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Originally I planned only to stay four nights in Siem Reap, however I couldn't quite fit it all in, so decided to stay a fifth so that I could visit Beng Melea. May I just say, this was the best decision I could have made.
Beng Melea is an hour and a half drive from Siem Reap which means it's nowhere near as crowded as the Angkor's Vat and Thom and off the beaten track of most tour groups who'll take you to Banteay Srei and Ta Prohm. This is part of the charm. Although there were other tour groups while we were there, the tourists probably numbered about 20.
Our tour started at the West gate which has a spectacular tree growing on it, in much the same vein as Ta Prohm. The entryway cannot be used though as it is completely full of rubble. This temple, unlike many of the othre in Angkor has not been cleaned up nor is it being restored. At present it is being left to show people how many of the temples looked when they were rediscovered in the 20th century.
After dodging some biting ants and the small brown frogs,
our tour gradually made its way around the side where even more of the temple lay in ruins and we could climb over the wall to get inside Beng Melea. The first building we see is a library where one wall is almost totally covered with a strangling fig tree. At this stage of the tour we've also picked up an escort of local village kids, unlike yesterday's experience, these kids aren't trying to sell us anything, but do try to steal the tour guides thunder by pointing out items before he gets a chance to!
We wander around the library and across some fallen stones before heading into a dark tunnel. This tunnel is part of the inner corridor and apparently at some stage during it's life would house wild tigers. Thankfully no tigers were inside today and we passed rather swiftly through to the other side to get further into Beng Melea.
The inner section of Beng Melea is full of half collapsed buildings. The centre tower is almost completely fallen down but it's still beautiful. More libraries are inside as well as a parthway to make it easier and safer for us to get around.
That being said, we do go off the beaten track a little and have to climb up some rubble and then walk across the top of a fallen wall to get back onto the pathway at the top that looks out down the courseway from the south gate. I have quite a fear of heights so walking this small section of wall really gets the heart pumping.
Beng Melea is so peaceful in contrast to some of the other temple areas. Even a Chinese tourist giving the local kids whistles didn't stop the sirenity of the place. The kids blew them once or twice at first but then just kept them tucked into their shirts.
Beng Melea will probably be the strongest memory of Siem Reap and by far my favourite temple of all. Even though there's the occasional biting ant, some cobwebs with rather nasty looking spiders and it's a bit down and dirty, it's a brilliant adventure and it's a relief to know that all the landmines were cleared from the area in 2007.
If you enter or leave via the South entrance you'll see the moat filled with lotus plants and a rather amusing
translation error on the landmines cleared sign which makes it sound as though the German government sponsored the landmines, not their removal! Woops!
Tips for Beng Melea:
1. Do every other templ you want to do first, after this one, anywhere else will be a disappointment.
2. Not for the faint hearted and if you book through the Villa be prepared to do some climbing.
3. Wear long pants and spray insect spray on your shoes and on your ankles to stop the ants from trying to climb up.
4. Be nice to the kids, they're lovely, not pushy and fun.
5. Be prepared to take a lot of photographs!
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