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Published: November 25th 2008
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A few of the group, me included left Nungwi early in the morning so that we could visit the agricultural villages of Kizimbani and Kindichi on the way. Driving through the island we have always been aware of the variety of flora and fauna but until today did not know what any of it actually was. The various plants and trees that carpet the island turned out to be a real feast for the senses. A huge variety of spices are grown here on the island such as cardamon, cinnamon, nutmeg, pepper, cloves, turmeric, vanilla and curry leaves. Alongside these bananas, bread fruit, star fruit and coconuts thrive. Everywhere we looked there was another little surprise. Our guide around the two spice farms we visited was very knowledgeable and told us all about how each spice is used, not only in cooked but also for medicinal purposes. He would pick something off a tree or bush, break it up to release the smell and then get us to try and guess what it was by smelling it and then tasting it if needed before he would tell us what it was. I got most of them right but had no idea
for example that Turmeric grows and looks exactly like root ginger until you break it open as see its vivid orange colour. We were also informed that Nutmeg is used as an aphrodisiac for men.
The people who lived in the villages and worked on the farms were really friendly and the kids were some of the happiest kids I think I have ever met. One of the young lads on the farm climbed a coconut tree and retrieved a fresh coconut for each of us. The whole time singing a well known local song at the top of his voice. We each drank the coconut milk out of the coconuts before eating the flesh - best coconut I have ever had. At the same time they presented us with some presents made out of palm leaves they cut out of the tree at the same time. The girls in the groups were treated with a beautiful ring, bracelet and bag made out of palm leaves, whilst the lone male of the group got a top hat, tie and pair of glasses.
At the end of the 2 1/2 walk around the farms we had the opportunity to
buys some spices. I bought a bag of cinnamon sticks for next to nothing which I plan on using to spice up my hot chocolate in the coming weeks on the truck.
After the farms we continued onto Stone Town. Along the way the islands largely Muslim population became more apparent than it had been in Nungwi. Here both men and women were traditionally clad in Muslim clothes. Arriving in town we went to the old slave fort to have a quick look around and hear about Zanzibars part in the slave trade and its eventual abolition. We then had some spicy rice dish for lunch in a nearby restaurant before heading to our hotel.
Dumping our things quickly we headed out to spend a few hours wandering around the narrow roads and busy markets streets of the town which still manages to maintain its old world character and charm. It is in a very dilapidated state though. Doors in Stone Town are solid wood, elaborately carved, but only really seen at night when everywhere closes up and reveals its doors to passers by.
In the evening we were out to celebrate a birthday, heading to Gizenga
Street, the busiest shopping street and the Food Hall Gardens. At nighttime the gardens come alive around 6pm with local fisherman setting up a seafood market at which you can select your fish and they will cook and serve it to you there in the market. Veggies are not forgotten though and there were plenty of breads, falafel, salads etc on offer also. It really is a sight to see, with the whole street dimly lit by hurricane lamps amongst the hustle and bustle of people eating and market stall holders bartering with customers. I ate falafel, chapatis and salad, washing down with a cold sprite. For dessert I had a chocolate 'Zanzibar Pizza' which was like a type of pancake. I could have gone back for another and another it was that good. After finishing our meals we wandered through the streets and I bought myself a painting. Some of the roads had recently been tarmacked yet people and cars continued to use them, resulting in everything being covered in sticky tar - very strange.
The following morning, after a battle with the biggest cockroach I have ever seen in the bathroom in the hotel, I did a
little more wandering around town absorbing it all before I had to leave. The ferry ride back to Dar was really bumpy, so much so they came around handing out sick bags to everyone and lots of people used them. After getting off of the ferry we had an hour or two to kill in Dar and it was amusing to walk around such a crazy city. So hot and dusty and hectic. Back to Mikadi Beach Camp we went which was just as beautiful as the first day we arrived there. Having one last dip in the Indian Ocean we were all sad to think that tomorrow we would be leaving Tanzania to go to Malawi but also excited about what was ahead.
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