An Early Start and the Road to Battambang

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This is a case of the good news and bad news. The good news is I got up at 6 am, despite not getting asleep until about 2, still trying to adjust for the 14 hour time difference. The room comes with a water pitcher that boils water in short order to what can only be described as incendiary temperatures, then you put this little packet of Nescafe in and stir. It taste horrible, but for some reason I drink it anyway for lack of an alternative. So, out to the verandah outside my room on the 3^rd floor which faces the street and I sit for over an hour mesmerized by all the comings and goings on this tiny street. This street is a mixture of a few guest houses, small businesses with the living quarters upstairs, and a couple of houses. My fav was the guy in this big flatbed truck who parks across the street, then whips this blue tarp off to uncover these huge blocks of ice. After getting his order he gets out this big saw and starts cutting a block down to the appropriate size. In this heat he better get moving because his profits are running down the side of the truck. I love this street.

The bad news is – I was up at 6 am!!! Once again you can blame this quaint street for all the banging, clanking, crowing, yelling, and especially the guy with the truck that will not start without beating the hell out if it with a wrench. I am laying in bed and as the engine is rur-rur-rur-rur-rur-, I am hitting the gas pedal in my bed saying “come on baby”. Then it will almost start and once again the wrench comes out. I literally erupted in applause when it started and he drove off. Now don’t get me wrong, I understand that this truck is everything to this guy. I am sure without it he does not make any money for the day, so I understand that this minor glitch in my day is something I would never complain about.

Now ANN, the above comment about hitting the gas pedal in bed is not a metaphor for anything – so don’t even go there.

After spending the early morning street gauking, I wandered into the Old Market area for some breakfast. I went to the Blue Pumpkin and had eggs and toast. Normally that is not really blog worthy but while sitting there watching street traffic and these guys trimming trees along the sidewalk with a real cup of coffee, these 2 girls with Australian accents sat at the table next to me. Right after that a couple from England sat at the table beside them. They struck up a conversation having both recognize each other from a recent visit to Phnom Penh. They soon were talking about their journeys through SE Asia, the good places to go and the ones to avoid. Luckily the 2 ladies had just come in from Battambang and had nothing but high praise for it. The 2 ladies had been in Asia for about 6 months with another 6 months to go, had left school at the mid-point to take a year off before finishing up on their return. It makes me wish I was 20 again, with the adventure spirit, and the responsibilities of life still in the future. I have a dream, that I can put my life aside for 1 year, load up and get lost. Keep posted!

At 10 sharp my Toyota taxi showed up and this older gentleman jumped out and heaved my heavy bag into the trunk and off we went for Battambang. I tried to say a couple of things but he spoke no English, so it was futile. When I did try to communicate, he would just laugh and smile, the rest of the trip was in silence. This was my first trip from one city to another on the ground, my previous visit I took a plane from Luang Prabang, Laos to Siem Reap, then a plane from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh. I am so glad I did this, the countryside was so interesting with mile after mile of rice paddies, small towns, and potholes the size of a Prius. Actually the first half of the trip was on a nice wide road, bad in stretches, but the motorbikes could use the side and not slow down the cars and trucks. But the 2^nd half was on a very bad, just wide enough for 2 cars so you spent the entire journey dodging motorbikes, bicycles, cows, dogs, pedestrians and the occasional chicken. I tried in vain to take some pictures but they are all blurry out the widow of a car type. This being the rainy season, the fields were full of water and everything was lush and green. The trip was a little over 3 hours and he did a great job delivering his valuable cargo safe and sound, despite a few times I wish I had not been looking.

One big question I wanted to ask so bad: there were these military guys with automatic rifles on and off the first half of the trip stationed along the road doing nothing but starring into the rice fields. Some were dressed in Khaki colored, some were in green and the most menacing where the ones in black who looked like a SWAT team member. Sometimes they would be every ¼ mile, sometimes they would be one after another for a good mile or so. They ALL were looking into these rice fields where I never saw anyone or anything moving. It was almost like they were ready for an invasion from the rice patties. If anyone can shed a light on this, I would love it!!

Once in Battambang I checked into my hotel and wow its nice. This place is only $16 for the night and comes with hot water, a/c, and a comfortable bed. And that is the most expensive room they have. The furniture is a bit bizarre, but hey, its $16!! I sat outside for a bit after unpacking and then took a stroll up and down a few streets. I only saw one other couple, the rest were all locals. I know this is the slow season, and the tour buses don’t come here, but wow, what a change. This place is so laid back compared to Siem Reap. I was constantly getting hassled for rides, offers of shapely women, good massage, then they would whisper “marijuana”. And the most annoying of all, the women with the baby and the empty bottle – just google “milk scam” and you can get the whole story. I walked around for an hour here and never was hassled once – I love this place. On return to the hotel the Tuk Tuk driver for the hotel set me up with a fun day tomorrow. I am so excited I may get up at 6 am – NOT!

As I type this in the hotel lobby, it is pouring rain outside. I can only hope the weather is better tomorrow.

Happy Travels, Don

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Comments

[Butch]

NIce Blog
Hi Don. Nice blog and thanks for tips thru email. What was the name of the hotel in Battambang? Might have to check it out.

[Nurse Don]

The hotel in Battambang was the Seung Hout Hotel, nice place and very friendly and helpful staff. I think they have a pool now, it was under construction when I was there if I remember correctly.