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So, it’s been a bit since I’ve written about my time here. This is the first time I’ve been in my room for more than an hour (without being sleep) for a few days. Let me think about what I’ve been up to…
Last Friday, I met Bart, a friend that came all the way to China to see me. Ok, not really. He is here for work and was staying at one of the three Ritz-Carlton’s in Beijing. All I can say is that hotel is RIDICULOUS. After taking nearly 2 hours to find the place, I walked into the lobby and saw a Black guy in an all-white suit, white shirt, black & white tie and a Kango. He smiled and waived at me across the lobby, and I thought, “man, this hotel is where the players play!” Bart, two of his colleagues and I eventually went to dinner at a nearby restaurant. While the great food was still a decent price compared to the US, I could definitely tell I was in a tourist area. The same 32 oz. bottles of beer we ordered at the restaurant were 2-3 times as much as I paid for them
near where I live at Renmin University. After dinner, Bart and I decided to check out a lounge downstairs in the Ritz, which we discovered is Jackie Chan’s hangout when he is in town. We were welcomed to a lounge act consisting of four lovely Chinese ladies with 2 traditional Chinese instruments, a keyboard and a lead singer. These ladies played everything from Sarah McLaughlin to Michael Jackson’s “Beat It”! Yeah, they were awesome…
After catching up with Bart over a Scotch and cigar, we decided to stop by another lounge in the hotel after the 4 ladies broke our hearts by ending their act. We walked into the second lounge and who do I see? A Black guy dressed in all white! Bart and I chatted to learn Clifford was a musician from California who couldn’t find work in the States, so he moved to China a few years ago. He plays keyboard and performs a mix of Jazz, Blues, Hip-Hop, etc, with a French singer. Clifford said June is his last month performing for a bit in China before he moves and plays in his “2nd home” of Thailand. He was a cool cat and it was
great to talk to him.
Saturday morning, we had a double-header of tours: first was Summer Palace, then on to the Temple of Heaven after lunch. Summer Palace was really cool. Emperors would leave the Forbidden City and hangout at the Summer Palace during the summer where it was cooler because of the lake on the grounds. I would definitely recommend going to this place. You could take paddle boats over the lake, where there was a temple on an island. I didn’t do this because we did not have enough time, but I climbed up the stairs to a throne room and another temple (I believe). It was not for the weak, so I thought. I saw people that looked 80+ years old, family holding them as they climbed up/down the stairs, but they did not care. It was truly impressive to see people make the climb. I’d be shocked to see many Americans, regardless of age, making such a trek.
After a hearty lunch, we went to the Temple of Heaven. It was a place where Emperors would go to pray for a good harvest and weather every year. It was not as impressive as Summer
Palace, but nice. The one thing that was very cool was the amount of people, singing, dancing, playing cards or doing all of the above in certain parts of the grounds. We saw a few groups pushing 100 people each singing a variety of Chinese songs and a couple of large gatherings of people dancing. Most of the non-tourist participants were of an older generation. With China developing and opening its borders more, I hope the younger generations do not forget to learn these parts of their heritage.
Saturday night, I met Bart and his colleague, Sam, near Hou Hai, a large lake that is known for its mass congregation of bars and restaurants that tourists visit. I met the guys at “Guitar Bar” on what looked like a larger-than-normal alley strewn with various shops, restaurants and bars. Definitely a lot of Europeans and Americans in this area. After a beverage, we decided to find Hou Hai Lake. The bartender/bouncer pointed us down a DARK alleyway and gave us directions of “right, left, right left… 10 meters down.” Walking down the alley was a little sketchy at first, but it wasn’t that bad after we followed the turns and
traveled a couple of hundred meters. Once we saw civilization, we had a guy guide us to the lake. Along the way, he kept asking us to visit his “girly bar.” We only guessed what he meant by that and kindly said no and shook him loose once we found the lake.
There were LOADS of establishments around the lake, but there were not a lot of people in them. There seemed to be just as many people walking around as in the bars. It was really odd, after hearing all of the hype about the area. We had a beverage, then called it a night.
Sunday, a group of law students went back to the Olympic Area and revisited our 1st experience of Peking Duck. We ordered the duck along with a few other dishes. Thankfully, the menu had pictures since we did not have anyone with us that spoke Chinese. After lunch we went into the Bird's Nest. It was cool to be in the stadium, but 2 things surprised me. First, it was not near as big as I thought it would be. My guess is it holds 35,000 people, max. Second, we could not
walk on the actual track as we expected. Instead, we were treated to a high-wire act where a couple of guys walked back and forth over the opening of the stadium. We could not tell if the guys had a safety wire on, but it was impressive stuff anyway.
After the Bird's Nest, we went to the "Silk Market" or Silk Street, the largest shopping area visited by foreigners in Beijing (allegedly). This is the stuff you read about: hundreds of boutiques selling everything from socks to necklaces to stereos to Oriental rugs. Think of NYC's Chinatown in a four-story building, add tons more chaos and you have the Silk Market. People yelled and did everything to get you in their booth. "You're hot, you need a suit," or "Want a purse for your girlfriend?" were some of the lines I heard a lot. After a bit, I began to have fun with it by responding, "I don't have a girlfriend. Are you going to be my girl?" It was truly an interesting site and a chance to put into action the skills I learned in my Negotiation class this semester.
Arsene had worked a good deal for
custom made suits (600 RMB) a few days before at one of the custom tailoring booths. I found a gray fabric I liked and let them take my measurements. The lady giggled at the girth around my stomach. (Wench...) As we left, I went to another booth to buy a "designer" dress shirt where Arsene had worked the lady down to 40 RMB. I go there and Arsene leaves, telling the lady to give me his price. I finally find my size, which is not easy, and she begins to give me a price of 380 RMB. After sticking with 80 (for 2 shirts) for a bit, I tell her 90 RMB just so I can leave. After she stops moving down in price, I try to walk out of the booth. She then proceeds to tug on my arm and her friend blocks my path out of the booth. Of course, I'm a foot taller and 100+ lbs heavier than the girls, so I play along I bit before I finally break their grasp and leave. Of course, she finally agrees to the 90 RMB. The market is an interesting experience that I unfortunately know I will have to
experience at least a couple more times (to get my suit fitted, then pick it up).
After class on Monday, Arsene and I visited the "Pearl market" in search of a phone for Arsene. This is basically the Silk Market, but with more booths that sell freshwater pearls on the 4th floor. More of the same and little Chinese women grabbing our arms to lure us in and buy from them. After that, I went back to the Silk Market by myself to get fitted for my suit. I first hustled my way into a pair of Puma's for 60 RMB. I wanted to pay no more than 50, but the extra $1.50 was not worth my time being in the booth. I went to the fitting and was impressed with the feel and look. I might get another, but we'll see.
Tuesday was nothing exciting. We did visit the Ministry of Commerce, where several members of their foreign trade division spoke to us. It was kind of interesting, but nothing to truly write home about. I was fascinated that the federal government gives the provinces and municipalities the ability to authorize direct foreign invest, like building a
plant, depending on the the level of money invested.
Yesterday was class and the Pearl Market to pick up my suit. They needed to take in the suit a little more, but I will be happy with it. Today, was class and a visit to the China Supreme Court. A judge spoke to us for a bit through an interpreter, but it was unfortunately not as promising or exciting as you would think.
Tourists have been the recurring theme at the places I've been over the past few days. I've learned a few things as well. I've seen more than enough tourists to last me my time here... I have been pleased to see more Black folks here in the touristy areas. After realizing China has done a lot of investment in African countries, it was not too surprising to see African businessmen here. But I've seen a several African-Americans in the markets. It makes me proud that we are stepping out of our comfort zones and seeing the world (something that ALL Americans need to do)... Chinese people know English and other languages (particularly at the Silk/Pearl Markets). Some of my law colleagues have foolishly walked around
this city as if no one knows what they are saying. Many Chinese learn English in their elementary school years and, particularly around the campus, continue to study English as they get older. Not all Chinese folks understand everything we say in English, but they can pick out words and get the general idea of what we are saying. Some do not speak in English often times because they are shy to do so (particularly when there is a group of Americans)... Cafeteria food is cafeteria food, regardless of the county you are in... I still wake up between 6-7am, no matter what time I go to bed (or how much alcohol I've consumed). Fortunately, I have no problem going back to sleep... 13 to 35 year-old Chinese men and women all look the same age, which is very disturbing when scantly dressed women walk everywhere around this university... Finding clothes for slightly tall and wide people is possible, but not an easy task even in the touristy places... My back is still not adjusted to how stiff my bed is... I'm still a pushover in bargaining, but I'm tons better than I used to be... 9 days until the
World Cup!
Until next time...
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Melanie
non-member comment
Bargaining
Your shopping experience sounds eerily similar to mine in Puerto Vallarta. Vendors everywhere trying to get you to buy their stuff. I was horrible at bargaining but my Venezuelan friend had no problem getting pesos knocked off her purchases all the time. We had a tough time with the restaurant and bar bouncers trying to get us into their establishments. They would literally grab our arms and drag us into the clubs, even if we didn't want to go in. I can see how it could be scary for some tourists but I was familiar with it from my time in Greece. Also, so jealous you got to see the Olympic Stadium! Glad you're having a good time :)