We left a still sleeping, and possibly hungover, Abri early the following morning, and head south along the Nile towards Kerma, 3 hours away. Along the way, we stopped off at the small village of Wawa. Wawa is pleasant enough, with wide dusty lanes, and single storey yellow and blue Nubian house, but apart from that, has little of interest itself. The main attraction is situated on the opposite bank of the Nile, in the shape of the Temple of Soleb, one of Sudan's many overlooked relics from Pharonic times. We wanted to get over the Nile as early as possible, keen to avoid the stifling midday heat, but were ushered into a shaded courtyard and told to wait until the boatman was ready. We thought this was typical Sudanese bearacracy at work, but after an
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