busy phnom phen

---

My time spent in Phnom Phen was split up over two appearances. The capital is in the center on Cambodia and all major highways lead to it. The road network extends from the city, but unfortunately doesn't interconnect much outside of it. This means you often have to backtrack to the capital to get to another destination. That's why I went through it twice.

My first time in Phnom Phen was shortly after leaving Siem Reap. I used it as a hub to get to Kratie and Sen Monoram. I didn't see many sites during that time. I went around a few markets and wanted to see the Cambodian side of the city. The majority of the tourists stay along the riverfront. I chose to stay in the center where less venture. The sun was out in full force during those few days. There was plenty of air conditioned internet cafes around that provided refuge during the sun's peak hours. Most nights I stayed around the markets enjoying the local street food. One thing I liked was all the sweets stands. You can choose from several fillings ranging from tapioca, bananas, sweet red beans, jellies and get them topped of with shaved ice. They do a great job cooling you off and give you a little energy rush.

My second time back to Phnom Phen was after Sen Monoram. This time it was very different. The sun was blocked by rain clouds and kept the city nice and cool. I was able to be out and about at any hour. The sites that I wanted to see were not the most "feel good". I went to see Tuol Sleng prison (S-21) and Choeung Ek (the killing fields). Both were major sites for the Khmer Rouge's genocidal acts during its reign. I've been reading a very good book on the subject, so seeing these in person put it all in to perspective. S-21 was a former school that was converted into a prison for "enemies" of the Khmer Rouge. It is estimated that up to 17,000 people were kept within its walls during the 1975-1979 reign. Only 7 were alive after. Within the walls, prisoners were tortured and forced to write and rewrite pre-made confessions of their guilt for being against the Khmer Rouge. Some of these were only a few pages long while others were a few hundred. This would prove their guilt and provide conspiracy theory links to other Cambodians to interrogate. Many died in Tuol Sleng from disease and their injuries, but the majority was taken to the prison's execution camp, Cheoung Ek (the killing fields). These people were not killed with bullets, but instead were hit with ox cart axles, steel pipes, or anything else around to save cost. They were dumped in mass graves and the site was kept secret from everyone. It was a former orchard and when you go there today it still has a peaceful feeling, even with it horrific history. In the center is memorial that house several skulls of the victims. You can see several fractures and breaks from their execution. It is set up for you to see what happened and to not forget.

During the Khmer Rouge's reign it is believed that Cambodia suffered a loss of up to 3 million people. Many died from camps, prisons, over-working and starvation. This is huge percentage considering that at that time Cambodia's population was only 7 million. Today it is at just under 14 million. When talking to people here you can tell that they have healed as much as they can, but in no way have forgotten their past. Cambodia is a country on the rebound. It is developing quickly. Their infrastructure is expanding and they are having a tourism boom. Hopefully it will remain this was for along time. It is hard to guess what their future will be like with a history of instability and violence. All you can do is hope that their leadership will not make the same choices as before.

Next stop Vietnam.

---

Comments

[james kim]

ahhhhhh
Hey E, those prisons look real scary. ahhhhhhh! miss ya buddy! james