Zai Jian Shanghai...part 1

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Hi all,

This blog is about one big Yin (look for part 2 shortly on the yins AND the yangs of two years in Asia) as we’ve devoted this entire penultimate blog to an homage and revisiting, if you like, of our visitors.

For the visitors, we hope you enjoy…for the rest, please read on too…and plan to visit Shanghai at some time on your own. You won’t be sorry!

Christmas!

For our first Christmas when Chris visited, we were still getting the hang of the place, so we really appreciated his help at navigating the city with his excellent Chinese. As a result, it was sheer fun discovering new restaurants, museums and landmarks, and our introduction to Cotton’s, Sasha’s, Dagu Lu, and many museums, including the Art’s and Crafts Museum, were all with Chris. We also took to our bikes with a vengeance, even getting one for Chris on Hefei Lu (and we hope the bike wasn’t tooooo hot...when Roel's bike was stolen this year we expect it made its way to Hefei Lu...talk about Karma!) and in the process discovered Shanghai was a much easier place to get around on wheels. We also ventured outside the city, visiting Hangzhou and Suzhou…and we learned that Shanghai is neighbour to two equally fascinating places with incredible landscapes. In Suzhou we explored the canals and gardens, while in Hangzhou we enjoyed the lake, fresh air and biking around the famed lake of ancient Chinese lore.

Speaking of the Hangzhou/Suzhou/Shanghai hub, with Chris we first realized the challenges of travel in China; in fact we’ll never forget arriving from Hangzhou, expecting to be pulling into Suzhou, and finding ourselves right back in Shanghai! But we finally reached Suzhou (waiting with baited breath to read the station sign!), and then struggled through the challenges of trains and taxis (or, rather, the lack of them)

Our first Xmas in Shanghai, we spent Xmas Eve enjoying a buffet hotel dinner on Nanjing Dong Lu, then walked the Pedestrian Street to the happy cries of red-horned devils shouting “Merry Xmas”, had Xmas Brunch at New Heights on the Bund, where we picked up a turkey-to-go for dinner, and New Year’s Eve at Langhou Temple, Shanghai’s oldest, where we brought in 2008 to the 88 chimes of the Buddhist monks. Thanks to Chris’ visit, we’d learned a lot more about our new environs, and felt more at home as a result.

Shortly after we were graced with Carrie’s and then Craig Sr’s presence…and we got to introduce the city all over again to Carrie, and then take her along to join Craig Sr. in Vietnam for a memorable tour of Hanoi, Halong Bay, Hue and Hoi An (see our previous blogs for reminiscences of that adventure) But Carrie got to join us on our ever-expanding exploration of the city, and we enjoyed taking her to what were becoming our regular haunts: New Heights on the Bund, Yu Yuan Park, and Xin Tian De. But a highlight never to be forgotten was discovering Face Bar, and enjoying a night in one of the most incredibly beautiful old mansions of Shanghai’s past. Sitting at the mahogany tables, surrounded by the deep red walls lit by the flickering candles, it didn’t take much imagination to feel transported back into the Shanghai of the 30’s. Unfortunately the place has since been closed…another victim of Shanghai’s never-ending reinvention…but the memory of it, and seeing it for the first time with Carrie, is a definite yin. In fact, while Carrie was visiting, another one of our absolutely favorite neighbourhood bistros, Zentrals, closed…and Carrie was as upset as we were. But by the end of our two years, the closings of favorite spots would become, sadly, all too familiar, but Shanghai being what it is…a city on the move, and then some…we had more than enough places left and things to do, to keep us occupied 24/7. It was Carrie’s description of the city - New York on steroids-- that we’ll remember most for its apt capturing of Shanghai and its vibe. By the time Carrie left after six weeks, she was becoming a fixture of the place itself, and we’re appreciative of her effort to visit—as we are with all our visitors--as they will forever be part of our best memories of Shanghai.

But the award for top visitors, par excellence, goes to Carly and Craig. These two intrepid travelers braved the trip not once, twice, but three times!! And for their efforts got to experience Shanghai in all of its splendour! Coming as they did at the end of June, they were ‘treated’ to Shanghai’s summer…and then again at Xmas, to its winter. And now again they're back to briefly enjoy the wonders of Shanghai in its summer mode, before moving to Beijing for their own adventure...Carly interning in the Canadian Embassy and Craig teaching at an International School.

But each one of their journeys has been an adventure in itself. We’ll always remember picking up Carly and Craig from Pudong Airport the first time, when they arrived to the throws of Shanghai in a heat wave, and a flurry of people gassing up at the pumps. Since gas stations enter directly onto the highways and the traffic was stop and go throughout the city, tagged onto their flight over the pole was another two-hour drive home from the airport. Then, at Christmas, their flight from Chicago miraculously took-off despite massive snow storms, only to be diverted over the North Pole back to San Francisco due to a “plane malfunction”. Thanks to the efficiency of United Airway’s computer system, we were informed of this upon our awakening the day they were expected to arrive! This meant they almost had to take the trip twice—with the added benefit of an informative pilot who chose to relay such info as his needing to jettison fuel, and not to be alarmed at the sight of it trickling by their windows, even though it was the first time he’d every attempted this maneuver. However, for the second leg the plane flew uneventfully to Shanghai across the Pacific, and was in comparison a mere “hop across the pond,” as Craig put it. Now as Craig ties up loose ends at home, Carly arrived this week on a flight through Chicago and found herself delayed upon arrival by a feverish child onboard who held their plane on the tarmac for an hour (and the people around him quarantined for 7 days) and a random luggage check delayed her for an additional hour. For that two hour period we had been afraid she'd been scooped up in the net, so needless to say we were so relieved to see her finally emerge, one of the lucky ones to avoid quarantine.

It’s Carly and Craig who we have to thank for the locale of our second apartment, as they stayed on in our apartment last summer and discovered the best area of the city—Dongping Lu—and we took them up on their recommendation to consider it. And we’ve loved our second year's neighbourhood, noisy construction and all (but then trying to avoid construction in Shanghai is like running from mosquitoes—both endeavours are enervating and futile) and for all the reasons Carly and Craig did: tree-lined streets everywhere and ubiquitous cafes add up to a simply charming location in the heart of the French Concession.

Thank goodness they even managed to visit Beijing--as for them they got a good intro to their new home-away-from home, and we had a new list of restaurants, bars, and stores to check out in both cities when we returned in the fall, to a sparkling clean apartment—and a beautiful souvenir picture of Shanghai hanging on the wall. And then they rejoined us for our second Xmas, and we tried to revisit all the old haunts, and even discovered a few new ones, one of our most memorable being drinking tea and martinis from the 92nd floor of the Shanghai World Trade Centre, and looking down on the former highest buildings. Plus revisiting Nanjing with them reminded us of how many fascinating cities there are to explore in China, as we felt that we could return again and again to the same ones and still discover something new. Their second visit ended on New Year’s Day, but not until we’d enjoyed Xmas and New Year's Eve at Cotton’s in front of the fire, and Xmas Day at South Beauty Sichuan restaurant. Now as we enjoy their third visit, we're equally happy to have them and excited for their impending adventure, but sad that we don't get to have them with us in the same hemisphere next year...however, there's always skype, emails...and planes!

In conlusion, as Carly and Craig said, they’d missed Shanghai in between visits…and we can only imagine at this point how much we’ll concur. When we first arrived on her ‘shores’, to put it mildly, Shanghai was a bit of a shock to the system. Loyal readers will remember our adjustment was not a linear progression…in fact, we had moments where the two years seemed to stretch out impossibly long in the future. Now, looking back the time seems to have gone by in a flash…and whether that fact is a yin, or a yang is uncertain…maybe it’s even a bit of both. But as you can see from this blog, the number of yins far outweighs anything else, and the one biggest highlight we discovered, was getting to know and share the city along with our visitors…so thanks to Chris, Carrie, Craig Sr., Carly and Craig…for taking that by-no-means small hop across the pond or pole, to create some of our most memorable highlights with us during our Shanghai saga.

So it's with mixed emotions--equally part happy and sad--that we wave good-bye to Shanghai, but what makes us happiest is the thought of what awaits us back home: first and foremost: you all…and then in no particular order, fresh air, backyard barbeques, fresh muffins, you all, fresh muffins, the Distillery District, Lion on the Beach, ABYC…and did we mention, YOU ALL…(and fresh muffins??:-)

So, once again, Zai Jian - Shanghai…we’ll never forget you!

And to all of you….zai xiage yue jian! See you next month!
Amy & Roel

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Photos

Awaiting Craig's arrival...
...and the start of the grand Beijing adventure!

Comments

[Dave S]

was a slice
Aimsey and Roelie.....was truly a pleasure working with you and hanging out every so often to....will miss some of the laughs and the b'n'g sessions we had over a few brewskies....wishing both of you great success in future endeavours....hope to see you back here in this fab city (even if just for a visit) Aimsey make sure Roelsie behaves eh?

[Jim Allen]

Hi Amy and Roel, I have really enjoyed getting to know the Far East a lot better over the last two years through your eyes and ears. Thanks for providing the experiences. Jim

[Jim Allen]

Highways
Hi Roel and Amy, I couldn't add comments to part 2, so came back to part 1- The pictures of the highway construction and the projected finish dates is mind boggling. Amazing what you can accomplish with millions of available workers. Jim

[Carrie]

You did it!
My title, in context, means, that you've managed to summarize succinctly and efficently, yet with obviously a lot of emotion what is probably the 'trip', 'experience' of your lifetime. I was very happy to be mentioned and I was very happy that I did in fact make the 'hop across the pond' because now I have my own personal set of great memories of Asia.

[Sherry Wolfson]

Fantastic blogs, love them all.

[Pauline Sandys]

Major memories
Amy and Rouel, Your memories of Shanghai are beautifully recorded . What an amazing transformation has taken place. ' My sweet memories of being there in 1984 recall a very different scene. I was with a group of US and Canadians. We were looking at international approaches to gifted education. We had to travel with guides. In Shanghai, one evening, I left my hotel alone(and without permission) to explore the quiet, bike- lined streets. Families were gathered outside their buildings along the way enjoying the evening air. I went along a quiet, dimly lit avenue lined on either side with rows and rows of parked bicycles to a department store. I navigated my way to the 5th floor where musical instruments were displayed. I seemed to be the only customer. A very polite gentleman helped me find the one -stringed violin I wanted. (I had heard it played so expertly along the way during the trip). From there I went on along the avenue to a small independent jewellery and antique store. There I found an exquisite pair of antique jade earrings which the proprieter was so happy to sell me. I returned to my hotel on foot. No one had noticed I was gone.

[Sherry]

'living vicariously'!
I really enjoyed experiencing Shangai through your eyes! Thanks once again for sharing! Wishing you a great trip home!

[Leslie Jeanneret]

Dear Amy, I have thoroughly enjoyed sharing this wonderful Asian adventure with you and learning in this latest blog of harrowing obstacles that your family has overcome so gracefully, I feel somewhat awe-struck and wonderfully inspired to set out on a similar trek. Looking forward to seeing you again in TO, Leslie