Advertisement
Published: September 17th 2007
Edit Blog Post
Khao San Road
Everything you want or need can probably be found on these streets... Sunday, September 9th - Thursday, September 13th
As the train rolls to a stop I grab my bags, and, with one last
disappointed glance at the saffron-robed monk with a cigarette
dangling from his lips, deciding I'm not one to be giving lectures
on will power and personal responsibility, I jump from the train
into the sleepy riverside town of Bangpa-In.
The reason I had decided to stop at Bangpa-In rather than ride
out the last twenty kilometres to Ayutthaya was because my
guidebook described the Royal Palace in the town as extravagent
and surreal, with a mix of Chinese, Thai and European architecture.
With well manicured gardens and immaculate European homes it is
rather surreal and I walk the grounds imagining the good times my
friends and I would have with this palace as our playground. But the
heat is damaging and with nobody around to hear my sarcastic
comments I hop on the bike and ride the quiet streets to the highway
heading north, to the ancient capital of Ayutthaya.
The city of Ayutthaya is surrounded on all sides by a river, making it
a seemingly perfect place for a well protected city, and for
Muay Thai
Front row seats... a time it
was the thriving capital of Siam, until the mid-18th century when it was
sacked and burnt to the ground by the westward neighbouring Burmese.
Now, tourists flock to the city to snap pictures of the dust and ruins of
what was once a great city.
I cross the bridge leading to the city centre and find a simple family run
guesthouse that sets me back three dollars. There are ruins scattered
among the city making my bike the perfect vehicle to get around with,
and other tourists seem to agree as I pass several foreigners on rented
bikes, looking lost in the rush of tuk tuk's and moto's.
I widdle the day away with a camera hanging from my neck, wandering
the town and trying to guess where the other traveler's hail from - most
seem to be French and German. Though the ruins themselves are quite
spectacular the whole sight-seeing thing doesn't tickle my fancy. What I
want is something more raw, and open, minus the sugarcoating. I want
dusty streets and chaos; the rush of the unexpected and unknown. I want
adventure, and know that I'll have to hit the open road to
Bangpa-In
The riverside town of Bangpa-In... find it. It's time
for some riding.
I resolve to ride eastwards and assume that, unless disease, a natural
disaster, or a big truck stops me, I will be arriving at the Aranyapathet/Poipet
border in three days time. There is no mention in my guidebook of the cities
I'll be traveling through, so with a map, a very limited knowledge of the Thai
language, and a mild case of diarrhea I head off into the unknown.
The Thai tourism industry likes to promote the country as the 'Land of Smiles',
and it doesn't take me long to understand why. For two and a half days I am
treated to smiles, honks of support and unbelievable helpfulness from nearly
everyone I meet. I spend my days riding on world class highways and
stopping at roadside stalls for pinapple juice and cheap meals, being invited
into the homes along the way, and usually entertaining the proprietors with
tall tales and horrible attempts at speaking their language. Initially it's
unnerving to approach a group of people who are staring inquiringingly at
you, but I quickly learn that a smile, a hello, and exaggerated suggestions
of how horrible the heat is are
Bangpa-In
Afternoon fishing while the tour boats head upstream... a good way to break the ice.
The women are usually the first to ask questions and show interest - they
eagerly gather water for me, cook up fantastic dishes and worry about the
horrible sunburn that is beginning to develop on my face, neck, ears, and arms.
The men aren't as easy to impress. They will normally stand aside, pretending
to be uninterested, but before long they are surrounding my bike, inspecting
it's parts, ringing the bell, and asking me to show them where I have traveled
on my map. At one point I am escorted to a bathroom at a police station where
I am forced to sit down in the air-conditioned room to cool off while the officers
fill my water bottle and eagerly ask questions. After a cool drink I am sent off
with snacks and wishes of good luck.
Though the scenery is fairly unimpressive with rice paddies, open fields and the
occassional sugar cane patch, the friendliness of the locals, the relaxing pace
and the relatively light traffic make it a pleasant ride and before long I'm nearing
the Thai border town of Aranyapathet.
I stop to eat a pineapple
Royal Palace
A mix of Thai and European architecture... and to gather myself before I make the final push to the
border. I had said that I wanted adventure, and sitting on a raggedy step looking
eastward an ominious black cloud begins to form in the sky above. I get the feeling
that my wishes are soon to be granted. I settle back onto my bike and pedal east,
awaiting the large gate that will welcome me into the 'Wild West' of Southeast Asia
- the Kingdom of Cambodia.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Riding Stats
Sunday, September 9th -- Bangkok - Ayutthaya
Distance - 60 km by train
34.81 km by bike
Riding Time - 2:14
Avg. Speed - 15.4 km/hr
Max Speed - 29.6 km
Conditions: Bangkok traffic can be hectic, but it'll get the blood flowing.
I took highway 3477 from Bangpa-In to Ayutthaya. It's a secondary highway
with single lanes, but the traffic is light and there is plenty of shoulder room.
Monday, September 10th -- In and Around Ayutthaya
Distance - 29 km
Conditions: Navigating your way around Ayutthaya is quite easy
and it's far and away the best way to visit
Royal Palace
A house fit for a queen... the ruins and see the city.
Tuesday, September 11th -- Ayutthaya - Nakhon Nayok
Distance - 103.23 km
Riding Time - 5:17
Avg. Speed - 19.5 km/hr
Max Speed - 35.3 km
Wednesday, September 12th -- Nakhon Nayok - Sa Kaeo
Distance - 119.68 km
Riding Time - 5:50
Avg. Speed - 20.4 km/hr
Max Speed - 40.1 km
Thursday, September 13th -- Sa Kaeo - Poipet
Distance - 66.93 km
Riding Time - 3:48
Avg. Speed - 20.1
Max Speed - 31.5
Total - 352 km
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
For anyone interested in doing a bike trip I would recommend checking out the following sites:
www.crazyguyonabike.com
www.bikeforums.net
www.lonelyplanet.com
www.mrpumpy.net
They are all great sources for information and I used them all to help plan and prepare for my trip. Mr. Pumpy is my personal favorite and I'm using parts of his route for my trip through Cambodia.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.061s; Tpl: 0.011s; cc: 11; qc: 56; dbt: 0.0278s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.2mb
Doug
non-member comment
It only gets worse
The road from Poipet to Siem Reap is a real joy. I hope you're surviving it. Just find some kids to clean your bike and do your laundry afterwards. And thanks for recommending my blog.