Cambodia - Siem Reap & Angkor

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Siem Reap

17/12/10- 21/12/10

We traveled to Siam Reap by 'VIP' bus for 11 USD each, it took about 6 hours to get there. we booked the bus through the Anise hotel and the (Sorya / Mekong Express) bus company sent a minivan to pick up all the tourists from their accommodation to the bus station. Probably best as there seemed to be about 3 major bus stations but sometimes buses depart from random locations like outside their respective shops for example.

We booked into The Golden Banana Boutique Hotel. It was $45 per night, also a recommendation. Although do not stay in 'Quek' - which is the room we stayed in which is just next door to the water pump which intermittently makes annoying noises throughout the night! Other than that, it was really nice as we had a nice veranda and poolside to relax in and have evening drinks before dinner. 
The Golden banana company have 4 hotels of varying prices in the same little lane so it's very confusing! There is the GB 'resort' (the most expensive!), B&B (cheapest), boutique hotel and a new one called the 'superior' I think (price between hotel and B&B). All except the B&B have swimming pools. The GB lane
is about 5 mins walk to the night Market and 'pub street' where everything happens!

Central Siam Reap itself, we thought was not that attractive but then you go there for the Angkor temples. We think it's kind of sold itself to the tourists, with every shop and restaurant being more or less catered for the western tourist. It's also PACKED with tourists and you generally get offered a tuk tuk every 5 seconds...."tuk tuk sir? Marijuana sir?? Opium sir" follows shortly after!!
However if you do venture out on a bicycle to the villages surrounding the centre it is very pretty and you can see the traditional way of life again!

The Temples

In order to visit the temples you need to buy a 'Temple Pass'. You no longer need to bring a photo as they have their own cameras now but a 3 day pass costs $40 each. You can also buy a 1 day or a 1 week pass.

We decided to have a relaxing day after our bus journey (which is always exhausting because of the constant loud Cambodian karaoke or stand up comedian videos they play!). We organised a tuk tuk for the day (approx $15) with a tour guide ($25/ day) and did the 'short tour'. This means you see the 'big' temples.

I'm not going to write about them all in detail don't worry!!

We really recommend a tour guide. Without one you really have no idea about the history of the temples and how they relate to the country's old religion - Hinduism and subsequently to Buddism and the meaning of all the different sculptures like the nagas, devas (Demi-gods), demons and the Apsara dancers /celestial nymphs for example. Reading the Lonely Planet or any of the other books you are constantly offered, we think does not do it justice.

On the 1st day we were taken first to Angkor Thom - built by the 7th king of Cambodia which has the Bayon temple, the elephant terrace and the terrace of the leper king. The city of Angkor Thom is huge with the above and other buildings contained inside it's gates, Walls and moat so leave a good amount of time to appreciate it.

Then we went to Ta Prohm, also built by the 7th king this is the temple seen on many postcards. Ta Prohm is the temple which is in parts engulfed by tree roots which makes it quite spectacular.  

The tour guide left the best 'til last - Angkor Wat. The biggest and most impressive temple (built by the 2nd king). He led us through the eastern gate to avoid the tourist crowds as much as possible and so that we could see it's impressive western facing facade at sunset - in order to get the impressive photos of it's reflection in the moat.

The next day we took a break from the main temple area and hired another tuk tuk for the day and went to the landline museum which is about 18km out of town (opened by an ex-Khymer Rouge child soldier who used to plant them during the civil war that blighted the country from 1975-79). He now removes them but there are still many remaining and they are still maiming, especially in villages around the Thai border apparently. As it was nearby we also visited 'Lady Temple' / Banteay Srei, which is a small temple of intricate carvings made of a more 'pink' sandstone and laterite (volcanic stone).
We travelled back to the city to climb Phnom (hill) Bakheng - which is a temple situated on a hill overlooking Angkor Wat and the surrounding area. EVERYONE in town it seems goes there for sunset and it is very impressive!

The next day we decided to organise a cycle tour to do some exercise (for once)! Our hotel sorted out a tour guide and he took us on a bespoke tour. It was also his first time! I think it cost around $30 for the day- but we gave a little tip as well.

I think we cycled about 70km in total up to West Baray to see the reservoir (made by starving, overworked villagers during Pol Pot's regime) in the north west back through the city down to the Tonle Sap river in the south.
We took a boat tour on the river to see the floating villages and flooded forest for $15 each. The bikes were very basic with one gear, a bell and a basket but the area is so flat it was not a problem apart from saddle sore the next day!

On our 5th day in Siem Reap we went on the 'long tour' with a tour guide again and went to Preah Khan (used as a buddist 'university' at the time of the 7th king), then Prasat Neal Pean - contained four pools of 'healing waters' and saw the Rolous group of temples that I cannot really remember! We were quite templed out by the end!!

Next we decided to visit Battambang province in Western Cambodia before heading back to PP for Christmas....

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