Battambang's burgeoning art scene

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Last time we came to Battambangit quickly became our favourite place in Cambodia. Getting there was fairly painless although extensive roadworks just outside the capital probably added a good half hour onto the journey. When the minibus dropped us off in the town centre it seemed as though time had stood still.

As we explored further it was evident that many changes have taken place in the last three years or so. We stayed in the brand new Jasmine Hotel which is away from the centre and very quiet. We got off to a bad start when the promised collection from the minibus didn't happen, and then the air conditioning in our huge room with massive windows didn't work properly. Our new room was tiny in comparison and had no windows. The up side was that the room was very dark ensuring we slept very well. Oh how we miss our Spanish shutters!

A favourite restaurant from before, The White Rose, has had a complete face-lift and is now twice the size it was with a very glamorous terrace where we ate. Their menu is still massive and the quality of the food is still fabulous, but the service leaves a lot to be desired. Nearby is Madison Corner, a funky bar with good happy hour deals which has not changed at all.

Indeed, it was surprising what hadn't changed. The train station is still in a state of abandonment and it is more overgrown than ever. It's a shame because it could easily be a cultural or art space and a focus for the community. We doubt it will ever see a train again though! The market area is as shabby as ever but somehow that gives it a certain charm!

There are a lot of new hotels and restaurants around to service the big increase in visitor numbers Battambang receives now. Gecko cafe has moved from a beautiful but cramped French colonial building to a much more spacious forefront location. Their Mexican food is still great, but the restaurant side of the business is now known as The Kitchen.

The thing that has changed is art. Apparently before the arrival of the Khmer Rouge the city was the bohemian art capital of Cambodia. Now several art and photography galleries are trying to recreate that creative atmosphere of yesteryear.

Right in the centre we visited Make Maek galley to see a series of black and white photos about the struggles of everyday life for the people in the local rural communities. It was very moving and certainly thought provoking.

On the opposite side of the road was Lotus Gallery. Downstairs is a café serving health food. Continue upstairs and there's an eclectic collection by a local artist. Some of her work is comic book style while other pieces are verging on bring impressionist works made up of thousands of colourful dots. We both had very differing opinions on the artistic merit of these pieces!

Gecko also have a gallery above their dining room. Some of the artwork is 3D incorporating everyday objects like a bicycle and an umbrella. It's a novel idea and their artists have pulled it off superbly.

Finally, an art project which is inspirational in so many ways. Romcheik 5 has provided both a home and a career for young artists who were from families who fled to Thailand and were later expelled. The horrors of their early years is clear to see in some of the disturbing works which have been produced. It's not all dark though and the intricacy of their paintings is a joy to observe. The small charge to enter this gallery is well worth it, and you know that you are helping to keep the project going too.

We had intended on staying in Battambang for another day, but the bus to Bangkok we wanted to book was full so we had to leave almost immediately. That was such a shame as we were really enjoying being back in town. The bus journey wasn't great but it's no fault of Mekong Express. One passenger from Laos had a problem with his passport at the border. He hadn't done anything wrong; it was just an over officious border guard. Once we were in Thailand a Belgian passenger who had had several beers before the journey began, and continued topping up all the way, got very abusive towards the driver and some other passengers. It became quite hostile and the driver was clearly affected by it. It was decided that it would be better for everyone if he made his own way to Bangkok, so he was deposited at the side of the road and good riddance! That meant a 7 hour minibus ride became 9 hours and we were exhausted when we reached Bangkok.

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Comments

[D MJ Binkley]

Interesting photo
Sad