Kruger National Park: Wild and Wonderful


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Published: March 22nd 2007
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King of the JungleKing of the JungleKing of the Jungle

The lions are moving at night so it was tough to get good pictures. Saw 5 males and 2 females...close!
Kruger National Park: Wild and Wonderful March 16-22, 2007

Two huge male lions lay sprawled in the middle of the road, just as the sun was setting. The larger of the two, lifted his shaggy maned head, opened the biggest jaws I had ever seen and roared…then roared again. Flashbulbs fired from several safari tour trucks, but we just looked at each other in our little red Chevy rental car (a piece of junk!)…we needed to get by them and back to the Paul Kruger gate before 6, and that was 10 minutes ago! The roaring lion ceased, lay his head down on the pavement, and we reluctantly (and carefully) drove around him and onward.

Kruger National Park is unlike any other park we have ever been to, and it was a destination for us at the very early stages of planning this trip. It has not disappointed us.
There are many ways the park is unique, not the least among them is roaring/sleeping lions on the road. The park is 20 000 sq km in size (about the size of Wales) and while there are many ways to see the park, unlike our other destinations, walking is
Burchell's Bush Lodge ChaletBurchell's Bush Lodge ChaletBurchell's Bush Lodge Chalet

A beautiful peaceful place to spend a week...and just minutes to the Paul Kruger gate.
not one of them. In fact, even if the temperatures of between 35 and 40+ were not a deterrent to walking, there are strict rules that you cannot even get out of your car, anywhere but at the few designated ‘camps’ within the park boundaries.

We stayed in Burchell’s Bush Lodge, just at the doorstep of the Paul Kruger gate. It was a week of timeshare we traded into and we were delighted with it. Our one bedroom full kitchen chalet had air con (thank goodness) and full amenities. It was set in the most tranquil bush setting, and we often saw monkeys, various antelope and beautiful birds as we sat on our patio/barbecue area. We were definitely not roughing it.

Each day we drove ourselves into the park and simply drove around the myriad of roads, game spotting. We also did three paid safari drives, booked through the National Park staff (at a fraction of the cost of the ones offered through the private firms). There was a slow easy rhythm to the days, the driving speed being an average of 20 km /hr in the park, and the non driving time being spent relaxing, working on
Safari TruckSafari TruckSafari Truck

Hec was ready and waiting...and it was only 4:30 a.m.! Our night drives had bigger vehicles and each time we went we saw different things. Booked through the park staff.
the photos, reading or resting. The pace of Africa here is slow, and punctuated with moments of excitement like the roaring lions, or the day we say the leopard ambling along the roadside beside us, or the time a huge herd of more than 30 elephants crossed the road directly in front of our car, or the first sighting of a baby zebra, or the awesome sight of a giant giraffe, kneeling to drink at one of the scarce water holes. Many of these sightings were when we were just driving ourselves around. Others were part of the early morning guided drive (pick up at 4:30 am!!!) which began in total darkness and allowed us to watch the park slowly come to life, or on the night drives when huge spotlights were used from the safari vehicles to spot the ‘eyes’ in the darkness.

Our guide on two trips was Shadrak, the most knowledgeable and affable guide we could have hoped for. He spotted things we would have missed, and then he delighted in sharing his extensive knowledge about the mating habits, gestation periods, and unique attributes of the species. He knew not only about the big game, but
Elephants coming at you!Elephants coming at you!Elephants coming at you!

This was the most numerous of the Big 5...and we saw dozens of them.
about the snakes (we saw a Mozambique spitting Cobra, a python and an eagle snake…thankfully from the vehicle only!), the small species and all the local birds! (Hec was in heaven). He told us happily that he works 26 days of the month, and that he loves his job! It shows and we felt lucky to have him share his world with us.

Hector and I agreed that despite my usual tendency to be long winded in these blog entries, the best way to share our Kruger experience is through fewer words and more pictures. We leave Kruger tomorrow, moving on to the Drakensburg Mountain Range and the small country of Lesotho. We hope to return one day and perhaps share this incredible piece of nature with our children and grandchildren.



Additional photos below
Photos: 25, Displayed: 24


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A herd crossing the road.A herd crossing the road.
A herd crossing the road.

There were at least 30 of them..all sizes. (we decided to give them the right of way)! They stay with the mothers for about 3 years.
Big ears!Big ears!
Big ears!

They fan their ears when they are angry but most often as a means of keeping cool. We saw them stripping the leaves off trees with their trunks, spraying themselves with water and sand. They have one dominant tusk, just as we have a dominant hand!
Water BuffaloWater Buffalo
Water Buffalo

These are also considered the Big 5...although big, they are not nearly as interesting as some other animals.
White RhinocerousWhite Rhinocerous
White Rhinocerous

These are huge! One night we saw a family ...mom, dad and young one. The baby lay down and rested his head on one leg...it was so cute to see, but too dark for a good photo.
The elusive leopardThe elusive leopard
The elusive leopard

We were so lucky to see this guy...twice! Leopards move at night and are hard to see...many people we spoke to had not yet seen one! This guy walked right beside us on the edge of the road!
Thirsty!Thirsty!
Thirsty!

It was incredible to watch this guy bend down for a drink. They are most vulnerable to being killed by lions when doing this. We were so close to him...it was really exciting!
Long necks!Long necks!
Long necks!

Amazingly, the giraffe only has 7 neck vertebrae the same as humans!
ZebraZebra
Zebra

We loved seeing these guys too.
Baby ZebraBaby Zebra
Baby Zebra

Isn't that the cutest face?
Hungry HipposHungry Hippos
Hungry Hippos

It is a bit hard to see, but there are 3 of them here...with just their heads/eyes showing. One guy is resting his head on anothers behind! We heard them snorting several times.
Hippo out of waterHippo out of water
Hippo out of water

These guys are soooo big,...and they actually move pretty fast out of water.
Warthog familyWarthog family
Warthog family

These guys are so ugly they are cute. Note the baby walking on his knees to get closer to the grass.
Not even a pretty face!Not even a pretty face!
Not even a pretty face!

The warthog close up...a face only a mother could love!
HyenaHyena
Hyena

These guys are scavengers...nasty looking!
ImpalaImpala
Impala

There are literally thousands of these in herds trhoughout the park.
CrocCroc
Croc

Saw several of these. They can go several years without eating if conditions require it.
Mother baboon and baby undersideMother baboon and baby underside
Mother baboon and baby underside

Baboons and monkeys can be nuisances but this was neat to see.
Vervet monkeysVervet monkeys
Vervet monkeys

These guys are so cute...but if you leave your chalet door open they will come in and steal your food!
PythonPython
Python

Africa has deadly snakes...and we saw 4 of them! This is a python, but we also saw the puff adder and mozambique spitting cobra (shoots venom several meters). Walking back to the chalet at night I would stamp my feet to scare any potential slthering visitors!
Yellow Billed Horn BillYellow Billed Horn Bill
Yellow Billed Horn Bill

Even a reluctant birder couldn't help but be impressed by the amazing bird life here!! Hec recorded over 50 new birds this week!
Lilac breasted rollerLilac breasted roller
Lilac breasted roller

They are so different and colourful!


22nd March 2007

Loved All the pictures
Well, now that I have to run home and change my underwear!! Your lion story was scary.... I personally wouldn't have ventured around the furry ferocious fellas!!! Or FFF as I like to call them.... but bravery was not in my ancestory ....... I thought you knew that!! hee hee... I just loved all the photos and I can't believe that you were so lucky to see all these beautiful creatures!!!!! Amazing adventures and stories!! xx
22nd March 2007

WOW WOW
Bet you had trouble culling those pics Nanc!!! You guys are just having the most amazing time....I guess it is now a case of...oh well another lion! ( yawn) Love you heaps XX M
23rd March 2007

Kruger at last....
I am getting more excited by the minute! I love your pictures...hope we are as fortunate to see as many animals as you have. We will be entering Kruger first thing in the morning. After Kruger we are off to Mozambique...now that really scares me! Hope to see you when you return...we can swap stories! Nathalie
2nd April 2007

memories
wow, Hi Nancy and Hector, your pics take me back to 1963 when I was one year in the bush in Zambia. It is truly a fantastic country but has some huge human problems as you know. good luck and take care best wishes Peter
10th April 2007

Different to the Prairies
Hello to you both. Have been following your blog entries and absolutely wonderful. The photos of lions etc are great. We have just come back from being East of the Rockies on the Prairies.Delighted to be able to see the grassed areas before we had 10 inches of snow.Temp down to _12.Decided to move back West. Keep enjoying the experience
19th April 2008

Kruger Parkl
We are travellling down to KNP next month to Burchell's Bush after an absence of almost 18 years and you have rekindled memories of old. You have wetted our appetite and we cant wait to get there - thank you so much for this.

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