Siem Reap, Cambodia: Day 30 to 34

---

I headed to Siem Reap in Cambodia from Luang Prabang.

My goal was to explore the Angkor Wat complex, which is the largest pre-industrial city in the world with an urban sprawl of nearly 3,000 square kilometres at its peak (based on LIDAR studies).

Cambodia's history is deeply intertwined with India, linkages dating back to the Pallava Dynasty in Southern India. The fact that Angkor started as a Hindu Temple complex dedicated to Lord Vishnu (and Vishnu was the deity that the Pallavas worshipped) before morphing to Buddhism is a sign of this.

Its complicated history of monarchies, colonial rulers, Khmer Rouge and the genocide, and subsequent political rulers, nothing has taken away the deep intrigue Angkor creates among anyone interested in history and architecture. Nearly 1/4th of Cambodia's employment is from the tourism sector and Siem Reap is key to this (more than 6 Million people visit Cambodia each year).

After settling down in my hotel, I bought a 3 day pass for the Angkor Complex and got a tuk-tuk driver who was going to show me around. Angkor is vast and I had shortlisted two circuits to see and explore some of the smaller temples.

The small circuit, which consists of Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom (Bayon temple the most prominent), and Ta Prohm is a must see.

Angkor Wat, built in the 12th century, first as a Vishnu temple and later bringing in Buddhism is the best place to see the sun rise. And it's also the most famous of the lot. The number 37 plays a significant role here as the number of steps to heaven (that's why the one day pass costs $37). One ends up climbing steep steps to "ascend to heaven" and see the sights from high up.

My favourite temple in the small circuit was the Bayon temple at Angkor Thom. The entry gates are impressive and the more you explore the temple, the more you see the faces (I read there are 216 of them). Scholars are still debating if these faces on the temples represent the 4 faces of Brahma in the shape of of King Jayavarman VII or of Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara (Bodhisattva of compassion). Irrespective of who it represents, the faces captivate you. It's also the temple where the Samudra Manthan (Churning of Ocean) story from Hindu mythology is captured. I was amazed at the depth of knowledge of the locals with this story.

Ta Prohm, the temple where nature has shown that man can build all that he wants, nature finally takes over everything. The way Strangler Figs have grown into the temples, is stunning. No wonder Hollywood captured the temple and it's trees in the movie Tomb Raider. I was also happy to see that Archeological Survey Of India has been involved in the restoration work in this temple.

The next day, I took a break and explored a bit of Siem Reap, it's night market and enjoyed local cuisine.

The next day, I went on the Big Circuit, which covers temples slightly further away from the main temples (and hence quieter with lesser tourists).

Covering the North Gate of Angkor Thom, Preah Khan temple, Neak Pean, Ta Som temple, Prasat Banteay Prei, West Mebon Temple and Pre Rup temple, this circuit was very impressive and much easier to spend time in because of lesser crowds.

And I spent that evening, finally winding down all the temple trips with some local craft beer with friends (even the best beer in Cambodia is named Hanuman).

To me, Siem Reap represents the height of a civilization which reached its pinnacle through art, religion and spirituality. And ultimately, like all human endeavours, when the peak has passed, nature takes over and later generations witness it today in awe. Angkor Complex is definitely worth visiting and learning about, as much as for human frailities as it is for the architecture and spirituality.

---

Photos

Sunrise at Angkor Wat
Sunrise at Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat

Angkor Thom Complex
Angkor Thom Complex, monks just make it more magical

Ta Prohm
Ta Prohm, nature taking over

Bayon Temple
Bayon Temple, the face is everywhere

Reservoir at Neak Pean
Reservoir at Neak Pean

Neak Pean
Neak Pean

Preah Khan temple
Preah Khan temple

Pub Street, Siem Reap
Pub Street, Siem Reap