Temples of Angkor... in a day

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Angkor Temples

We got to Siam Reap and its a pretty well developed area. We came here because this is where there are many ancient religious sights including Angkor Wat which lies 5km north of the town. We only had one full day here so we made the most of it and were up at 4.30 the next morning to catch sunrise at Angkor Wat.

Can I just say at this point we had pretty low expectations about visiting a load of old ruins. However Angkor is one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. The whole area has been a major highlight of this trip for both of us. Sunrise was magnificent as the sun rose behind the inner temple. We watched from the North pool and it was an amazing sight. After that everyone goes back to their hotel for breakfast so we took the opportunity to head further into the temple and look at the Bas Reliefs before the crowds came back later. Angkor Wat looks magnificent from a distance and is perfectly symetrical. However up close its just as stunning with incredibly detailed carvings on all the stones showing Aspara's, Vishnu, Garuda's, Linga's and all sorts of heavenly beings. Most impressive are the aforementioned Bas Reliefs which are visual descriptions carved in the walls (in the 12th centuary) showing ancient battles as well as depictions of heaven and hell and Hindu mythology. Bearing in mind the whole and these carvings are nearly 1000 years old, the detail is stunning. We were able to follow descriptions in the Guide book along the 800m long Bas Reliefs at Angkor Wat. Its a beautiful place to sit and contemplate the silence and magnificence of the site in the cooler morning air before the heat and crowds descend. Its an incredible spot - incredible not least as its about 1000 years old, still standing and generally in great nick. Theres nothing that old in the UK thats in such great condition (as far as I know)

Next we had breakfast and our moto driver took us to Phnom Bakheng which is about 1.5Km south of Angkor Wat. People normally come here at sunset but we came here earlier and had the place to ourselves. Theres a fair trek up the hill to get to the temple so you need to take it easy in the humidity. At the top theres a temple - which has 7 layers representing the seven hindu heavens. Its a tricky climb to the top - its not meant to be easy to reach heaven so the steps are crazily steep. We made it to the top and there was a good view. Some local kids scrambled to the top just after and didn't seem at all out of breath which took the wind out of our sails a little...

We went into Angkor Thom next which is the ancient Angkor walled city and was home to over a million people in its heyday. We got our first view of Bayon (the one with the faces) but had already decided to leave it til the afternoon. While Gareth got chased by some women wanting to sell him water, the driver went off for a "well deserved" snooze. First we went to Baphuon (built in 1065) which a French team is still repairing. No going into it but there is a rather impressive walkway held up by hundreds of pillars. An interesting fact about this temple was that it was taken apart in the 60's with exact record kept as to where each restored stone would be put. The Khmer Rouge destroyed the records before the temple was put back together, leaving the worlds largest jig saw puzzle. The French team are still working on this now. It was here we met some monks and Gareth was able to swap hair shaving tips with them. Before lunch we also climbed to the top of Phlmeanakas which sounds Greek and Preah Paillay which is off to the north of the site on its own so was also deserted. By this time a thunder storm was rolling in and this temple was especially spooky with the sound of distant thunder.

We saved the best for last and after lunch during a thunder storm we hit Ta Prohm. This was Gareth's favourite temple of all. Its on a huge site which has been only partially reclaimed from the Jungle. The trees here are many hundreds of years old and literally grow up through the structure. There are huge roots clinging to the walls. Its an amazing sight and has to be seen to be believed. Its great fun clambering over the rubble of this temple and darting through old corridors among the trees. Its also where some scenes in Tomb Raider were filmed. Highly recommended!!

Last but not least we went to the Bayon which is back in the heart of Angkor Thom. No body quite knows why but dotted all around Bayon are mysterious faces. Some are at eye level while others stare down at you from towers. Its an unnerving experience knowing you are being watched. After this a tumultuous thunder storm hit so we left. A powerful end to a great day - 12 hours of sightseeing temples! The only thing was we wished we had longer. Theres loads more sights in the area and will have to go back to visit the more outlying sites on another trip.

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