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Published: December 22nd 2009
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Karst Formations
Absolutely breathtaking Disclaimer - I apologize for not updating for a while. Internet access was non existent while volunteering in Thailand which hit me off my blogging groove. Luckily, my trusty journal will assist in reminiscing the last unbelievable few months of my life.
Statistics were always one of my favorite subjects as a business major and to put them to good use here - About 97.3%!o(MISSING)f tourists decide to take a river raft from the city of
Guilin down the magnificent
Li River to
Yangshou in Southern China. I am proud to say that I was not part of this majority and decided to trek my way down…BEST DECISION EVER.
Disclaimer - The 97.3%!s(MISSING)tatistic may or may not be made up.
The Li River in the Guangxi province in Southern China is a frequently visited site for backpackers from all countries. The relaxing atmosphere of the karst rocks protruding from the water allows for a magnificent few hours to sit on a boat while you are jetted down to your final destination of Yangshou, a lazy town famous for young Western English teachers, stunning countryside and sunny climates. The total journey takes around four hours and will
Waterbuffalo with Calf
On the way down to Yangdi set you back $30, however, if you have some free time and are up for an adventure, trek it!
It all began with a German guy named Matthias. He had just got back from walking the 40k and couldn’t stop raving about it. I was looking for something different, so quickly opted for the idea
Matthias - “You got a tent?”
Me - “Nope”
Matthias - “You speak Chinese?”
Me - “Nope”
Matthias - “You know where you are going?”
Me - “Nope”
Matthias - “That’s ok. Just follow the river”
And with those wise words, I set off on my journey. The river runs directly through Guilin, so ultimately it is possible to walk from the center of the city, but I decided that taking a bus a little south would provide a better starting location.
Problem number 1 - taking busses in China is not so easy without knowledge of the Mandarin language. To add to the annoyances of life, many people tend to ‘alter’ their information they provide based on the hope of getting you on an overpriced minibus.
Innocent Tourist - “Is there a bus to Zhujiangcun today?”
Scamming Chinese Man - “Yes, there is, but it is still in 3 hours. Why don’t you take my mini van there. Just 120Y"(20 times the price of a local bus)
Innocent Tourist - “That’s ok, I will wait”
Scamming Chinese Man - “Actually, today is Wednesday, I forgot, it only comes on Thursdays. Why don’t you take my mini van there. Just 120Y”
Innocent Tourist -“ No thank you. I will ask somebody else”
Scamming Chinese Man(getting angry at this point) - “I have been living here for 11 years, there is no bus to Zhujiangcun. You take my mini van there. Just 110Y. I give you best price”
Innocent Tourist - “I think you are lying to me. No thank you.”
Scamming Chinese Man(very angry at this point) - “THERE IS NO BUS!”
As I sat on the bus to Zhujiangcun ten minutes later, I realized why some travelers fear travelling in countries in which they do not speak the language. True, it is harder, but perseverance and the trust that at least one person will help you out without trying to milk you for cash will prevail and sometimes, well, you just get
One of my rides
I take anything I can get lucky.
The walk began on the West side of the river. The sun glinted,the Li River flowed and I began walking south. Just 38k to go!
Problem number 2 - Walking paths end
Two hours into the walk and I am stuck on the West side of the river. The choice is either somehow find a way to get across, or backtrack the last two kilometers. This is getting way more fun! After waiting a mere 15 minutes, my makeshift river taxi arrives in the form of a Chinese couples barge. Waving my hands in desperation I flag the barge down and point anxiously at the other side. They laugh and proceed to give me a lift…now this is true hitchhiking. Having no change, I provide them with 10Y and wobble on my way. After a few more hours, I master the art of crossing rivers. Five times to be precise. Every time with a new boat owner, from a bamboo raft, to a fully motorized tourist boat. Everybody is willing to do the service to ferrying the lone laowai…especially when some money is involved.
Problem Number 3 - Find a Place to Sleep
After
seven hours of walking, the thought of sleep began to weigh. Having decided that the town of
Yangdixiang proved to be the best opportunity to find any kind of guesthouse, I made my way inland away from the trusty river in search of plunder (any kind of food and rest). To my luck, my first sighting of any other trekking backpackers occurred at this time. They were a couple of middle aged Chinese who had no knowledge of English, yet our common attribute of carrying a large bag brought us closer together. They provided the knowledge of language to find food and rest, while I provided the mahjong. Having learnt this bizarrely interesting Chinese game in Xi’an from a couple of girls, I had gone out and bought a miniature set. As much as I hate to stereotype(I love to stereotype), every Chinese person learnt to play mahjong from childhood, and my two new friends were no exception. We stayed up for 3 hours drinking wine and beer while strategically placing little blocks with Chinese symbols in rows. With as many as 3 words exchanged in English, the Chinese phrasebook came out and the rest is history.
Problem 4 - There is no problem 4. Travelling with Chinese people is awesome.
The walk between Yangdi and Xingpingzhen is one of the most truly beautiful treks I have ever taken. The karst formations which exist on both sides of the river reflecting in the water creates a visual paradise which never becomes boring. My new friends and I walked the next day and seeing the astonishment on all of our faces topped any real need for language. The pictures really do provide some justice to this premium location. Having taken three days to reach Yangshuo provided ample time to take this beauty in and time well spent I say.
Walking down the streets of this little touristy town, it is easy to see how people get ‘stuck’ here. There was easily the most amount of Westerns I had seen in the past two months, menus were in English, a hostel existed on every corner and the sun was shining. I rented a bike for three days and explored. If you are thinking of teaching anywhere in China and you like the sun, Yangshuo is the place. The location gives access to many countries in South East Asia and
it simply rocks. Go out in the wild nightlife which really doesn't stop, or get lost in the wilderness of the countryside, Yangshuo has it all, water buffalo included.
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