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Asia » Cambodia » South » Phnom Penh
September 8th 2013
Published: September 8th 2013
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It’s been an interesting few days since my last blog...and my love affair with this country grows and grows.

The mango trees I bought on Wednesday were planted on Thursday morning. I arrived at school to find the nursery guy and 3 workers breaking up the cement to install the trees – all with picks & shovels.... no mechanical digging equipment in sight. The trees are a welcome addition to the school courtyard, and whilst they are still quite small (they looked bigger in the nursery), they will grow quickly now that the wet season has started. Kahna (teacher) said to me on Friday that when I come back in a year or two, they will feed me mangoes from our trees (not “if” you come back, but “when”)... I look forward to it. I have to say that I’m constantly impressed with the “can-do” attitude of the Khmer people – in Oz, to get anyone from a trade industry to commit to something, you feel like you have to beg them to show you consideration and then pay dearly for the pleasure....if in fact, they show up to do the job. Here, you ask for a service, agree on a price, and it gets done without delay. Love it

I’m noticing a bit of a change with the kids, maybe it’s because they’re growing up, or the world is changing and they’re moving with it. They’re still fun loving, gorgeous kids, but when I was teaching the older students on Thursday morning (solo, as Lida was off taking an exam), I found that some of them weren’t as keen to sit quietly and learn, as they did two years ago. One of the girls also had a mobile phone, which was distracting to her and a few others, and even though I asked her to put it away she kept bringing it out, and they kept playing games on it. In the end, there was nothing much I could do, so just worked with the ones that wanted to learn. I’m also working with 3 of the very young students on their ABCs (recognising and writing etc), and that’s great fun...they’re soooooooo cute and sweet (oh there I go gushing again).

Thursday night I’d planned to go to Seang’s apartment (one of the project coordinators from Projects Abroad who I volunteered through last time), to meet her husband (Sing) and new son (Jackson – English nickname)... When I got there, I was stoked to see Chammy, Sophorn and Danei, also from Projects Abroad. It was a really happy reunion... Jackson was sound asleep throughout my visit as he’s had a virus, so will have to see him before I go – have to have a cuddle or two (and one for you also Annelin).

Thursday was also the day that the monsoon moved in – it had been dry and very hot since I arrived on Sunday, and we’ve had multiple storms a day since Thursday. The bonus, it’s feeling cooler (haha, ie only 32 – 34 degrees now, instead of 35 – 37). The storm at lunch time made for an interesting ride back to school.... Firstly, when Chann picked me up, we had to ride through about 15cm of water, which was fine until someone sped past us and sprayed water over us from top to bottom ( was hilarious, but I can only say that because I had a raincoat on !!). Further into our journey, a car driver turning into a parking space on the footpath, crashed through the bike in front
the new PP....tall buildingsthe new PP....tall buildingsthe new PP....tall buildings

Vattanac Bank has taken over from Canadia Bank, as the tallest building/..
of us !! He survived and stood up with no apparent broken bones etc, but we could see that his large toenail had been ripped off and his bike damage. Poor Chann, he witnessed it all because we were maybe 1 & a half metres behind the bike that got hit – I just heard the crash. We continued on our way, but Chann who normally zips through traffic as he knows I have no fear being on the back of his bike, drove incredibly slowly.....he was obviously mulling over the fact that had we been 2 seconds earlier, it would have been us !! When we got to school I said to him that it obviously scared him and he shrugged his shoulders and played really cool....until I pointed out that he was driving very slowly afterwards, and a big smile swept across his face and he admitted that yes, it really upset him. I thanked him for keeping me safe.......and Friday I again noticed he was driving a bit slower. Oh, and for those who always ask this question....”no, I wasn’t wearing a helmet” – tutt, tutt, tutt....

Turns out the information that I’d been given about there being another election this weekend was incorrect. It was in fact, a planned peaceful protest by the opposition party (CNPR) against the injustice that took place in July at the last election, when Hun Sen (Prime Minister, CPP party) rigged the voting etc. Everyone I’ve talked to wants the PM ousted, and I believe it’s what the country needs. I heard the other day that Hun Sen has received death threats from within the military, and that currently he’s holed up in his house and protected by 1000 special police...... The next election won’t take place for another 5 years, but the hope is that Hun Sen will acknowledge that the CNPR have a lot of support (they won 55 seats this election, and CPP won 68), and that over the next 5 years that he will make improvements in Cambodia, that will benefit all people – even if it is ultimately to save his “empire”.

I’ve noticed so much change in PP – the amount of foreign banks and international organisations that have moved in is incredible. There are a lot of high rises being built, and Lexus cars that were once a sign of status now are considered basic cars (think Camry) and the ‘new rich’ are driving Porsche, Range Rovers and BMWs. It appears to me that the number of cars on the road has doubled in the last two years (I was told by some locals today that I’m pretty close to correct on my observation & that now there are about 1 million cars in PP). Sadly, it doesn’t appear that the majority of Khmer people are benefitting from the growth; poverty is everywhere and the government still doesn’t provide financial support to the elderly or disabled etc, yet the military drive around in expensive cars, and sit in cafes eating, drinking, getting fat and doing nothing.....it really disturbs my heart.

Friday – bumped in to Pam (fellow coffee lover from Brisbane) and her friend Jane; they’d arrived last night with Jo (another coffee lover). We then caught up for sunset drinks at SCC, and dinner at a very popular Khmer restaurant (Romdeng).....Jane ordered spiders as an entree, more for the fun factor, so I tried one of the legs (I’d avoided eating bugs and spiders on my two previous trips – my limit was snake and snakes eggs - yuk), and
with treeswith treeswith trees

"they will grow"
all I can say is that it was crunchy, oily, spicy.......and I can cross that off my list of “to do’s”. While we were at dinner, Jo suggested that we should go to a restaurant that has received great reviews on Tripadvisor – it is called “The Lost Room”....it took me a couple of minutes for it to dawn on me that it’s the last place I had dinner with Tim ...... It was a great restaurant for sure, but I wasn’t ready to go back – in hindsight I should have, because the owners were his friends, but I wasn’t ready for it – next time, “I will go”

Friday afternoon I was invited to a party at the SCC office, in honour of the appointment of a new Director. Theoun, the creator of SCC 20 years ago, has some health issues now, so has stepped sideways into a support/security role, and Rotha (ever-smiling, great fun guy) has moved into the role of Director. I’ve socialised with the SCC team a few times, and man oh man, they know how to have fun....Khmer dancing, loud music (poor neighbours), food, more food, and Angkor beers. The food this time was great – bbq beef, vegies etc dipped in a chilli and lemon sauce (beats the smelly swamp-like goop I had 2 years ago at their staff meeting – yuk). There’s always lots of laughter at their gatherings, good conversation and genuine friendship – I always, always, always feel included and part of the group... As many of you know, I’ve never been able to dance (proverbial two left feet etc), and the other day as I was protesting as they tried to drag me up to dance, they turned to me and said “you can walk, so you can dance Khmer style”...true, so I joined in – all the time looking like an uncoordinated lump of stone... But it was great fun, as it always is with these guys...

Saturday – shopping day....Russian Market - my last trip there was with Sara (Belgian volunteer), and I missed her lots as I had my toenails painted and decorated (it was a shared hobby). I just love the craziness of sitting on a kid’s plastic chair/stool, in the middle of the produce section of the market (fruit, vegies, fish, beef, noodles, flies) and getting my dirty feet decorated with bright nail polish and flowers....all for US$2.

I had to head to Central Market to pick up some tops I was getting made, and it was locked up – only the stalls on the perimeter were open, and not all of them. Turns out that people were afraid to open in case the CNPR peaceful protest turned ugly and opened people up to risk etc. The protest was scheduled from early morning til lunch time, and someone told me they’d open after 3pm. On the way to the Russian Market it the morning, there were police everywhere – every significant street, road and boulevard had barricades and riot gear read....but not once throughout the day, did I see any signs of trouble or danger...

After lunch, we had another thunder storm and thankfully I was back at the hotel.... Now, the hotel when I initially checked in seemed pretty good, but after a few days the internet started playing up, and was rarely able to be used, and another day the tv system got knocked out by a storm (and I had nothing to block out the noise of the karaoke across the road), and I started find it
new estate beside golf course (outside PP)new estate beside golf course (outside PP)new estate beside golf course (outside PP)

check out the shack in front...the rich and poor
had less and less appeal. During the storm, I tried unsuccessfully for about 40 minutes to log onto the net, moving all about the room trying to find a spot with the best signal....all to no avail. I decided to go downstairs and get the guys to sort it out.... They gave me the usual “there’s no problem, it’s working”, so I gave up, climbed the dangerously steep staircase that was now soaking wet and slippery....then, as I went to walk along the walkway to my room, I went A over T and landed flat on my backside on the slippery, wet tiles..... I swear I NEVER fall over at home, only when I’m in the northern hemisphere .... it’s like I’ve got a magnet stuck on my butt, pulling me south!! Ok, ok, am I hurt? Well, my butt is a bit sore, and my right shoulder and arm are also sore, but my neck is fine. That was my first concern, and I cried because it scared me lots. I went to the doctor today (Naga Clinic) and the doc checked me over, cleared my neck of further injury, and said that I’d bruised the muscles along my shoulder and arm. She has me on anti-inflammatories and painkillers, and told me I should consider never travelling to the northern hemisphere again (hahaha – that’s not going to happen). She was really lovely (a Bulgarian doc), and put my mind at ease and we chatted lots about all sorts of things afterwards – interesting lady. Oh, and I was being careful, I knew the floor was slippery, but in true Khmer style, the floor was on a slight angle, and as I let go of one railing to reach for the next, it was all that was needed to slip on the stupid wet, uneven tiles...

So, I decided to move to the hotel next door – it has covered staircases, and they’re not dangerous...the internet works...the owner is an Aussie married to a Khmer girl.......and best of all, I’m at the back of the property and it’s quiet – no karaoke – yea... Oh, and it has a pool, where I spent a lazy afternoon today, talking to the owner’s mum (from Melbourne) and his kids, and it was sooooooo relaxing.

Seang and Sing took me out to dinner last night to a great Khmer bbq – the food was delicious, and it was great to get to know Sing (they got married after I left). One of the sauces we had was a mix of pepper & salt that we mixed with lime juice – it was delicious. I asked about buying some, which was apparently the first time they’d had that request and took them a bit by surprised, and in true Khmer can-do style they bagged up a supply for me. The aroma is really strong though, so it will be interesting to see if I can bring it back to Oz...I reckon a sniffer dog is going to tear my bag to shreds!!

So that’s it, you’re up to date with my day to day life in Cambodia... I have 3 nights left, 2 days at school, and that’s it, I head home. As normal they will have to drag me kicking and screaming onto the plane....I’m looking forward to my own bed, seeing my lovely cat, and my friends, and my scales (I’ve walked many, many, many kilometres this week & I should have lost kilos) .....but I don’t feel like I’ve been here long enough – hard to imagine I’ve been here a week, but also, I feel like I’ve been here forever.

Bye from PP, xx

Rob

Oh, also, I heard today that maybe my replies to comments on travelblog aren’t getting through to the original sender/recipient etc... not sure why


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protest of govt factory workersprotest of govt factory workers
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