The Sun ain’t up, the sky ain’t blue, what on Earth should we both do? The morning breaks. We remain positive about an extremely hard mattress and a bit of lost sleep and prepare ourselves fo breakfast. The hôtel table is laden with local food. Cottage cheese and feta, tomatoes, peppers and cucumber, parsley and spring onions, eggs, apricot jam, and butter. Only the frankfurter sausages look out of a tin. The bread is a fresh squidgy confection - delicious. The low cloud still clings to the mountains around us. We decide to explore this ancient town of Goris on foot until lunch then drive to the gorge of Khndzoresk, 10km away. The monastery of Tatev, perched high on a mountain, is the main site in the area and the reason we are here. But until
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