A taste of Asian opulence


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Asia » Brunei » Bandar Seri Begawan
August 17th 2008
Published: August 17th 2008
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Jame 'Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque, Bandar Seri BegawanJame 'Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque, Bandar Seri BegawanJame 'Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque, Bandar Seri Begawan

This magnificently opulent mosque is less than twenty years old, but will surely stand the test of time.
As I flew into Brunei for an overnight stopover, I got to thinking it's been far too long since the last visit to Asia, a region in the world that has long been a personal favourite of mine. But nothing lasts forever, and it's great to have an overnight stay in the Sultanate of Brunei. This small country on the north west coast of Borneo enjoys a very high standard of living, thanks to the oil and gas reserves located just offshore. Somehow it feels familiar to experience a taste of Asian culture again, and the opulence of the capital Bandar Seri Begawan after many years spent travelling in other continents.

But let's get the journal up to date then, constant reader. We left off in Liverpool with a Beatles fanatic in seventh heaven. After my visit I boarded a superb Virgin train for the short commute back to London for my last night in the UK. I didn't know that Virgin had branched out into the UK train network, but was impressed with the service and the price too. France is renowned for her superb train network, but the trip was an effortless commute. I was greeted at London
Reunion in LondonReunion in LondonReunion in London

A delightful catch up with my British ex colleagues. I was their boss in 1999, when they were temping in my Sydney workplace.
Euston station by a Scottish friend, who worked in my office briefly in 1999. We have kept in touch since then, and I always remember the lad as an excellent worker. We went to his house which he purchased with a friend a few years ago, and I was pleasantly surprised. He warned me about the appearance of the door outside, and the neighbouring appartments certainly didn't look overly flash. However, once we got inside I was blown away. The lads have spent every weekend for the last two years giving the place a comprehensive makeover, and I was well impressed.

There was a further surprise in line for me, and I was delighted when another lad who worked in the office at the same time knocked on the door. We had a great night catching up over a meal with a few beers, and I was surprised the lads had such positive memories from the time spent working in the office. My final night provided a perfect finish to this trip to the UK and Ireland. However, a final surprise awaits, as I fly into Brunei for an overnight stopover on the way home to Australia. The first thing I noticed after arriving back on Asian soil is the unique smell of a tropical Asian climate, but the local Royal Brunei staff provided a smooth and efficient hotel transfer for the weary plane passengers. One of the hardest parts of international travel is keeping up motivation levels in the face of fatigue, but I was determined to make the most of the stopover, and quickly booked onto a half day tour before I faded out completely.

I was tired, the weather was hot and the humidity was high as the tour set out. It was not conducive to having a good experience, but the guide quickly won over the weary long haul passengers with his knowledge and love of this fascinating little country. Our first stop was the magnificent mosque, named and financed by the current Sultan of Brunei. It's a superb monument flush with Italian marble with no expenses spared, and will remain a major tourist attraction in the future. From the mosque our guide took us to the Royal Regalia museum which celebrates the 42 year rule of the current Sultan, whose father abdicated for him when he was just 21 years of age. He
Chariot of the SultanChariot of the SultanChariot of the Sultan

The ornate chariot used for the coronation of the current Sultan of Brunei in 1967.
had to wear a three kilogram crown of solid gold for the entire celebration, and it must have been a challenge for the young monarch. During my visit I'm informed he is a much beloved absolute monarch. The massive wealth from the oil and gas bonanza is flowing through to the citizens of Brunei, who enjoy free health care and cheap petrol prices at the bowser.

We then visited the Brunei museum which has excellent exhibits of the local wildlife and plants in this small country. It also features a display on the oil and gas reserves that are being exploited just offshore, to the immense benefit of the local population. Our final stop on the tour involved a boat trip out to the water village in Bandar Seri Begawan, which is a traditional way of life for over 10,000 people in this wealthy capital. We were invited into the water village house of a local resident, and this was my first experience of village life living on the water which is prominent is several South East Asian countries. Other speed boats rocket around the narrow canals with abandon, while seeming to ignore the no speeding signs that are prominently displayed. Anyway, as a guest I promise not to bring it to the attention of the Sultan.

Brunei has a population of 382,000 people and is situated in one of the most beautiful regions in Asia. The country has been blessed with abundant reserves of oil and gas. The local residents are making every post a winner in a country where, basically all of you should be here now!


No one ever went broke underestimating the public taste." H.L. Mencken


It's home time so until next time, I'm signing off for now

Tom

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Water village lifeWater village life
Water village life

There is no further development allowed for the 700 year old traditional way of life in the water village.


18th September 2008

Mislabelled?
That is not a photo of the Sultan Omar Ali Saifudien Mosque, it is the Jame 'Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque which has been officially in use since 1994, the largest mosque in Brunei Darussalam. More information on the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sultan_Omar_Ali_Saifuddin_Mosque Thanks :)
23rd September 2008

Mosque correction
Thanks for that Julia. The title of the photo has now been corrected.
23rd September 2008

Actually, Brunei currently has a population of 381,371 people, not 200,000. You only stay in Brunei for a night right? That means you did not have the chance to visit other tourist sites around Brunei, like Tasek Merimbun in Tutong district, Sungai Liang Forest Reserve in Belait district, and Belalong in Temburong. Brunei is not only rich in culture, but also rich with its abundant forest reserve (which cover about 70% of the country). If you do have the chance to visit Brunei next time, please do visit them next time. By the way, you did not include the Empire Hotel & Country Club, the 5-star (or 7-star according to some) hotel, as one of the top 3 Hotels, considering that it is currently the most expensive and beautiful hotel in Brunei.
25th September 2008

Dear Erika
Thanks again. I'm starting to ponder if this is possibly the most inaccurate blog entry I've written in TravelBlog, and it's number 99 at that! Yes, I did only stay overnight and only commented on recommendations I can vouch for. Population faux pas has been corrected. Cheers...

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