower. Actually, it was just Craig and I, set up with a Tibetan guide and driver. However, our itinerary was planned for us taking away much of the frustration and tedium the independent traveler normally faces when he or she spends hours trying to connect the dots between A and B. So my point is that perhaps my perspective would have been different if I were attempting to traverse Tibet on my own. On a tour, however rugged, people tend to be steered towards the things that are most interesting, much of the uncertainty and unpleasantness is avoided, and they leave
feeling as though they have had a magical experience.
Technically, anyone who wishes to see Tibet has to purchase a similar package. It is possible to "sneak” in if you are willing to face some long bus rides and rather dangerous roads. I actually recently met a girl who managed to travel overland between Xinjiang and Tibet. Craig and I however, arrived via the dusty strip of tarmac known as the Lhasa airport.
The moment I stepped off the plane I felt the breathless, lightheaded, panicky feeling one gets at such an altitude. I had expected this to affect me, just not so immediately. Lhasa has an altitude of 11,975 feet above sea level, double that of Denver, the "mile-high city", which is situated at 5280 feet. The altitude has less effect if you are younger, at least in terms of developing life-threatening AMS. The main symptoms we noticed were being constantly out of breath and also the inability to get a sound night's sleep.
Another surprise to me was the arid, brown landscape. I had imagined Lhasa would be buried under mounds of white snow in January, but this idea was no doubt influenced by too
many Hollywood movies. In reality, Lhasa's location on a plateau hemmed by mountains keeps the climate relatively moderate year round.
We met our guide and driver at the airport. They were both Tibetan, extremely knowledgeable about the region, culture, and Buddhist faith. Lhasa has a population of about 250, 000 within the city center. We were told now that nearly half of these are Han Chinese, who are immigrating in waves spurred on by better business opportunities in the area and government incentives. Better infrastructure, such as superhighways and the new railway linking Lhasa with Beijing are also responsible for rising numbers in Han immigrants as well as tourists from throughout China.
Despite this growth only a tiny portion of the Tibetan plateau is inhabited, with Tibetans still holding the majority outside of the larger cities. Most are nomadic herdsmen; others farm barley, wheat, and potatoes. Some of these nomads and villagers only see the city once in their lifetime, if at all.
We stayed in a hotel in the Tibetan quarter of town, very close to the Barkhor, or main square. Despite being extremely cold winter seems to be an excellent time to visit Tibet. There
were very few tourists around, which made it much easier to observe daily life in the city. I read somewhere that during peak season the Potala Palace receives upwards of 1,500 visitors a day. Thankfully for us, it was practically deserted.
The next day our first stop was the Potala Palace. Books have been written on this fascinating building, so I won't attempt a detailed description. A few interesting things that stuck with me:
-Since traditionally the Dalai Lama is both the spiritual and political leader of Tibet the palace is also divided into two sections. The "red" buildings had housed the members of the Tibetan government while the "white" palace was home to the Buddhist monks.
-Tibetans pay a much smaller fee to enter than tourists. Those from outside the city often only get to come once a year. Families, including children of all ages, come to pray and leave offerings. I was amazed to see a small boy of no more than three dutifully touching his forehead to the glass surrounding one statue of Buddha and praying. (at that age my only participation in religious activity included climbing under the pews at church trying
to escape).
-All traces of that "dangerous separatist" the 14th Dalai Lama have been removed, including his portrait. The only sign he had ever lived there was gold fabric, usually conical, wrapped around a cushion and seated in chairs that had formerly been occupied by the his holiness. The swath of silk seemed to be a sad reminder of what was, hollow and empty.
-Before the palace was built there existed only a cave shrine, built by King Songtsen Gampo in 637, the first Tibetan king to convert to Buddhism. Construction was begun on the actual palace in 1645 under the supervision of the fifth Dalai Lama, but the sacred cave remains. Thus our guide's claim that the Potala has 999 rooms and one cave.
-The artwork is astounding. The majority of the previous Dalai Lamas are buried here. Nearly everyone in Tibet is given a water burial or sky burial except for the lamas, who are buried in giant gold stupas. Another amazing piece of art was the giant, three-dimensional Kalachakra Mandala in one of the galleries made from copper and gold.
After visiting the Potala we headed to the Sera Monastery, just outside of
Lhasa. The main purpose of out visit was to see the monk’s debate. This is standard practice every afternoon in the courtyard. On one side the younger monks debate enthusiastically with much gesturing, yelling, smiling, and clapping of hands each time they made a point. The older monks congregated in small groups sitting in the shade and and have much more reserved conversations. Both Tibetans and tourists are welcome to come and watch, though our guide said that since they were using the very technical language of the old scriptures even she couldn't understand much.
The following day we visited the Medicine Buddha wall where many Tibetans come to pray for good health. The wall is a large rock slab covered in painted carvings of the Medicine Buddha and other deities. The rocks in front of the Buddha were literally worn smooth from the prostrations of worshippers. Many were older women and men on a daily pilgrimage of seven miles, circumambulating the city and stopping at various holy sights. Some went with their friends, others alone; some had dogs or grandkids in tow. Nearly all walked spinning prayer wheels of various size and medium, containing within rolls of Buddhist
Jokhang Monastary
The first Buddhist temple in Tibetscripture.
Near the wall was a pagoda made from carefully stacked slabs of rock and wood and surrounded by offerings-carved rock, prayer flags, yak skulls, grains of rice, and beads. A thick cloud of incense poured from a burner near the wall and mingled with the murmured prayers of the worshippers. We finished off the day visiting a traditional medicine clinic, a nunnery, and wandering around market amid stalls selling cloth, giant parcels of Yak butter, household items, jewelry, metalwork, nuts, and other miscellany. It was all a strange mixture of the old world meets the new. It is common to see monks clad in traditional burgundy robes wearing a pair of worn Nike sneakers and talking on a cell phone.
Altogether it was a whirlwind couple of days in Lhasa. Next we are on the road to Shigatse, Tibet's second largest city.
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