The final night in Si Phan Don was the best of the lot, a rainstorm clearing the air of the humidity and allowing some sleep. The trip to the Cambodian border was uneventful though having to pay for an exit stamp for Laos, then for a Cambodian visa-on-arrival, then for a Cambodian entry stamp, smacked of a rip-off. Despite the travel company knowing hours earlier just how many passengers needed to get from the border onwards, it turned out that the bus they had laid on was too small. After a wait, a saloon car turned up and the travel company agent asked for 4 volunteers. Reasoning that this could hardly fail to be more comfortable than the bus, LA Woman and I stuck our hands up. In hindsight this was a mistake. Firstly, there were
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