Gorilla Tracking in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest

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Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park in deep south-western Uganda is home to about half the world's current population of 700 critically endangered Mountain Gorillas (of Gorillas in the Mist fame).

The national park is bordered by the Democratic Republic of Congo and Rwanda (not the most stable area in Africa), so it was with some trepidation that we made our way from London to Kampala for the highlight of our four day "express" visit to Uganda.

Arriving at the village of Buhoma after a ten hour drive from Kampala we were pleasantly surprised to find that our "tent" was actually a semi-permanent structure with a raised floor and it had proper beds - yay!! As we were right on the verge of the forest, we had an uninterrupted view of the very dense, verdant jungle. We were also shocked to find that earlier that day a family of gorillas had been nesting right in front of our verandah - if only we'd been a day earlier we could have avoided the trek!

The next morning we woke to the sounds of the jungle - the cacaphony of birds, monkeys and other assorted animals were a very effective alarm clock. After breakfast, we headed off to the Gorilla trek briefing and learnt the "do's and don'ts" of interacting with the gorillas (eg. breaking into a run if they approach you). We would be tracking the Mubare "family", one of four habituated (somewhat used to humans) groups that tourists are allowed to track.

Setting off with the other members of our group, the guide, Janice's porter and two (very) armed soldiers we headed up through the foothills passing by villager's houses and farms, to catch up with the trackers that had left earlier to track the gorillas from their nest of the previous night.

At first the hike was quite easy, but fairly soon it became very challenging as we began to ascend the slippery, muddy almost vertical mountain slope. Climbing from 800 to 1,400 metres, we finally caught up with the trackers and were told that the "family" were in a thicket just up the hill. After slipping in the mud (and almost tumbling all the way back down) I entered the hole cut by the trackers and saw the Gorillas for the first time.

The Mubare family consists of eight individuals and is headed by a Silverback named Ruhondeza - the oldest Silverback in Bwindi, he is a huge, impressive creature. Spending time with these animals in their home is a truly remarkable experience. At one point, I was 2-3 metres away from the younger male, Kanyonyi, and was able to observe him eating and hanging out while he was completely oblivious to my presence.

The gorillas share so many "human" characteristics, that it is very sad to think that they are so close to being wiped off the planet - luckily the Ugandan government now see's them as a valuable asset, so hopefully their future will be a bright one.

While our trip to Uganda was expensive, short and stressful (at times), the visit with the Bwindi Gorillas made it all worthwhile.

Enjoy the photos!!

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Photos

Main Street, Buhoma Village Uganda
This wasn't just the Main street, it was the only street in this tiny village on the verge of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest

Now...Give me some Attitude!
Here's me putting the gorilla through it's paces as a model...seriously sitting about 2.5 metres away from this beautiful animal was a very cool experience.

Our Tent at Bwindi
The accommodation at Bwindi was basic - a tent underneath a rain shelter - but the location and views were great!!

Comments

[DP]

amazin!
Anderson Cooper just did a story on these gorillas that was presented on this past weekend's edition of '60 Minutes' and I for one hope these gorillas bounce back population-wise :)