Prehistoric birds in the swamp

---

Breakfast at Forest Cottages was a buffet and I was accompanied by the hotel cat with one of her kittens. Both were given some of my omelette and nothing was left. The other three kittens were cuddled up nearby in a plant pot.

Zedius was due to arrive at 7.30 am but due to Kampala traffic being solid, he arrived at 8.10. The traffic was practically gridlocked, a hot hell that took some time to traverse. Our destination was Mabamba Swamp, on the edge of Lake Victoria for a boat trip and it took around 2 hours to get there. Being only a few miles south of the equator, it was roasting. It’s weird to think that only the day before yesterday in the mountains, I needed to wear the hoodie I’d bought at the first chimp trek.

Glyn and I were led onto a small wooden boat with planks for seats and a small motor. Eric was our guide, aided by another bloke whose name I missed. Zedius came with us too. There was none of that health and safety nonsense or life jackets, but it wasn’t very deep.

Being a swamp, it was swamped with reeds and water lilies. It was also teeming with life; lots of birds and insects which I saw. Also, fish, monitor lizards and snakes, which I did not see. The latter two are rather elusive but like to steal eggs.

The main attraction were shoebills, massive birds that can be between 8 and 12 lbs. These prehistoric birds can’t swim as they don’t have webbed feet and grow to 4-5 feet. They are an endangered species, their main issues being fishermen killing them off as they’re competing for the same fish. No other animal eats them once they are past egg stage.

To find the shoebills, we had to aim straight into the reeds and there was no point trying to use the motor any more. The two guys worked so hard in the baking heat with long poles, shoving the boat through the unyielding plant life. It was like trying to paddle through treacle. I asked if it was this hard everyday and yes it is because the shoebills are in different places, so any channels made soon grow over.

Our luck held up and we came across one shoebill who posed for some time before flying off. Apparently they fly during the hottest part of the day to cool off and won’t return until the evening. This probably was the last landed one of the day and it swooped up high above us. The rest of the trip involved looking at and photographing other birds. We were out in the sun for about 2 hours. Factor 50 and hats were essential.

On the way back we stopped for lunch at a nice place with a cat. It was beans, matoke and rice, with a bit of tomato and spinach. I have missed eating a decent amount of green veg this holiday, most meals have been beige and high in carbs. This was particularly filling and I couldn’t eat for the rest of the day. The staff helped us push the jeep into a bump start, maybe our last breakdown of the holiday?

Zedius dropped us off back in town at the museum, as it was due to shut in 90 minutes. We sort of said our goodbyes and gave him a fair sized tip, he might take us to the airport tomorrow night, so we may meet again.

The museum looked like it hadn’t been updated since the 70’s and in all honesty it was a bit shit. It cost 15,000 Ugandan shillings to enter but saw everything in about 45 minutes. The stone age section was no bigger than my kitchen and some displays so dark, they were barely visible.

There was a decent section about primates with a few skeletons and a stuffed gorilla that had died in a National park falling out of a tree. A few other sad stuffed animals were worn and moth eaten, set against backgrounds that could have been painted by a two year old.

The science section covered fossil fuels very briefly and an Old Ford on display, one of the first cars in Kampala.

I thought it would only be a 20 minute walk back, so we set off, still carrying all the heavy gear we’d taken to the swamp in the morning. It was hot and sweaty, the traffic heavy and the pavements were often rubble. When the roads became too busy, motorcycles just got on the pavements, weaving around the cars that were parked on them. It wasn’t a pleasant experience.

Only I’d gotten the wrong Forest Cottages, would you believe there’s two in Kampala. And then Google maps decided it would go a bit awry, just to add to the fun. After around 30 mins walking, there was a small Mount of retracing our steps until we got on the right road. It was to be at least another 30 minutes to walk, and uphill - hooray!

Crossing the road is no laughing matter either. The occasional traffic lights don’t work anyway and the roads are a free-for-all. The only way to cross the road is to wait for a local and cross with them. How they manage it can only be explained as a leap of faith: step out confidently and hope not to get run over.

I was so pleased when we finally got back. Only we had to move rooms because last night was booked by Mambo Safaris and was just a room. The other two nights Glyn had booked were in a fancy cottage with two floors, dining table, cooker, sofa and outdoor seating! However, it was a pain to pack and move, especially as I was keen to get into the small pool before it closed for the day. We’re not normally pool people, but it had been a hot day, and some relaxation is allowed on holiday!

---