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Published: June 30th 2012
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CHINA: Beijing...Tiantan...The Temple of Heaven. 700,000 workers & soldiers cleared up snow on 23 December 2002...300 pedestrians were treated in hospital for falling on ice...the highest snowfalls in Beijing in 138 years...and I walked around the Forbidden City that day...in a blizzard!!!
The following day I visited Tiantan...The Temple of Heaven...and three visits over the years I will share in this blog...each quite different.
Considering the magic white setting for my first visit...it is easy to see why it is one of my favourite places...and the symbol of Beijing.
The glossy Beijing book I bought in Tiananmen Square while looking for a fur hat describes it as follows:
"Located in southern Beijing, the Temple of Heaven was built in 1420, during the reign of Emperor Yongle. Covering an area of 2,730,000 m2, it was the sight on which the emperors of the Ming and Qing Dynasties offerred sacrifices to Heaven, prayed for rain and a good harvest." Prime Real Estate in urban Beijing...the city that had been granted the 2008 Olympic Games...readying itself by having the most cranes in the World...time to see Tiantan before its inevitable facelift...in later trips scaffolding evident.
Early start...mighty cold...thermals today...enter from a grotty street...but beyond the wall...people waltzing in the snow...sword fighting...music wafting, happy sack, card games, singing groups, badminton & Korean racquets...and of course Tai Chi in neat rows...Beijing at play.
And no nicer place to do it!
I was in Heaven already!
I will let the pictures tell their own stories...I have amassed a collection of the highlights over the years...many probably familiar to many of you...but Tiantan is more than beautiful lines and arcs of exquisite architecture...it is a place for reflection...for experiencing the ambience and life of the place...a true Temple of Heaven.
We learnt very early on that first visit...it can also be a place of extreme DANGER...yep...ham it up a bit...but have you ever tried to climb marble steps covered in ice...without falling...and razzing yourself???
Workers with wicker brooms sweeping snow from paths...scattering salt on canvas runners on steps...the runners icing up as well...at least I won't break my ankles...these Scarpa boots snug & firm...but the tread makes no impression on ice...yikes...feel like a spider negotiating these stairs!
I bought a pendant in the little shop there...hot drink as respite from the cold...seemed a
pretty cool pendant...so I vowed to wear it for the next five weeks...somehow tattood below my neck...an angry red defined mark on my skin...took months to fade...seemed cool when I bought it!
Then off to Zhong & Mischa's for an extraordinary first Christmas in rural urban Beijing...but that's another story.
My second visit to Tiantan was with Denise...on the first major trip to China that I organised myself...and I wanted to show my true love around.
In those days I had read the Lonely Planet China book from cover to cover...picked the places I wanted to see...then worked on doing so.
I planned and made arrangements under the pseudonym of a Travel Company as:
David Hoo Tours...Your Travel experts with Minimal Experience and Maximum optimism.
This as my motto worked a treat...amazed how wonderful & safe China is as a travel destination.
But first things first...had to find Denise a fur hat...found her a lovely silver fox number...now we are ready!
We entered a different gate from my first visit...worked out really well...things in a different order and direction...entered South Gate & exited North Gate past the Hall of Prayer for Heavenly Harvests rather than it at the start...really glad we did it
that way, as it worked out.
Met a couple of Aussies we had met in our hotel who had joined a Tour Group for the day...walking down the guts of the place...then out...they remonstrating when we swapped stories...we accessing those magic side pavilions you find in these places...and mixing with the locals...no following a person holding a flag for us!
The day was drawing to a close...cold but fine...we hear music...the etherial erhu...the two stringed instrument played with a bow...so we are drawn to the music.
A number of men playing the erhu...spaced on the side of an open but roofed corridor...then the big erhu man in a black fur hat stands...takes me around the corner to join a group of men...singing...each having a go...indicating my turn.
Now I have probably the worst singing voice ever to have polluted the airwaves of good taste. I have a video to prove it...me singing with a blues guitarist for hours in Malacca...late one night...Den's cousin Louella...dragging up young Malays to dance to it...very funny night...and videoing it! Lucky she did so...as I now spare others the horror of my singing...sometimes anyway.
So there I was at Tiantan...with
those men who sang so beautifully...crowd having gathered...and its my turn! The Westerner will now sing...yikes.
Those that have read some of my blogs will guess what happened next...yep...I went for it...my deepest bass...passion dripping from the rafters...plentiful applause...OK who's next?
A truly spiritual experience...we all hugged when it was over...erhu playing...surreal...love this place!
On my third trip to Tiantan I took Denise & our children...Simon just 21 & Anna-Louise then 18.
Start with Christmas in Beijing before Sichuan & Tibet with the kids & 3 other provences with Den...to acclimatise...and for a bit of luxury before the "David Hoo Tour" I had planned for them.
Entered a different gate of Tiantan again...ensured a different experience for Den & I...and most of the temples had been spruced up or renovated for the Olympics...colours sharp and fresh...mighty cold as well.
After we exited went across the road to the Pearl Markets...where Simon was in Heaven chatting up the gorgeous girls flogging all sorts of wares...my kids learning the art of bargaining...and loving it...in shopping Heaven.
Dinner in a little diner down from there...a little primary school girl attracted to our table...practising her English...presenting us
with her photo on a card as we leave...her parents encouraging.
These little moments with local people are priceless...make our travels worthwhile...and the locations...let the photos tell their story.
Relax & Enjoy,
Dancing Dave
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littlewing
Cindy
Another great blog
I always enjoy your blogs Dave..I suspect its the Aussie sense of "She'll be right" and in your case, if its not right, you always seem to make it right :-)