Day 12 to 19


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March 1st 2010
Published: March 1st 2010
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Well I have been out of range for some time because I've either been in the middle of nowhere, been on a train, been too busy rushing around sightseeing or been ill! I'll try and update you day by day since last time but I'll try and keep it short so you don't fall asleep!

After my last entry I realised it was dark outside and the short walk back from the internet cafe turned into a bit of a scary one. I think perhaps it was because it was my first experience of walking in the dark on my own (it was only 7.30). But I survived the 2 minute walk to tell the tale... security alarm in hand!!!

Anyway, day 12 (22/02/2010) was an early one as we had to get to the Ger Camp which was about 2 hours out into the countryside. Roads were very very bumpy and I was glad I wore my sports bra! (haha)... still the only one wearing a seat belt though suprisingly! Saw a golden eagle and some camels in the snow on the way. Wild camels in the snow is a very strange sight indeed! Got to the camp and it was so beautiful. Mongolia is such a beautiful place I had no idea. Squat toilet was the only thing available but it wasn't as bad as Glastonbury! Strange thing is a lot of the camps we saw on the way had big satelite dishes so they are not completely cut off. 30% of Mongolians live in Ger Tents still and there were certainly a lot in the city, not just out and about. Inside our ger were 4 beds and around a wood fire stove and it was sooooooo warm and lovely inside. Went off to visit the family who lived nearby during winter and they were really nice but I really couldn't drink the warmed goats milk.... i had two sips and decided it was more rude to vomit in their tent than to not drink it all. Did a bit of unsucessful sledging (more fun when you're a kid!), had a very nice dinner (well 2/3 courses) and then watched a really interesting film about Genghis Khan.

Day 13 I woke up after a very odd nights sleep. My blankets kept falling off because of my silk sleeping sheet and although the beds are really warm, they are raised up off the floor and anything that gets left down there is really cold. Breakfast was OK (normal stalish bread with eggs and sausage). Went to turtle rock which is a natural rock formation which looks like a turtle. Our honcho showed us how to climb up it safely but the last biut involved going through a narrow hole. I'm really scared of stuff like that but I pushed my self to do it and although I was shaking like mad it was worth it. Burst into tears on the other side of course but I want to try and get over some of my fears whilst away so that was the first step. Getting back out again was difficult but I managed it with a little help from another claustrophobic person! Got back and dressed up in monoglian dress and did archery, was really fun and i nearly hit the target and was by far the closest out of the girls! Another group of Vodka train people arrived doing a fast track tour. They are all really nice but there are only 5 of them... so glad we had more on our trip! Had a go at making dumplings and I actually liked the ones we had made. Went off climbing by myself to get a good view of the camp. The boys then persuaded me to climb the bill hill behind our tent and the pain was worth it to see the sunset properly. Knackering though... I'm suprised my knees are actually holding out. I wouldn't even have been able to think of going climbing anywhere a few months ago! Had a nice evening session in Chris and Megans Ger as Rob cracked out his guitar (can't believe he is carrying it around the world) and we had a good old sing along till the early hours! Our Honcho really enjoyed it I think. Said a little prayer for Uncle Dennis before bed.

Day 14 was time to leave the camp and go and play ice games on the way home. It was not great as I wasn't happy that the stream was frozen enough. Although it was very shallow I didn't fancy getting a really wet cold foot so I just watched the others slide around for a bit. Bumpy journey back to Ulaan Bataar again. Went to the black market... it was rubbish and about -20 so I was freezing!!!!! Then went off to an all you can eat, mongolian meat buffet which was AMAZING!!!! You just picked the meat and veg and sauce you wanted and then this chef cooked it on this massive hot plate for you and did all sorts of tricks. It was a good end to our time in Mongolia.

Day 15 - Had to get up at 5.15 which was not cool and as there is no hairdrier my hair froze again outside... reallly strange. Got on the train and it was sad to leave our Honcho as he was so cool. I ended up with 3 of the people from the other group in my cabin. They are all really nice but not ideal as I don't really know any of them and one of the girls who is dutch is honestly louder than me! I promise, it is possible! Train very similar to before but toilet hygene is getting worse and the guard was very shouty. He was chinese so actually he was really nice and helpful but shouting is the way they do things here. Hit the border at 7 or so and it again was really really dull and the toilets were locked for hours!!! Everyone starting to get annoyed at being cooped up tgether on a train so didn't have a great night and missed home alot. Saw some cool views of the gobi desert though. At the first stop in China I went to get water from a shop. I don't know why but I expected the Chinese to queue in an orderly fashion.... not the case at all.

Day 16 - Woke up to some amazing views and you could tell we where definatly in China now. The scenery is stunning and I could describe it forever but the pollution was already starting to creep in. Lots of solar thermal panels on buildings though. When we got to Beijing all I can say is WOW! It is so enormous and so clean and modern with crazy old stuff too. I liked it instantly and the hostel is really lovely. Had a double room to myself. Went and had some food and went to the night market and I tried deep fried scorpion... quite nice actually. Felt really safe walking back on my own (even though the boys offered to walk with me) and it has a really good atmosphere here.

Day 17 - Woke up early to go to the Temple of Heaven Park and temples. It was so beautiful and there were loads of people making use of the park doing joint dance classes or thai chi... it was crazy! At lunchtime found a really cool place with lots of locals and then made a quick visit to the pearl market. Started to feel like I wanted to be on my own so went back using the Metro system on my own. Went to a Kung Fu show which was a bit touristy but OK. Then went to a bar in a taxi to have a final farewell drink. I didn't even last one minute and was really sick outside. Very embarassing but the Honcho took me back to the hotel where I went to bed.

Day 18 - Still felt awful but had to change rooms. Went to bed again. Woke up to go to the Olympic site. Wished I had stayed in bed as I felt awful. It started to snow and came back. Went to bed. Really home sick now.

Day 19 - Woke up not feeling as bad but still need to take it easy. Posted some stuff back home and went to Tiannemen Square and a few other bits and have booked my next hostel in Shanghai. I leave tomorrow night. Really sad that I missed out on seeing the great wall but it is just too far to go when you are ill. Hope I feel better for my over night train tomorrow. I am having a great time though so don't worry. Most of the group have moved on now but there are still a few people about. Other people are ill too with fevers as well so not just me which is sort of reassuring.

Thanks for all your messages again. I have run out of internet time now but will write again in Shanghai I hope.

Love you all and miss you lots and lots!!!! Only 0 degrees now so not that bad really! x x x x x x


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1st March 2010

What an intersdting time you have had and I thoroughly enjoyed reading it. I am keeping all your blogs in a file so that I can look back on them. Hope you are feeling better wish I could give you a big hug so pretend this is one. Love you lots and lots. y our ever loving grandm. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
1st March 2010

Chin up - you'll be fine!
Hiya Helen - good to see you're up and about and posting on the blog again. You must be feeling a bit better now - which is good. Your descriptions about Mongolia and Beijing make them sound really amazing - and I'm glad you've tried some exciting things while on your way. Things are busy back home, but we're coping! lol Thinking of you often, Lots of love Moot. :-) xx
2nd March 2010

You made it to China!
Helen, have loved reading about you're exploits and am so glad you've made it to China it one piece. You should be getting much warmer from now on! Not much changed here, just more doom and gloom and cuts! Stay safe. X Bob
26th March 2010

Aw, Helen, I am having to get the old atlas and encyclopedia out this weekend, need to get my bearings on your travel route, Mongolia, Gobi desert, Beijing, camels in snow, Ger tents (like a yurt? will be looking it up), -22 and frozen hair. Frozen hair, love that, I've never had frozen hair, bet you wouldn't recommend it, I would like to see the variety of hair styles/shapes I could create with frozen hair, saves on the hairspray! Tianneman Square an amazing act of bravely and self belief by the student who stood in front of the tanks during the protests. Is it true they have not been able to trace him? You wonder if he suffered repercussions for his actions that day. You are describing the cities of a country (China) I rarely see images of, so I am fascinated to be reading about it through your eyes. China is vast, my sister-in-law is half Chinese (father), half German (an amazing combination, eh?) met and lived in Balldock Herts. I cannot remember where her fathers family came from, when she was 10 (1975) she went out to visit. One branch of the family still lived out in the countryside in a tiny village, where food was cooked communially in a large pot in the centre of the village and she would have to walk to the river along stepping stones to wash. So as you have discovered for us they still have squat toilets out that way and I am sure some old villages must exist. It is great you have had the contrast of sleeping in a Ger tent and normal brick building. I do hope the bug what ever it is you are suffering with, will soon be gone, I guess it's one of the hazards you have to accept on such an epic adventure. Love to you H!! Nicky xxx

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