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The burning ring of fire

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Asia » China » Gansu » Xiahe
June 11th 2005
Published: June 16th 2005
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Jung Chang, in her 2003 introduction to "Wild Swans" makes the following observations about her visits to modern day China - "Exhaltation and excitement are exhausting. So are exasperation and outrage, which dog my every step here." Well, on a slightly less dramatic level, we know how she feels. In the interests of anyone reading this, I'll save my winge to the end. Our overnight loogie express... Read Full Entry



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Kim Buckley and Richard Baxter
Cumberland Sausage
Cumberland Sausage
Departing shortly from the desk next to that vacated by Sken Like A Ribble Fluke, another couple of Brits, Kim and Richard, attempt to find spiritual meaning and purpose beyond the twin pillars of Dilbert and the next interest rate rise.... full info
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Coy, XiaheCoy, Xiahe
Coy, Xiahe
Tibetan Pop dudesTibetan Pop dudes
Tibetan Pop dudes
Xiahe MonasteryXiahe Monastery
Xiahe Monastery
Yak attackYak attack
Yak attack
Is it a yak or is it a hairy cow ?
Feisty country lassFeisty country lass
Feisty country lass
Houses, LangmusiHouses, Langmusi
Houses, Langmusi
Prayer Flags, Sky BurialPrayer Flags, Sky Burial
Prayer Flags, Sky Burial
Near to the sky burial place at Lang Mu temple in Langmusi.
Nomad, LangmusiNomad, Langmusi
Nomad, Langmusi
(Looks like Dave I has been hitting the sauce a bit too much lately)
Leishas (?) Yak Burger, LangmusiLeishas (?) Yak Burger, Langmusi
Leishas (?) Yak Burger, Langmusi
This is the small variety, costing US$1. The large one costs about US$1.5 and is apparently almost impossible to eat.
Up HighUp High
Up High
Kim at about 4000m or so in the mountains above Langmusi
Mountains and flowers, LangmusiMountains and flowers, Langmusi
Mountains and flowers, Langmusi
Yak HeavenYak Heaven
Yak Heaven
Where Yaks go if they escape Leisha's Yak burger.
From Langmusi GorgeFrom Langmusi Gorge
From Langmusi Gorge
The top end of the gorge walk out of Langmusi - an easy hour's stroll and well worth it.
White Dragon River, Bottom of Langmusi GorgeWhite Dragon River, Bottom of Langmusi Gorge
White Dragon River, Bottom of Langmusi Gorge
This river starts from a springs literally 50m from where this photo is taken. Within a matter of a few feet it becomes quite a large stream.
Monktown, Lang Mu monastery, LangmusiMonktown, Lang Mu monastery, Langmusi
Monktown, Lang Mu monastery, Langmusi
Easy RidersEasy Riders
Easy Riders
Like their Mongolian counterparts, Tibetan nomads either stroll into town on horseback or motorbike. The streets of Xiahe, Langmusi, Zoige and Songpan are full of these chaps hooning around.
The burning ring of fireThe burning ring of fire
The burning ring of fire
Sichuan food, one of the most famous cuisines in China, is notably fiery and spicy. This is the base of the sauce for our excellent hotpot in Zoige.
Monks againMonks again
Monks again
Songpan North gate. Not sure if I like this one.
Big Peak, SongpanBig Peak, Songpan
Big Peak, Songpan
Our map reckons this mountain East of Songpan is above 5500m. I'm not entirely sure but it is certainly well above 4000m. Mont Blanc is ~4800m, Mount Whitney ~4418m and Denali is ~6100m.
Calcified Pools, Huanglong National ParkCalcified Pools, Huanglong National Park
Calcified Pools, Huanglong National Park
Calcified Pools, Huanglong National ParkCalcified Pools, Huanglong National Park
Calcified Pools, Huanglong National Park



16th June 2005

Ali
Ali Watters

The Photos Just Keep Getting Better!
I'm enjoying your journals and photos immensely, even the (justified IMO) whinging :) The Pearl Shoal Waterfall photo is one of the best waterfall shots I've ever seen - keep up the fantastic work!
21st June 2005

Donald and Dorothy
non-member comment

Brilliant
I think the diaries are amazing and very interesting. Are you going to write a book when you get back?
6th April 2006

Franco
non-member comment

Agree with other commentor. Great writing and photos.
14th September 2006

Harriet
non-member comment

Bravo!
By far the most wonderful and unexpected photos on this website. Thank you for giving us a peak into your world.
27th June 2007

Tessa
non-member comment

Food for Thought
I enjoyed your interesting and thought-provoking journal entry and pictures. We've just come back to Australia after a trip that took in Huanglong and Juizhaigo, and two years ago visited Xian and Xiahe. This was my sixth trip to China and it's always fascinating, there is very little I find dull (apart from the obligatory shopping stops at South Sea Pearl or other rip-off showrooms). From the last comment you will realize that our trips were package tours. They were reasonably priced and as nearly everything was prepaid we didn't have the kind of mark-up and extortion troubles you described (or at least we didn't know about them). I agree that this kind of thing is obviously a problem in China and I'm sorry if our type of travel may be making things worse. But I'm not sure what we can do. Perhaps if enough people complain (but to who?) and refuse to give in to extortion, then things may improve, but don't hold your breath.

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