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Published: September 8th 2016
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We rose half-an-hour early today to improve our chances of going up
Table Mountain– and it worked! Although we arrived at opening time (8:00), we were by no means the first visitors: into line at the base of the gondola, almost no wait, then into the large round pod. Signs warned us NOT to hold onto the rails or the walls – because the platform rotates, giving everyone a view in all directions and giving everyone a few moments with a “missing window” for great photos. What excitement as we rose high above the steep slope – then suddenly the rock face itself was almost within touching distance! Dramatic lesson in the power of maths to calculate the exact path for the gondola.
Steep only on the Cape Town side, Table Mountain roughly recedes on the far slope, part of the Coastal mountain range. Until a few days ago, the Cape area bush was being burnt up by wildfires threatening Cape communities. A burnt umber layer of haze still covered the city despite strong winds, especially at the top of the mountain. The views of the nearby Lion’s Head and other low peaks were starkly graphic, bright green foreground lit by
Boulders Penguin Colony
Never seen so many penguins! the morning sun. We walked along a few paths leading to viewpoints. Rather than taking the gondola, hikers can follow several paths for the strenuous ascent. And for the truly ambitious, overnight cabins are available for the five-day hike from Table Mountain to Cape Point, and they are fully booked for the next two years.
On our way by bus to Cape Point, we took a cheerful diversion to Boulders Penguin Colony, a nature reserve for the African Penguin - in decline because of human activity. Along the boardwalk through the huge grey boulders and fine white sand we could easily see the ridiculous but effective walk of the penguins. Without human interaction, they wandered from here to there, plopped down in shady corners, went for swims, and seemed to greet and chat with each other. To encourage colony growth, special plastic containers had been set up for nesting, back in the sparse bushes. Human activity was fun too, in the form of a nursery school group – probably about three or four years old. They were as curious about us as about the penguins. Predictably, we photographed them and showed them their photos; some were pros and posed
Oysters
You just have to try them very, very fresh! with great panache! The teachers were marvelous, gently rounding them up and settling them for their lunch.
Our lunch was special – because I suddenly learned to love oysters! Duane ordered two platters for us. Maybe the delicious flavour resulted from our restaurant being built right out over the water.
Our next destination was the Cape of Good Hope National Park. Duane drove us along the south point coast, commenting on the towns in a personal way, because he grew up and still lives in this area. The towns are focused on beach and fishing life, a favourite weekend spot for many in the city. People who have done well in business may even work during the week in Joburg, yet call Cape Town their main residence. The driving distance on the main highway is just over 700 km, and the flying time is a couple of hours.
As we approached the
Cape of Good Hope, the land flattened out for a considerable distance, devoid of trees in this windy place. As we approached the narrow access road, filled with parked cars, wild ostriches appeared right beside the traffic. Duane says they find it a lot easier to travel by
Cape of Good Hope
Crashing waves and thunderous surf! road, rather than through the tough low bushes. We took marvelous photos of the wind blown ostriches in the foreground and the turquoise and white sea in the background. Vasco da Gama originally called the point the “Terrible Cape”, but the Spanish King thought that was bad PR when recruiting sailors, so he renamed it. When we saw the pounding waves and churning undertows on this a calm sunny day, we could understand sailors’ fear of tackling this passage in any other weather.
I clambered over the rocks to find a bit of sand to collect. Even paddling in the water was impossible because of the rocks and foam spray. What there was of sand was mainly crushed white shells.
As we drove along the edge of the mountains to
Cape Point, we stopped near
Chapman’s Peak that had been engulfed by the wildfires a few days ago. The bushes were skeletons and the ground was burnt, a risk for floods during the coming winter. This is a 10-12 year natural cycle. Further on, Duane pointed out that the road clinging to the mountain side had been built at the cold join of the granite base and the sandstone heights.
In one place they built “half tunnels” (what we know as snow sheds) to protect against rock falls.
Cape Point is the acknowledged most south-westerly point of Africa; further on there is a point of rock jutting a bit further south. Technically that is where the Indian and Atlantic waters mix; Duane explained almost indignantly that the water on the east side of Cape Point can be ten degrees warmer than that on the west side, meaning that the waters mix here.
Cape Point is now quite a tourist attraction, with rock-constructed retaining walls and pathways at the base, also a tourist shop and restaurant, patronized by bus loads of people. Betsy and I took the funicular up to a height of land – by no means the top that was reached by steep pathways. The wind blew hard enough to affect our ability to stand still. If possible, the waves were even stronger than at Good Hope, throwing foam high into the air across hidden rock outcrops.
At the end of our journey, we rewound our drive through the coastal towns. On the way to our farewell dinner, Duane drove along the bay as we watched
Simon's Town
Living at the tip of Africa! the sun set red-orange into the sea. The houses and businesses with this view were magnificent, although Duane pointed out that the inhabitants had to endure the foghorn that occasionally sounded all night. A long stretch of park between the road and the beach was a public place for playing sports, such as football (soccer) and swimming, thus everyone could enjoy this beautiful scene. Our dinner was a “tasting menu”. The first two courses were set; the main course and dessert were personal choices. Each delicious dish was artfully created. I had my last serving of delicately prepared fresh fish. Sitting outside in the admittedly cooling air was delightful as we thought about returning to winter, except for Jack from California and Betsy from Hawaii.
">View video of penguins and kids.
Isabel Gibson
non-member comment
What a day!
Amazing scenery for your last day on tour. And a fabulous video of the penguins, who appear oblivious to the adoring (and sometimes noisy) crowds. Love the story about the Cape of Good Hope - showing that marketeers have always been with us, confounding the best efforts of operators to tell it like it is.