I heart Cambodia

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It seems like absolutely ages ago since last blog, and its only been 8 days. To be fair though, in those 8 days we have done around 1600km travelling by land (not all in one go obviously - that would be stupid)
Admittedly not all of those many many kilometres were absolutely necessary, but i'll get to that...
We're in Cambodia now and I love it. Such a different vibe to Thailand, so much to take in. This country does funny things to you - one minute you're relaxing and next laughing and next something moves you to near tears, then something makes you smile in the next minute. Its an emotional rollercoaster here.

So we said bye to Tess in bangkok and off we went for another night train stint. I had seen on a few websites and travel books that there is a really beautiful Khmer temple on the border of thailand and the north of cambodia. The pics looked beautiful so I persuade Graham we should go. Despite the border crossings there being miles and a day out of our way and far more remote than the popular tourist crossing Poipet. "Honestly Graham, it will be so worth it for the view. and I've researched the crossing so its fine." Off we go.
Turns out...the temple is closed on the thai side so we cant see it when we get there (its also practically inaccessible from the cambodian side.) Very frustrated, Graham points out to me that whilst the Lonely Planet says the temple IS worth seeing - it also says it was CLOSED at time of print due to the Thais and Cambodians fighting over the territory, There have been shootings between the armys and travellers should check if its reopened before going. Erm... I reckon those pages must have been stuck together when I read the book. Anyways, Graham has taken over the itinerary now. Ha ha.

After a couple of wasted days travelling and in a town with nothing in it but a closed temple, it was down to Cambodia and Siem Reap. We had three days here and it was great. The evenings were really chilled out and the food lovely. By day, the main tourist attraction is Angor Wat - a huge ancient temple complex. It took us two days to go round the whole thing and even then we didnt see everything. Its a really beautiful place. The first day we got bicycles and cycled round which was lovely but with the heat and saddle sore - we got a tuk tuk the next day. We saw the sunrise there also which was lovely but i took loads of rubbish photos so the 5am start seemed a little pointless - Grahams taken charge of the camera now also. Ha ha. The last temple I had to go in alone to look as wally over here lost his ticket and couldnt enter. I wish he had have come in with me though as I got a little lost it was like a maze. I was in there for what seemed like hours in the midday sun. Graham thought it was hilarious when i finally emerged sweating like a horse.

Next we bussed it down to Battambang - two nights there. Went to see a crocodile farm. That was ok, kind of boring though. They dont do much.
The following day was really something. We got a tuk tuk for the day and he gave us a tour. His name was tin tin and he wore a tin tin t shirt. His English was great and that was good because with his careful explanations that tour was wonderful. very moving but wonderful. In the morning we went to the bamboo train for a ride. Its a real simple train, like a bamboo pallet with wheels and an engine and you just sit on it and off you go - it gets up to 30km/h which is fast when you are low to the ground and just sat on a pallet. When a train comes the other way on the same line you have to get off whilst the take apart your train to let the other pass. That was fun.
Then he took us on to a temple on a hill. there were 358 steps to the top so we climbed and climbed and climbed. very hot sweaty work. When we got down to the bottom we had a cold drink with Tin tin in the shade and a chat. He told us that under our feet and all around the base of the temple was a burial ground, that the Khmer Rouge had used the land as a mass shallow grave in the regime in the 70s. That sometimes they still find bones around as the graves are so shallow. I looked around and there were no markings to this site and kids were running around. I wasnt prepared for the conversation that followed. We didnt ask Tin tin to tell us his story, he volunteered it and we were both speechless. What can you say when someone who is no older than your own parents tell you about working and starving in forced labour camps. Eating crickets and anything he could get his hands on which wasnt much. Being the only survivor in his family, both parents and his three sisters died. Well there's nothing you can say is there. His camp was not far from where we were and the hospital he stayed in when he was sick from malnourishment was at the base of the next mountain on our tour. He took us.
I knew the tour involved visiting the killing cave on that mountain, thats what the tourists go to see. But i think i was very naive and didnt know how I expected to feel seeing it. Having such a candid guide as well made it all the more moving. I'm very grateful for his honesty. So on the way we pass the hospital he mentioned. he stopped to tell us more, he said they would give injections using the same needle unwashed for all patients and keep the medicine in old coke bottles. That mostly noone survived in the hospital, he was lucky to have. His whole family died there. Then we drove on to the killing caves. As the hill was so steep, we had to climb on foot, tin tin advised we pay one of the children to show us the way rather than get a motorbike taxi - the children need the money more. Our guide was a beautiful little girl, she was only eleven, she had her friend with her, a little boy of 8. These two gorgeous innocent children showing us things they were too young to be seeing themselves, well it was just horrible. In the cave was a memorial. Two display cases with the human bones and skulls that were left in the cave by the Khmer Rouge when they murdered people. One case was adults and as the 8 year old boy pointed out to me, the other was for the babies. This was too much for me and I had to leave, as we walked down the hill the view was beautifull and the kids that were showing us the way were laughing and running, you just feel realy strange seeing that.
Its important to see these things here but its also hard. As Tin tin pointed out though - he wants to tell tourists his story and wants them to see because everyone should know. It was a hard day but really moving and I'm glad we had the experience. I'm 100% certain there will be much of the same things to see and much worse in Phnom Penn. You try and get as good an idea of the history before you get here but you cant prepare for how you feel. There are mines victims everywhere you look. Children on the streets when they should be in school hawking their goods or begging. People ask for the food from your plate when you eat. But then everywhere you look are beaming smiles - kids were running alongside our tuk tuk when we passed them as we drove back from that tour feeling quite sombre, screaming 'hello hello!' and waving at us. You cant help but smile again despite the heavy day. Thats what I mean by Cambodia being an emotional rollercoaster. I love it here I really do.

We've come down to the coast now - staying in Sihanoukville. Heading up to Phnom Penn in maybe a week.
xxx

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[Becs]

It really is the land of contradictions! xx