Advertisement
Published: October 5th 2009
Typhoon Ketsana has a lot to answer for, curses to all weather Gods! I have been rained out of Siem Reap and am most disappointed. Oh woe is me.
Arrived Thursday evening to find the whole city calf deep in murky brown water, hurrah for my omnipresent good luck! My moto driver (curses to him too) delivered me to a hotel which was most certainly not the one I had asked for, however the thought of jetting back off through the floods did not appeal so I bit the bullet and took an overpriced (and distinctly grotty) room. Quietly sipping a beer and ruminating on my bad luck (very selfish of me when locals were sitting eating their dinners with a foot of water sloshing round their feet, but there I was indulging) I was jolted from my bout of self pity by Jo, possibly the most animated person I have ever come across. She'd had a particularly interesting experience revolving round hungry children, local to rescue, trip to orphanage followed by invitation to join her for temple tour upon the morn.
5 am next morning we stood awaiting our guides, forgoing the usual comfort of a tuk tuk
Sunrise at Angkor Wat
A very spiritual moment, even Jo (possibly the most garrilous person on the planet) was speachless.we were to be escorted round the ancient wonders seated upon the rear of two moto's. The logic behind this escapes me somewhat but it did encompass the giving of money to locals who most needed it. Our guides were somewhat late as they had been flooded out of their home overnight and sunrise was fast approaching so, with no time for second thoughts we removed our shoes, rolled trousers to our knees, and set forth. Slipping and sliding through the floods we made it to Angkor just in time for sunrise. I have no words to describe the feeling engendered by such a spectacle, guess you'll just have to come see for yourself. Rest assured it will be worth the effort.
A whistle-stop tour of Angkor Wat and on to Bayon, where enormous heads glare down overseeing the tourists as they clamber over the crumbling ruins. After wandering around for a short while we left to meet our guides. Their instructions to us had been to meet at the other side. To me, this meant heading straight through the temple and emerging at the opposite side, unfortunately to our guides this had meant await directionless tourists around the
corner to the right. Naturally then we missed each other and it was to be a good few hours before we would reunite.
Nothing daunted (well, alright, maybe a little daunted) we stopped for breakfast and then continued our exploration of Angkor Thom. Just as we had completed a circuit of the elephant terrace (which the king once used as a grand viewing platform during ceremonies) and were debating our next step, low and behold our guides whiz up behind us berating us severely for having given them the slip.
Consoling them with a cold drink we made our way out to Banteay Srie (meaning citadel of women) and (according to LP, so most probably a fallacy) it is said that due to the intricacy of the carvings it must have been built by a woman. Whatever, it was certainly incredibly beautiful. Just a shame about all the other tourists, imagine having the cheek to want to see the temple at the same time I did, it was a bit of a crush and I got a bit cross (as cross as I ever get, which basically meant grumbling inwardly whilst smiling at all and sundry wishing them
Bantreay Srei
Beautiful temple to blazes as I wave them in front of me for photo op).
Skipping out the in entrance we managed to avoid the worst of the touts and returned for the pinical of the day. Ta Prohm. Perhaps known to some as the temple starring in tomb raider, this crumbling ruin has been overtaken by jungle. Enormous tree roots weave their way across, through and over walls making for an incredibly atmospheric trip. Of course, before we could even see this we had to negotiate a fast flowing river of water with (once again) trousers to knees and shoes in hand (I have some great photo's of this but stupid camera took them in notebook mode which means upon the camera they must stay, so you'll just have to imagine). By this time we were accustomed to the manouvre but our ever so helpful guide decided to announce that we should watch for snakes which may be lurking in the depths. Fab, just what we needed to know, as unidentifiable objects came and went from beneath my feet I determined to deduct a vast sum from his forthcoming fee to thank him for imparting this information at such an
Filling up Cambodia style
Note the lady in pyjamas, common day wear around here. Immagine my delight when I also saw a lady all dolled up for a night out also wearng pyjamas. If ony I could get my tongue round the language here I'd move over in a shot. A night on the tiles in PJ's, sheer heaven! opportune moment.
During our stop for lunch we had been subjected to the hard sell, only $200 and he could build a toilet for his gran. Then (to throw us completely) came the announcement that he was gay and could we send any gay friend we may have over to stay with him please as he is available and looking for Western love. Anyone keen to take him up on this kind offer would be well advised to think again unless they are very rich as the impression I got was not so much the looking for love as the looking for mealticket vibe.
Next day the river thought to burst it's banks, this meant that although many areas were drier, the water around our hotel was infact rising. Disheartened by the dismal accommodation I swithered over staying and finding something better or retreating to Phnom Penh for a few days. Phnom Penh won.
The bus journey there was fab. Jo, being blond and beautiful immediately caught the eye of our 6 year old neighbour and so commenced a journey of fun and laughter. A game of snap then caught the interest of another traveler who came
Cambodian Medal
Made and gifted to me by the most charming 15 year old I have ever met. over to join in. I, succumbing to my usual travel sickness after but three rounds had to swiftly declare myself out (thus letting down the Scottish side, apologies to all!).
One burst tyre and many hours later we waved goodbye to the 15 year old chap who'd tried (in vain) to teach us his mother tongue during the journey. Handing us an intricately folded piece of paper he declared it for good luck and ran. Our 6 year old friend advised it was the Cambodian Medal made from 100 riel note and bring much luck into our lives. Overcome by such generosity the two western wooses sat and fought back the tears for the remainder of the journey.
Back in Phnom Penh I am idling away the days eating fab food (and incredibly expensive, but delicious chocolate) and wandering the markets. Still unsure as to what my next move will be I will keep you all updated as and when.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.117s; Tpl: 0.012s; cc: 7; qc: 46; dbt: 0.057s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.1mb
