"I practice my heart."


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November 6th 2009
Published: November 6th 2009
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I had a conversation about religion yesterday with a Cambodian woman who happens to be Muslim. I suppose that in a country that is 99%!B(MISSING)uddhist, being in the 1%!m(MISSING)inority has its drawbacks, and there has been persecution over the years. Given the current world attitudes, fears, and misunderstandings about Muslims and the risk of more persecution, she chooses to remain private about her faith. And as she said so eloquently, "I don't practice my religion. I practice my heart."



Speaking of hearts...

Ponheary's niece is getting married and the wedding has been the focus all week as preparations were being made and family members from out of town came to stay at the guest house. The wedding festivities began Thursday afternoon and will continue on into Friday night, and we have been privileged enough to be invited to everything. But not only are we invited to attend, Jaz is the bridesmaid. Such adventures we have had in relation to this wedding - and trying to understand what happens when and what we should expect or how long it might last is a completely impossible task. First we were told that we should come to the wedding on Thursday night and the party on Friday night. Then we were invited to come to the party on Thursday afternoon at the bride's family's home. We were also asked to attend the Friday morning processional ceremony when the groom "comes to take the bride" but 7:00 am was too early for us. At one point lunch on Friday was mentioned, but never again after that one time. We were told to go to the party on Friday at 7:00 pm, then it was 4:30 pm, and now we think it might be 4:00 pm. The answer depends on who you ask, and when. Mostly, we just try to be able to get ready at a moment's notice to go somewhere for some reason, and I try to keep my camera battery charged at all times.

And what to wear??? Jaz had been instructed that she needed two outfits, one for Thursday and one for Friday, so Ponheary's aunt made her a traditional sarong and a satin embroidered top to match. Then a maroon silk hooker/prom dress was presented on Monday for her to wear on Friday, so she went out to buy hooker/prom shoes to match. Two hours before the Friday events, Ponheary's sister asked Jaz if she had tried on her dress. "Of course, days ago. you were there, remember?" But no no no, Marina was referring to yet another dress of gold satin, that had possibly been sewn that morning. Marina and Areni chased Jaz off into her room with the new dress, happily closing themselves in there with her, and noted what adjustments had to be made.

As I write this, Jaz has been taken off to the salon to have her hair and make-up done. Hair and make-up for weddings is serious business here; I'm sure the length of the false eyelashes denote some kind of status, but I don't know what. I followed Jaz to the salon but left after a while, thinking it would be more fun to see the final result all at once. I hope she gets back soon; I'm afraid she will suffer hairspray toxicity if she stays there too long.

Mim was smart enough to bring a dress, so she's been all set for wedding attire. Steve could get by perfectly well with khakis and a button-down shirt, which he thankfully brought. I was completely out of luck, having brought nothing but a handful of T-shirts and lightweight pants, but Lori and I are close enough to the same size for me to be able to wear some of her clothes, and she generously lent me a sarong, a blouse, a scarf and appropriate sandals.

The wedding events we've attended so far (Thursday afternoon and evening) involved lots of people visiting at the bride's family home while the bride and groom posed for photos with each other and with various family members and guests. There were several costume changes for the bride - first a yellow gown, then pink, then blue, then white - and two changes for the groom. Jaz pointed out that the groom looked like a tortured zoo animal, and she was right. He looked uncomfortable in his peach-colored satin costume with various pleated skirt-like layers and a cap that looked suspiciously like something you would wear while cooking french fries. He dutifully posed when he had to, but most of the photos involved the bride, not him. And of course we were all invited to have our photos taken with the bride and I was encouraged to get close with my camera to take photos of everything. "American lady - come here, take picture!"

There was a brief ceremony in the house but the afternoon and evening "events" mostly involved the women sitting around on the floor chatting and drinking tea, while hundreds of carefully-posed photographs were taken of the bride and groom and various guests.

While all this went on inside the house, outside there was a feast of chicken and rice and curry. While I sat inside and took pictures of the women and children, Steve stood outside and took pictures of the food. And as with all weddings, there were little boys running around raising a ruckus and little girls staring wide-eyed at the bride.

I need to get ready for the next event soon - we leave in either 15 minutes, or 45 minutes, or 3 hours. And we'll be back an hour, or three hours, or five hours later. And we might eat, or maybe we'll dance, and perhaps we'll do something else altogether. I think Jaz will be standing with the bride, or maybe she'll be sitting with us. She'll probably wear the gold dress, or the maroon dress, or jeans and a t-shirt for all I know. We'll see.

As Lori pointed out, getting everyone to be where they need to be, at the time they need to be there in this country is far more difficult than herding cats; it's like herding blind, developmentally-delayed cats.

Meow.

The collection of photos so far can be found here



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6th November 2009

"I think Jaz will be standing with the bride"
Are you very sure that Jaz will not be the one getting married?
6th November 2009

wedding pics and more
I can't stop looking at the pics!! More people should practice their heart. Looking forward to more, your writing makes me feel like I'm there with you!! Mom
6th November 2009

siem reap
Hi Jess, Its Brendan styles here, (just joined travel blog.org and looked for blog entries from cambodia/vietnam/thailand and came across your blog entries and great photos on picasa), as we will be travelling through S.E Asia in Dec, as part of our 3mth honeymoon/adventure trip. We will be working with different orgainizations, visiting development centers, orphanges, our sponser children and looking to connect with other travellers like yourself are helping where you can. We will be in Siem Reap for a day or 2 and would be great to hear some of your stories first hand. All the best with your blog writing and english teaching! Rgs Brendan

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