Boat Problems, Marriage Problems, Gastro-Intestinal Problems and The Magic Of Angkor Wat

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A decision had to be made while in Phnom Penh, take the bus or take the boat to Siem Riep. The first travel shop we visited quoted us prices as if we were purchasing a boat or bus, stating that because it was Chinese New Year everything was booked, while the second quoted us normal prices $11 bus, $34 boat with lots of seats available. The boat trip had a bit more allure (I watched Apocolypse Now not long ago so the thought of a boat trip in this part of the world is exciting) and Mandy agreed. So at quarter to 7 in the morning my hotel phone was ringing, our driver was a half hour early. We were as good as ready and were swept to the docks in the early morning glow. The boat we were herded onto, with loads of Europeans, was nothing like the one in the brochure. I already felt cheated, then they gave us our meal, a demi-baguette and a 600ml of water, now I felt more cheated. My excitement for seeing the Cambodian countryside was already subsiding. Then the diesel fumes came to join us, then one of the workers tried to move us to the back because he had more people coming at the next stop. We rudely told him that we were not moving until Siem Riep. We did pass some floating villages,smiley waving fshermen on longboats, children running down the shoreline frantactically waving. Rural life we did see and we did meet some fellow travellers, so some of the romantisised things about boat travel was present.

The villages stopped, the river got narrower, only a few huts, a few cows and a few people to be seen. Now the map in my guidebook shows a large lake between the two rivers from Phnom Penh and Siem Riep. It is dry season, the river is low. In fact in Phnom Penh we had booked a tuk tuk to meet us at the docks 15kms outside of Siem Riep because the water was to be too low . It was a beautiful day, the sun shining, many of the passengers were perched atop the boat (there are no seats you just jump up and sit on the roof). The river got narrower, the boat slowed. We weren't idleing but we were slow when the right side of the boat (that be starboard) jarred against the river bottom. The other side went into the air and with the weight of the passengers on the roof the boat rocked to each side a few times. I remember standing up to make a run for the door as the round bottomed boat was rocking. It settled, lobsided, on the river bottom. We were all shook up, me especially. I am uncomfortable with water and was not looking forward to being stuck in the middle of a river, or being upside down in a river. The staff moved the rooftop people to the inside then the staff stripped down to their unmentionables and jumped into the water. With the engines in reverse and a few staff pushing with poles we were floating once agian. So for the next 3 hours I sat in my chair, my nerves hurting, while Mandy slept with her mouth open (I gave her some pills cause she usually gets sick on boats). Our 6 hour boat trip took over 7 hours and made me promise no more boat rides on this trip (except Halong Bay if I get there). There was a man holding a sign at the docks that read 'Mr Gifton, Mrs Mandy''. We shook hands and jumped into the back of the tuk tuk. On the way into town we got stuck behind a funeral in which everyone was wearing white, driving scooters and following a large float with a coffin and flowers on it. It took a few tries to find a guesthouse (it's Chinese New Year) and once we did we had no time to relax as we had tickets for the Angkor Wat Temples to purchase so we could leave early in the morning. Our tuk tuk driver suggested we go to see the sunset at the temples, we agreed and soon found ourselves in a large mob of tourists on top of a temple facing west, while the sun slowly dropped. We admired the scene and enjoyed the peacefulness once the tour groups left. We walked down the hill in the dark to find our driver. We got dropped off in the town and walked back to our guesthouse with plans for a 5:30 am pickup in the morning so we could witness the sunrise at Angkor Wat.

I hadnt been feeling so swell that day and by the time bed time rolled around I was the proud sufferer of my first case of travellers diarrhea in Asia. Now I have two places on the top of my must see list, one is Manchu Picchu and the other is Angkor Wat. So when the morning came and my condition had only gotten worse I had no choice but to stay in for the day. It was a strange feeling to be so close to something but unable to just go achieve it. I slept, popped pills and try to stay hydrated. At first I was upset for the unforeseen change in plans, but once I thought about it I realized that I would just have to spend a few more days in this town. The next morning brought the same situation. Mandy kindly played nurse by providing me with some pills and some Chinese medicine tricks. She claimed by releiving the pressure points on the palms of my hands and pressure points on my feet would help solve my interior problems. My GI track was still a mess, but my hands and feet felt great and I slept well that day.

After a couple days of a healthy diet of water, Coca Cola, sweet Khmer coffee and Cambodian chicken noodle soup. I was feeling better and ready to see the sunrise at Angkor. I was picked up by my tuk tuk driver at 5am. In the early cool before dawn I was walking across the bridge, over the moat, and onto the Ankgor Wat grounds. We found a spot facing the temple and the water in front of it and just waited. Sure enough the sky began to brighten, the sky began to glow above the temple peaks. I got my sunrise picture and we just tuk tuked around for the morning, seeing diferent temples and different sights. We visited many temples, met many people and took a short cut down a little dirt road through a little village. We waved to the little children walking from school, admired the little stalls selling only a few things. We meet many a tractors with fatbeds , bicycles and motos full of people, food or whatever else needed to be transferred, on the narrow rural roads.

While at any of the popular temples in the Angkor Wat area you will meet many of locals selling a number of things. On my predawn morning I met a woman that goes by the name of Lady Gaga who worked at a food stall. A teenage girl named Corn that sells artwork and was a real charmer (I bought a wonderful little oil painting from her). And so many children selling postcards, bracelets, flutes and keychains. The children can be a bit pushy at times but most of them are charmers. Most children ask where are you from. As soon as the word Canada leaves my lips the blurb begins. “Canada, capital Ottawa, Torornt big city, Vancouver, Montreal, two language, very cold”. So I guess they study about our country in school. One sales boy with a big smile told me the capital of Canada was Berlin, maybe he shouldn't be selling things and be back in school.

Here is a story for my mom. I now she already loved the rocking boat story, so here is one she will love even more. While walking a dirt road out of one of the busy temples, I heard a commotion. I looked to see two memebers of the landmine victim band in their purple uniforms screaming and running towards me. I glanced down to see a large snake slithering across the road about 6 feet in front of me. He was about 5 feet in length, and a product of the devil. Just before he got to the safety of the forest line a shoe was thrown at him from one of the band. It hit the snake in the head then he hurriedly slithered into the bush we two men hot on his tail. A guy asked me if it was a cobra, I said I didn't think so cause they have large heads, right? He said that cobra meat was worth about $30/kilogram and that was likely why the guys were chasing it.

After my snake experience I went back to Angkor Wat for a final look. It was really hot, it was 10:30am. When I came out to the hodge podge of tuk tuk parking I found my driver sitting with a friend drinking a beer. I joined them and accepted their offer of a beer. In no time we were having an international male talk and drinking beer on a warm day. It's funny how we are all the same in so many ways. We talked girls, cars, motos, work and music. It was Nam's birthday and I got invited to his party that night. My driver, who goes by the name of G was to come get me and bring me along. I will never forget listening to Justin Beiber and Michael Jackson on the tuk tuk and drinking cold Crown beers with Angkor Wat as the backdrop.

My travel comapnion of 6 days, the wonderful Mandy, went back to China but she has left her mark here at the guesthouse. We have a similar sense of humour, thats why we get along well. The front desk staff were asking where her boyfriend was (we are not involved) and she told them that her husband was sick in bed and that I purchased her in Vietnam a few months ago. She didnt tell me this for a few days and I thought the staff were treating me funny. They always seem to have a certain smirk or a funny smile when we chat. When she left they kept offering me a good Cambodian girl. Maybe they felt sorry for me for my wife leavig me. It makes more sense now and I already miss my crazy travel companion.

So I got to see the Angkor Wat that I've wanted to see for some time now. It gave me some magical moments like on the second day when I had an early start and went to Angkor Thom and had a temple to myself for a bout 5 minutes. I've got to meet some great people like the tuk tuk drivers, the salespeople at the stalls. We stopped for a beer one afternoon and sat with the two girls working as they laughed, joked and try to sell me such things as womens clothing and funny hats. I really enjoy the people here. Most people are funny, charming and just seem to smile alot. I've been in this town much longer then I planned but hey it's been great. The place is beautiful, the people are beautiful and hey I made a few local friends.

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