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Published: December 13th 2006
Hello!
Tales from the wild continues...
We are currently sitting in a beachfront bar in Sihanoukville, a small town on the Cambodian coastline, watching the sea (Gulf of Thailand, or so we believe) lapping at the shores. The view past our computer is a touch different to our usual work one :-)
The last week has been pretty busy. After leaving Vientiane for Siem Reap - Cambodia (by plane, hurrah), we checked into a nice little guesthouse and met Mr Han, the world's friendliest tuk tuk driver - who didn't even try to fleece us too much! He took us on a tour of the many temples in the area, Angkor Wat being the most famous. The temples really are amazing - huge, ancient and mostly ruined. The jungle is both supporting and destroying most of them, which leads to incredible photo opportunities - although usually overrun by rampaging asian tour groups. It is however still possible to turn a corner and find yourself completely alone, gazing around at the enormous carved stone temples.
They are also home to a few of our most challenging moments to date a) convincing the hawkers that you *really* don't need a 6ft painting of the temples
b) keeping your patience with the, admittedly cute children, who want to sell variously - fans, drinks, rocks, sand...and most bizarrely photos of themselves
c) scaling the steps to reach the top of the temples. Scary does not quite cut it. The steps are so steep they are the equivalent of a ladder. They are also worn away by a thousand years of usage. Eek.
Our most enjoyable day was undoubtedly viewing the temples in the morning, taking a fixed line hot air balloon ride to view them from a height of 200m and finally, and (worryingly) the most exciting - viewing Miniature Angkor. This old bloke had carved an incredible miniature replica of the temples, allowing you to see them as they would have been when they were built. He clearly took a liking to Lucie and, taking her by the hand, offered to show her his 'Huge Coconuts'' at the bottom of the garden. Somewhat bemused, we followed...
We were somewhat surprised to realise he had slightly mistranslated Coconuts. No, not what you're thinking. Instead he jumped up onto a precarious ledge, urging us to follow. Lucie's cry of surprise should have warned Dave but to no avail. We found ourselves looking down on a pit of 50, 6ft long crocodiles. Apparently this is something of a local hobby, which makes you feel no safer in Siem Reap. We obviously started buying everything the children offered...
Leaving Siem Reap we set out for Phnom Penh. You know the bus story already - it was the same as all previous stories!! Sigh.
Phnom Penh is a great city. The temples and palaces are really stunning, though nothing like Angkor Wat! We had a very sombre day looking at the Genocide museum and killing fields, but it was an educational experience none the less.
On a more cheery note, we are pleased to report that Phnom Penh has it's own wildlife to rival our elephant encounter. Roaming packs of feral tuk-tuk drivers, identified by their 'lady, you wanna tuk-tuk'' mating call. It is clearly the breeding season. As soon as you venture from indoors you are surrounded by the pesky blighters, and saying no to the first, in no way implies that you might not accept the second, third, 4011th... even if you explain you are just going next door.
We had an amazing meal at the Foreign Correspondents Club (thanks Chris and Caroline!!) before heading for our beach idyll. After getting off the bus (will we ever learn??) at Sihanoukville we were surrounded by a distant realtion to the tuk tuk's of Phnom Penh. But these are no tame animals... no, the moto drivers are a breed apart. And sadly, the only way to our hotel. The only thing distracting Lucie from her terror as she clung to the back of her moped (apparently it is rude to cling on with knees and hands to the driver - who knew??) with her rucksack clasped between the drivers legs, was the sight of Dave's panic stricken face as he shot past on his own mean machine... Luckily we are both still alive, and already looking forward to the return journey. Gulp.
We plan to spend the next few days recovering on the beach, reading novels and eating ice cream. Thanks to the lovely Steph and James for our Cambodian rescue night - your money has actually bought us 4 days of rescue :-) Strongly suspect Australian prices will be a shock after the last 4 weeks...
Our next few days will include travel back to Phnom Penh, then onto Bangkok for two days, before heading off to Melbourne for Part 2 of the Great Travelling Adventure. We were thrilled to see on the news about the forest fires, and smoke filled city. What timing.
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Moloy
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If ever there was a phrase that should have ahd you turning and running for your lives, the offer from a strange man to show Lucie his "huge coconuts" was it. Shame on you, Dave, for not protecting your wife in a more honourable fashion - frankly you should count yourselves lucky it was only a couple of big crocodiles you were faced with...