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It is the wet season in Cambodia’s Siem Reap. I woke up last night to another downpour of rain, but one to remember. The streets were flooded like I have rarely seen before and the official water level measure was 29 centimeters. This morning, my last in Indochina, tuk tuks, motorbikes, and cars spray pedestrians while driving. We start a few minutes late, as Thiep and the driver got stuck behind four water buffaloes on the street, who simply did not want to move. We then head to the ancient temple complex of Preah Khan, named for the sacred sword owned by the 9
th-century king, Jayavarman II. It functioned as a monastery and religious college. It is also believed to have served as a temporary capital during the restoration of Angkor Thom following the city’s sacking by the kingdom of Champa in 1177. One of the main highlights is the Hall of Dancers, so named for the exquisite apsara bas-reliefs that line the walls.
We also visit the temple of Prasat Kravan, one of the smaller temples in the complex, comprising five brick towers and dedicated to the Hindu god, Vishnu, and Preah Neak Pean, one of the most unusual
temples at Angkor. It is built around an artificial pond surrounded by four smaller square ponds, usually dry except during the rainy season, meaning now. In the center is a circular island with a shrine dedicated to Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara (good luck pronouncing his name) who, according to Buddhist mythology, transformed himself into a horse to rescue shipwrecked sailors from a sea ogress. This last one concludes the visit of the most magnificent temple complex in the world. It is lunch time and my trip is supposed to be over. However, Thiep and I are having a great time and my flight only leaves at 7:00pm. He wants to keep me company for the rest of the day and suggests a visit to the floating villages of Tonlé
Sap. I buy him lunch and we share a few things about our lives.
The Tonlé Sap ("Large Fresh Water River", but more commonly translated as "Great Lake") is a combined lake and river system of major importance to Cambodia. It is also the largest freshwater lake in South East Asia and is an ecological hot spot that was designated as a UNESCO biosphere in 1997. The Tonlé Sap is unusual for
two reasons: its flow changes direction twice a year, and the portion that forms the lake expands and shrinks dramatically with the seasons. From November to May, Cambodia's dry season, the Tonlé Sap drains into the Mekong River at Phnom Penh, the country’s capital. However, when the year's heavy rains begin in June, the Tonlé Sap backs up to form an enormous lake. This is why the people on and around the lake live in floating villages. We take a boat trip and it is very impressive. We see men fishing, women bathing, kids swimming, mobile grocery stores, a church, a school, a monastery, snakes, and even crocodiles. It’s another wonderful afternoon. Thiep takes me back to the hotel to change and take a quick shower before my evening flight. I give him a big tip as he has been my best guide by far. He gives me his card so we can keep in touch and hug each other warmly. We wave goodbye and the gate to the international departures closes behind me. This is how it ends, but I just made a new friend.
Are you filled with a spirit of adventure, but sticking close to home
because you lack a like-minded companion? I was a bit apprehensive at first, but can tell you now that solo travel is an extraordinary and rewarding opportunity that can involve big or small adventures. You can do what you want, when you want, how you want, where you want. I picked my own pace and was able to change my mind on a whim, never having to negotiate. The experience was liberating and thrilling, igniting a rewarding sense of accomplishment, and the complete detachment from my “real” life was very therapeutic. When I entered a new place on my own, I noticed so much more than I do when I travel with others. I strike up conversations more than I do when I’m solo and have met so many nice people. The freedom of being far from home also released inhibitions in wonderful ways. I know now that gratifying solo travel comes from following your bliss. Don’t let societal pressures rattle you. Don’t let loneliness paralyze you. Educate yourself so you know what you can, and cannot, do. Most of all, embrace the possibilities before you.
I have travelled to many places and this trip definitely ranks very high
on my list of best experiences. As Henry Miller said, “One’s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things”. And right he was. I would also like to thank all of you who have taken the time to read my blog (as of now, it has over 700 hits) and share my experiences. You made it all so worth it. Until next trip…
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