Cruising round Battambang


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Asia » Cambodia » North » Battambang
September 29th 2009
Published: October 3rd 2009
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Kids picking chilliesKids picking chilliesKids picking chillies

They work in the fields in the morning and go to school in the afternoon.
Leaving Phnom Penh I arrived at the bus station with 40 minutes to spare. Thinking I would grab a coffee or something I made to leave and was instantly admonished and told to "stay in your seat, bus come very soon." The bus didn't some very soon, it came at 11:20 (due at 10) and every time I made to move I was firmly told to stay put. Not quite sure why as other people came and went and then returned from whence they'd been, but not I. Maybe word of my navigational prowess had reached them and they were loath to lose me?

Anyway, bus arrived and for one horrid monemt I thought I was going to have to sit on a small plastic stool in the ailse (think very small child stool and you get the idea). Fornuately disaster was averted and the small stool was allocated the the poor chap behind me whilst I bagged a fab window seat once more. Yay!

Arrived in Battambang and got another corker of a hotel for only $8 a night. Immediately put my (ensuite,ah bliss) shower to good use and stepped out to explore. Stopped for a spell to
One more of the kidsOne more of the kidsOne more of the kids

They loved seeing themsoves on the camera and would have posed all day. They were just fab!
enjoy some community aerobics in the park, there were several groups on the go, one of which appeared to be led by the duracell bunny. This guy was incredible: arms, legs, torso, everything moving at top speed (much akin to a whirling dervish actually) he just never flagged. The poor ladies in his group did not fare so well alas and many of them looked much the worse for wear, one by one they flagged (he was quite good looking which I think accounted for the great number of ladies following him) whilst he just kept on going and going....

Feeling quite exhausted by all this excercise I prised my lazy backside off the park bench it was sat on and set off in search of food. Found a lovely spot and met some lovely people, one of whom is cycling solo from Singapore to Hong Kong. Certainly puts my little adventure into perspective.

Next day I was up bright and early to see the sights. My moto driver arrived early which meant I had to forgoe my planned breakfast (in hindsight not such a wise move when you have hills to climb!) and set off to Wat Phnom Sampeau, a hilltop temple upon a rather striking limestone outcrop. Naturally, being super fit and all, I found the climb incredibly hard going and was (very fetchingly I'm sure) leaking sweat like a burst tap. "Would you like a photo of you?" Asked my guide at the top indicating I could pose by the cave entrance. Erm... NO!

He had planned to take me through many caves, but turns out you mix one claustophobic female with one small cave (no lights) and she turns mulish in her refusal to enter any more. Doubt he'll make that mistake again and I will most certainly be taking my torch with me wherever I venture from now on. I did see one cave as it was reasonably lighted, it housed the bones of the many people who had died in the cave after being thrown through a hole in the roof by (you guessed it) the Khmer Rouge. Those unfortunate enough to survive the fall were left to starve to death, their injuries too great to effect an escape.

Made a small faux pas when, in the adrenalin rush engendered by a descent down the steepest (and longest) staircase known
Green beans drying in the sunGreen beans drying in the sunGreen beans drying in the sun

Every now and then my guide would slow down and shout BEE, BEE whilst waving towards houses. Couldn't see any bees and wondered if maybe they were very rare in CAmbodia or something. Turned out he had been pointing out the beans. They pick them green and dry them in the sun till they go black.
to man, I inadvertently bought water from the wrong stall. To atone I immediately bought a coconut from the correct stall, my thoughts on which are documented upon the attached photograph. A small stop at a local farm where I learned green beans are infact black, and it was time to tackle Wat Banan. Locals claim this temple as the inspiration behind the great Angkor Wat. Erm, no. I think not, although my judgement may have been clouded by the 369 (yes, I counted!) steps to get there.

Took a ride on the norrie train for $6, which was a bargain as I had been told they were wanting $15 to $20. Essentially it is a bamboo platform with engine and wheels. Should you meet anything comming the other way the train with the lightest load dismantles and removes itself from the rails to let the other past. Then it simply reassembles and chugs forth upon it's merry way. Happy circumstance meant we met another train carrying a rather large load of wood. Given the rule is those whith the lightest load desembark I was slightly perturbed when my two drivers motioned me to stay put whilst they tried to get the other driver to do the honours. Now, I am no lightweight but I do thingk I may have the edge on a large pile of wood surely, at the very least I must be a darned sight easier to move! Fortuately (for my pride) the other driver agreed with me and my drivers were forced to capitualte. Phew!

Next day I decided to put my culinary skills to the test. Perhapse an expert in the matter could show me where I a going wrong? Unfortuantely it would seem not. I managed to burn my amok, although in my own defence I did have a faulty burner, whihc then had to be rescued by the teacher. Amazingly it was really rather tasty. Then another trip round some temples in the pouring rain.

Should anyone ever venture out here be warned. Temples floors become very slippery in the rain. One must take one's shoes off prior to entering which eans wet and bare feet upon wet and slippery tiles. I in my usual culturally sensitive way managed to disrupt the monks praying as I slid comedy style across the verandah yelling as I went, crashed gracelessly into the railing, turned about and promplty fell upon my behookie right infront of the open door to the temple. Lovely. Quick and shamefull exit then followed as the monks bravely chanted on.

Next day I took what must be the most scenic boat journey in Cambodia (if not Asia) to Siem Reap where I was to be greated by the worst floods in 30 years. Charming!




Additional photos below
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Steep climb to the top!Steep climb to the top!
Steep climb to the top!

100 steps in and I can see the top.
Yet more steps!Yet more steps!
Yet more steps!

I get to the top and am greeted by the sight of yet more steps to climb
Carvings as Wat BananCarvings as Wat Banan
Carvings as Wat Banan

I hought these were spectacular but they were nothing compared to those I would encounter at Angkor!
CoconutCoconut
Coconut

Bought as penance after I made the cardinal sin of buying my water from the wrong stall. Result = one angry guide and one coconut purchase. It tased kinda fizzy, but has way more water than the coconuts back home. Maybe if it was cold I would like it?


8th October 2009

very entertaining!
Loving your installments! you are a very good writer, like the little funny moments also. Hope your having a great time x
8th October 2009

Best of luck in the new job Isla and thanks to everyone from work who's dropped by. Am quite sure I'm having way more fun than you guys on the night shift (if I'm not them I'm clearly doing something very wrong indeed), of course I'd much rather be back home working with you but hey, them's the breaks and I'll just have to make the most of a bad situation eh!
25th October 2009

clumsy girl Jen, The monks were chanting "see her skiting on tha flair hee hee hee". keep rocking, loving the blog
26th October 2009

so funny
Been laughing out loud reading this Jen, find myself hurrying to get to next page to see what happens, got me sitting on the edge of my seat, like a darned good book x

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